Dude shove off, stop acting all High and mighty here with your reply a whole 9 days later.
Surprised he didn’t come back with graphs and pie charts showing how many tournament winners would of won even more if they switched from fight stick to hitbox because it’s a scientific fact that it’s the best :o
Dpad =/= hit box.
Analog =/= Arcade lever.
anyone know what happened to the Namco Stick appreciation thread? I searched for it and just found old ass threads. I’m trying to figure out how to hack a ps1/2 pad to the start, select portion of the Namco PCB.
thanks, now i have to dig thru that thread.
Just wanted to ask, how durable are Tek Innovation cases? I was about to buy a Panzer, but I spotted the Tek case in a video on Youtube and checked it out. $55 starting price compared to ~$90 sounds like a good deal.
Acutator do i want a bigger one
Hey guys. I’ve been looking into getting a ChronusMAX for my ps4 so I can use my PS3 arcade sticks (MC TE R1 & R2) now question is, do they work?
Does it works, yes or so I heard.
Would I recommend it, no.
I’d recommend getting this instead of the tek case if you’re worried about durability and can’t afford a panzer. They’re $60 now, come with reportedly decent parts, can accept sanwa or Seimitsu parts, and it supports 360/ps3 out of the box.
I already have a Qanba Q1, and I prefer the either of the Sega layouts, or Noir, which I don’t currently have. I was looking at the Panzer and the Tek case because they have the option to change the layout.
Ah, that limits things. I recall seeing a few decent deals on the Hori HRAP EX (which has that sort of layout) in the trading outlet here recently. Maybe someone else here can vouch for the Tek case, I haven’t used one myself.
Why wouldn’t you reccomendation it if it works? Lag issues?
- Reports of the device breaking USB ports
- Interfering with player 2 on the console
- Banned from tournaments
- Still need a Sony Dual Shock 4 controller and a USB bluetooth module for setup and use. You also have to sync the controller to the Chronus, beaning you got to resync the controller for normal console use.
- Not as cost effective or reliable as a well done dual-mod
Oh wow, quite Some negatives. Thank you for that! I don’t want my USB port broken:/ everything else there would be somewhat tolerable but that? Nooppee.
Hi, i’m in the process of building my first arcade stick, but i don’t know which one is the right thickness for the top panel. I plan on putting a 2mm plexi on top with a wood panel underneath, and i want to use as joystick a Crown CWJ-303FJ, which uses a standard mounting plate, needs the same 24 mm hole and that can be mounted on any stick that has a sanwa jlf.
So the question is, how thick the wood panel needs to be?
Slagcoin says you need 23mm-24 mm between the bottom of the ball top and the top of the control panel for any sanwa, but i don’t have the parts with me to test for myself, and i don’t know how to translate this info into the choice of the top panel wood.
Yes, this makes sense, the problem is that i don’t have the lever with me right now, while i want to buy the wood panels and work on them now, while i’m on holiday, so i was asking to know if you have experience with that. Anyway, i have the metal plate of a madcatz SE and the mounting of the stick is ~8 mm under the surface, but it doesn’t look enough for me. Also, i want to pick the right panel because i don’t want to do any shaving after, because i’m certain it wouldn’t come out even.