Oh it was just trying to deal with the busted-ass screws to open the thing in the first place. Nearly tore up my hands trying to open it up with a precision screwdriver.
Got it all to work! Thanks again
I know DPDT is the most common switch for people to use when dual modding. A local shop doesn’t have DPDT switches, but they do carry 4PDT. Would those be sufficient? Do I need to do anything about the extra two poles are can I just leave them be?
EDIT: Also, are there any consequences to using a cool touch soldering iron? And do I need soldering flux?
4PDT is fine. Don’t have to use the other poles.
Never used a cool touch iron.
Where would I even begin to look to have somebody on these boards do a mod for me? I had somebody local do a PS360+ and Seimitsu parts mod for an old Agetec Green Goblin about a year and a half ago, but his work was really shoddy. The LS-32 doesn’t have enough room in the case, so the bottom of the shaft scrapes against the plate on the bottom. I know for a fact that people have been modding Seimitsu LS-32’s into Agetec sticks for over a decade without this problem, but I lack the expertise to do this myself. Pretty sure he made a mistake somewhere along the line. Been on these boards for ages and I know how people get when you click “New Thread” so I thought I’d ask y’all first. Thanks!
Thanks Vicko. What about the flux? Never heard of anyone using flux for dual modding, but my dad was like “your solder won’t stick if you don’t have flux”, so I want to be sure.
Appreciate the reply. I guess I’m not really looking for a local modder, just somebody experienced with Agetec cases who would be willing to take a job fixing this one for me. I’ll ask over there too, but if anyone who reads this knows somebody who might fit what I’m looking for, PM me.
Hey guys, I was able to get my hands on a brand new MadCatz TE-S+ and have been looking into adding full PS4 compatability. With no solution around the 8 minute timeout currently in sight, I plan on padhacking a Hori FC4 but need some help/confirmation. There’s the upcoming Brook Fightboard PCB but no results yet from testing and a HFC4 won’t get firmware locked out.
In terms of USB switching, I can go with an Imp v2 or a DPDT switch. I’m leaning towards an Imp v2 so I don’t have to cut/locate a switch on the stick.
As for wiring everything up. I plan on soldering wires from the HFC4 to go into the row of quick disconnects for buttons similar to how this guidedid it. If I’m understanding correctly, I’d also have to solder/splice wires from:
 the HFC4’s joystick inputs to the joystick harness
 the HFC4’s PS4 button to the Home/Guide as in Step 9 of the guide above
 the MadCatz USB to the Imp
 the HFC4 USB to the Imp
I don’t really need the PS3 side of the HFC4 so I’ll leave the switch on the PS4 side. Same goes for the DP/LS/RS switch, I’ll keep it on DP.
As for the shoulder button toggle, I want to leave it so that the right shoulder buttons are L1/L2.
Is there anything I’m missing or should be on the look out for?
Solder to the PCB rather than solder to the distro. Makes it a lot cleaner and saves you from splicing. That shit looks nasty and I’ve had to correct a few of those.
You can wire the system switch to the DP/LS/RS switch of the TE-S+ so you can use it in ps3 mode as well. Make sure to put a diode on there.
Leave the shoulder switch and the DP switch alone as you stated. I usually glue those down so they don’t move accidentally.
Your solder should already have a flux core. If it doesn’t then you will need to use flux.
One thing I forgot to ask was regarding the Imp v2 pdf guide. Looking at the table on the 2nd page, my setup would be a Basic Setup since I plan on using the Home/Guide button on the panel. Wherever it says PS3, I am going to consider it as PS4. However, as for the Solder Jump A, B and C, what do they look like and how would I go about shorting them with solder as the guide states?
You will see it when you have it in front of you. Pretty straight forward.
Thanks dp on wakeup, that’s exactly what’s happening. My latches are similar but they are mounted on top rather then the side of the control panel slot. I’ll consider replacing the latches, I think they are just loose from wear.
Worst Soldering Iron Ever
Never use a cool touch soldering iron on sensitive electronics. They use electricity instead of head for solder bonding.
More on the Subject
So a non-arcade related TT question. The Xbone adapter for Rock Band 4 doesn’t let you use wired legacy controllers so my Xplorer is basically useless, except for the fact that I have extra wireless RB2 guitars. How do I gut those and put the PCB into the Xplorer, and best case scenario continue to use the USB to wire the thing instead of needing to Dremel in a battery compartment.
Are you trying to use the older controllers with Rock Band 4?
Yeah. The wireless RB2 controllers that I have are both for 360, so they’re compatible with the Xbone game when using the little adapter.
i got madcatz TES Xbox 360 (chunli) with PS360+, i used alternative hook up on PS360+ to the buttons and
usb cable is solder on PS360+ , i dont used neutrik
i used leds player (led hook up) & home button too
now i got another one hori FC4 pcb , can i connected FC4 buttons to ps360+ hook up?
do i can use LS DP RS for switch PS360+ / FC4? if yes how?
thanks again kinds regards
Does the MC Cthulhu work on Win 10?