Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

My friend wants me to build her a TEK Case with Love Live artwork similar to my Hanayo Koizumi Razer Atrox (http://imgur.com/luHbCQI). Her favourite unit is Lily White, but she can’t decide on whether she wants Nozomi, Umi or Rin as the center since she loves all 3 of them. So I made artwork for all 3 so she can just change the artwork whenever she feels like it. Problem is, we don’t know what colour acrylic to order for the TEK Case to match all three artworks. Can you guys give me some opinions on what TEK Case colours to get? Thanks!

Nozomi: http://m.imgur.com/5LUSmyA
Umi: http://m.imgur.com/MotRplg
Rin: http://m.imgur.com/D5nUfKX

You can always go for clear plexy

@Vicko & @Darksakul
thanks for u’re answer & time
do u have link to dual mod guide ? please (i’m new on dual modding)
i think auto-detect it does not exist
so do i need imp V2 & DPDT to switch between ps360+ & FC4?
thx again

The RAP4 Kai doesn’t do the diode thing when doing a dual mod with its PCB, correct?

Hey guys, I’m wondering how the Gamerfinger, Spark and Flash repro compare to the original Flash and ASCII optical. Really curiosity more than anything. Optical seems cool but I’m still getting used to normal joysticks…

Here you go, its not completely up to date but its the most comprehensive guide for dual modding here.

Does anyone know how to put custom artwork on the Qanba Q1? I’ve been searching for a while and I know they used to sell the Qanba Q1 plexi glass without the artwork on it but seems like they have stopped doing that. I saw a post here that said they had sanded off the artwork on Q1’s plexi glass but I don’t know if that will ruin the entire look for the artwork. Can anyone help me out? Thanks.

Yes, you need diodes as stated in the Hori RAP4 thread.

A while back I sent an original Q1 plexi (as well as one for the Eightarc Onyx/Pearl and Qanba Q2 Pro/Glow) to @arthong at Tek-Innovations.com aka Art’s Hobbies. He’s really busy so there’s no telling when, but at some point he should be able to offer Q1 plexis to the general public.

I have a Hori Hayabusa and I was wondering, is there some sort of mod I could do to reduce the engage distance on it?

Plan on installing a padhacked 360 fightpad + Imp in a PS3/4 TE2.
Not going to run into any surprises there far as wiring that up am I?

no surprises as long as you follow the dual mod guide for the TE2

you should use a MKX pad so you’ll have xb1 as well

I tried installing PS14KNs in my TE2, but the left most button on the bottom row is too close to the joystick mount, so it gets in the way of the nut. Is there a trick to getting them to fit? And if not, are clear Seimitsu snap ins brittle?

Slide nut under joystick mount
hover over hole
insert button
screw on nut

if the nut doesn’t fit under the mount, bend the mount with a pair of pliers or something

The kowal actuator works, you’ll need to round off the edges of the larger cylinder though.

I imagine this info is in a thread somewhere but I’m having trouble finding it:

I just got a TE2 and installed the LED PCB but I’d like to also add an LED to the balltop if it’s not beyond my capablilites or prohibitively expensive.
I don’t need any additional functionality beyond lighting up when the stick is on, same as the Mad Catz LED PCB does.

Exactly what parts do I need?

Is there a walkthrough somewhere of the process?

I know I need a hollow shaft and the LED itself but I don’t know if I need anything else or what I need to do wiring-wise to get power to the LED.

Thanks, would the delrin actuator at Paradise Arcade Shop work too? http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/paradise-arcade/981-1mm-oversized-jlf-delrin-actuator-lt.html

You need a hollow shaft for the joystick, a ball top that is clear/transparent or would allow light to shine though, a 3mm LED if you want to use a normal sized ball top. With a RGB LED you need to go to a larger 45mm ball top.

What else you would need depends on what you want done.
[edit] Just saw your post on the Paradise Arcade thread, Susan and Brian will help you out.

I think so

That would tighten up the engage, but not the throw. Actually, that particular one you linked to is deigned to make the throw even longer- it’s a good choice for the “Operation” method of doing one’s goddamndest not to hit the gate at all (the ideal choice for @Darksakul )

The Kowal one is larger at both the lower section that hits the switches and the upper section that hits the gate.

you can fit an rgb LED inside a standard size balltop