Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

We don’t have to use console. We’ve used them on PS3 in the past and use them on PC now but @Darksakul is correct. The pedals and shifter need to plugged into the PCB inside the steering wheel and the 1 USB output signal handles everything to the console or PC.

You’re right that RJ45 isn’t ideal and would be prone to easy break.

The AC power has a small standard male plug that leads to an external power supply box with a detachable infinity power connector (like the one for PSX/PS2/PS3/DC/XBox/Laptops/etc). That doesn’t matter too much to me either though, as I’d be doing the same solution with the AC power as I would to the shifter and pedals.

The problem with the din connectors is it would be difficult to mount the female end on the plastic steering wheel base and I don’t see the din connectors as rugged as an ATX power connector.

You did mention DE-9 and that’s a big possibility. A few Amp Up connectors could work as well.

It all comes down to 2 things:

  1. Is it rugged
  2. Does it have a panel mount for a male or female option?

I’m really bad with Mouser or Digikey because they just have so many options and it takes me forever to find something that seems legit and then I have to struggle to find the opposite Male/Female version.
This might end up being one of those I suck it up and spend a few hours to find what I need but I thought I’d at least give it a shot asking in case any of you guys have had to do similar and had a solid solution.

So I’m currently using a Qanba Q4RAF. How is it in terms of PS4 compatibility? Are there good lagless converters, or will I need a new stick entirely?

It works in PS3 mode on Skullgirls, MKX, and USFIV as is. Does not work with BlazBlue, Guilty Gear, Injustice, or SFV beta.

If you want PS4 with that existing stick, you’re looking at either putting in a new PCB (Brook PCB or padhack of Hori Fighting Commander Pro 4), or using an adapter (Brook).
Threads on the Brook PCB, Brook adapters, and padhacking PS4 pads including the Hori FCP4 are all on the first or second page at the moment here on SRK Tech Talk.

I Dual Modded a Q2 before.

The way the Qanba Q2 Glow works The LEDs only work if the Qanba PCB is active.

The way to get the LEDs to work for both boards is a little more convoluted than just a simple Dual-mod hack
First you have to remove the LEDs from the Qanba side of the stick. You can have the lights always on with a switch to turn them off or you can get a LED controller to replicate any cool effects you had before hand.

I was worried that would be the case. Thanks for the reply, that’s definitely saved me some time!

Hey Tech Talk, got some questions. I have a HORI RAP Pro V Kai for 360/XB1/PC but I want to add the functionality of a PS360+ to it. Found some other threads with similar mods, but would still like clarification. Basically the setup I’d like to accomplish is the ability to use a single RJ45 output passthrough for the default HORI PCB and the PS360+.

The main question is for the 360/XB1 Kai, but I happen to have a VLX Kuro myself. Would I just have to follow the guide above more or less to add a PS360+ to it? Hope I’m posting this in the right place. Thanks in advance!

I got a .187 to 5-pin Conversion Harness and with some tinkering I finally installed my decade-old Sanwa JLW in my TE.

Feels nice and all, but the short shaft feels weird. Is this how it’s supposed to be, or should I look for another mounting plate? The one I have is flat.

EDIT: Guess I should get this KOWAL Japan S Plate Converter.

EDIT 2: Wait, do I even need to get that? Maybe I was just used to the length of the Hayabusa.

Running into a weird problem with the PS3/PS4 TE2 and MKX pad dual mod I was asking about a few pages ago.

Have everything wired up to the best of my knowledge correctly, used a meter to get the solder points of the Madcatz board as I couldn’t find one online.

Came up with this

Used the MKX pad guide found here on SRK and the Imp “basic setup” guide on the Godlike Controls shop

Wiring is a bit of a mess, but this is how it looks in the end

When I plug it in to test it, it never leaves Microsoft mode weather I’m holding the PS button or not. It’s almost always stuck in a non functional X1 mode, except for when I hold the PS button and it goes into 360 mode. 360 mode works as normal so long as I hold the PS button and it switches back to X1 when I release the button.

The obvious answer is I switched PS3/PS4 selection and PS button when I wired them to the MKX, and I checked and double checked that that was not the case.
I don’t think I pinned out the turbo panel incorrectly, but it’s possible I suppose.

Wild shots in the dark include:
Does the TE2 turbo panel operate at some weird voltage that doesn’t play nice with the Imp?
Am I being too smart for my own good trying to hook up the MKX system selector to the TE2’s and that’s giving me problems for some reason?

Got the tap and die yesterday, the tap was a bit useless since it was too short to turn without hitting the insides of the HRAP, but I was able to turn the die with a pair of pliers and successfully cut the threads, then installed the Seimitsu stick. So now I can finally play with a Seimitsu, wish I had looked into this earlier as it does indeed seem to be better for non-fighters.

dont use guide to switch

Wait… where did you wire up the system mode switch from the mkx pad? did you use a diode?

So if I wire it up with the instructions for Start+Select it will work fine?

I directly connected what I believed to be where the PS3/PS4 switch was on the turbo panel. When it was high it was PS4, when it was shorted to ground it was PS3. Connected that to the spot on the pad marked System Mode (high is 360, low is X1)

I couldn’t find shit for tutorials regarding this particular mod, so I sort of winged everything.

what are you using to switch? Impv2? use A or something not S S or G

ignore the small yellow circle


feel dumb

Guess I posted my questions in the wront thread, so I’ll ask here instead:

Sorry if I missed that subject or post to the wrong place, but I wanna build an Arcade stick for my retro consoles.

I haven’t decided yet on the case, but I already wanna settle on the electronics. I thought I would use some Toodle’s love, but not only does he seem MIA but also the boards doesn’t do Master System and Megadrive, which is a deal breaker for me (although, I love my Kitty inside my VLX).

Is there a multiboard that does it all (NES/SNES/MS/MD/PC Engine/Saturn/DC/PS1/PS2/Xbox)?

Or do I have to switch to a DB mod on the stick, along with padhacks in external boxes (a padhack per box) that I then connect to the stick through DB terminal?

And why Toodle doesn’t support SMS and MD, by the way?

OK, finally found some answers. ^^

So, it is because of Ethernet. Since it seems that we won’t get an update to the Cthulu board, I will use external boxes. :frowning:

The Universal PCB which Toodles discontinued along time ago in favor of the Cthulhu.

Links are broken but it is possible to fabricate your own UPCB, Toodles did release the source code and semantics for the board.

You make it like you resign your fate. Going with native hardware for support is never a bad idea when it comes to compatibility.

Because the way SMS and MD works compared to everything else

Almost every other game pad from the NES forwards uses some kind of serial connector bus.
The Sega Master System controller works like alot of the 9 pin DB controllers do (like the Atari 2600 joysticks), there is no electronics. The DB 9 pins goes directly to each pin.
Technically you don’t need a PCB for SMS, just like if you want to support the Atari 2600 or the Neo Geo.

Note the Sega Master System only has a D-pad and 2 buttons (no Start or Select)
The Sega Genesis/Mega Drive in keeping with Sega making there consoles backwards compatible (yes the SMS is backwards compatible with an older system, and the MD is backwards compatible with SMS games) The 3 Button Sega Genesis controller uses a weird scheme to get 2 extra buttons to work on a controller design that should not allow for those extra 2 pins. There is a extra select line that when held high does certain buttons and when held low does others. 6 Button Sega Genesis controllers hacks the hack (it uses multiplexers) to get 3 more buttons to work on a set up that was originally designed as a clone of the Atari 2600 control scheme.

This is also why the SMS and the MD controllers work on the Atari 2600 and other consoles that use the same controller scheme.

Atari 2600 Pinout

SMS Pinout

Sega Genesis/Mega Drive Pinout

Thank you for the answers.

I want to keep something as clean and simple as possible. The external boxes solution works but lot of stuff around.

But the link you gave me is just a wank in heaven, if you allow me to say so. Seems I just have to build it and find a nice body for my joystick.
Thank you very much, that made my day! :smiley:

I used a hair dryer to heat up my SE so I can peel the artwork off so I can replace it later. Problem is I didn’t let it heat long enough, so the art peeled off and left some lumps. Anyone know a good technique to remove the residue? I googled it and got something involving soaking the panel in veggie oil and then washing it to clean it off, but will the SE metal panel rust at all if I do that?


An update:

The stick works fine via all USBs on the system and properly sorts itself out as part of the x360 controller heirachy (eg it will light up the second segment light around the xhome button if it’s the second controller even pre-windows bootup). The only drawback is that - I think - just down to the specific device name/device id not being known to windows, it will detect as a “Real Arcade Pro.VX” and then not find a driver for that specific named device. Device Manager > find device > properties > driver > update driver > browse my computer > let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer > xbox 360 controller for windows version sorts it out.