Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)


#3282

I have desoldering wick. My bad, but still not recognizing a chip I can desolder. xP Here’s pics of top/bottom (http://imgur.com/a/Ea6If).

Should’ve clarified that this is the limited edition white and red PS3 SFxT Fightstick Pro. Has a white turbo panel housing and 4 additional player LEDs above the home button. Previous post has pics to show how the home button doesn’t line up when swapped. I can see how a normal TE can swap between PS3/360.

Edit-1: Last resort would be to paint another housing white and use an undamaged 360 turbo panel PCB. Really want the original look of the stick to remain intact. Drilling holes for buttons is also a possibility but not one I want to do on a LE stick.


#3283

Okay, you can’t desolder it on your PCB as its that black blob on the back. The Chip is directly mounted to the PCB without a Shell for that chip and its been covered in Epoxy.

My suggestions

  1. is to find that burnt VCC pad, follow it’s trade to the next solder point and solder there.
  2. You could carefully cut only the traces to that epoxy blob, and only the traces that are going to that blob.
  3. OR finding a Xbox 360 version that Fits.

There were someone that was making blank inserts for the guide area on Mad Catz sticks where you can mount your own mini buttons but I never saw what became of it.


#3284

Just cut the traces


#3285

Anyone know if the Xbone/360 version of the HRAP Hayabusa (the one with the red artwork) is common ground?


#3286

If you look at the Focus attack’s website it looks like you can wire a button to “mode” and that changes the joystick input. That might solve your lack of directional input.


#3287

I would have people read this thread first and see what sticks and PCBs are supported


#3288

zero delay pcb’s ps3 protocol is that it fakes itself as a wireless controller. when you plug it into a ps3 it is ID’d as a dualshock3. it doesnt work on sfv ps4 because it thinks your trying to connect a ds3/wireless controller which it doesnt support.


#3289

I ordered a couple of them without checking here first. Hopefully I’m not completely screwed. I can always play on PC until I can put a better board in there at least.


#3290

Which version? I am hearing that a particular version does work, the ZD Rematch.


#3291

so I got my stick that I’m gonna mod and put an hfc4 in. should I use the cables that came with the stick or is it better to get new ones? it’s a mad catz brawl stick btw. also, anything else I need for the padhack and installing everything?


#3292

Stock usb cable is fine if you’re not using a pass through. Can’t remember if there’s a grommet or not, if so, use it in the cord notch. Either way, use the posts for the usb cable to prevent if from being tugged on at the pcb.


#3293

there’s a thing you can wrap the usb cable around and zip tie it which I’ll use. the button wires seem kinda crappy, if I wanted to get better quality ones which ones would you recommend?. thanks.


#3294

There’s nothing wrong with the wires, though I would use a ground chain instead of wiring each ground signal to the pad.


#3295

im talking about the zd rematch. the one with ps button support and ps2 protocol


#3296

So im trying to use the Turbo and home button from a PS3 TE-S with another board. I just want to use the buttons. So i wired them up like this picture here, but it doesnt work with my board.

This isnt my pic, but i circled the only 3 points i used. With DMM, i dont get continuity beep, but the resistance goes down when the press the buttons. How should i be setting this up aside from soldering directly to the contacts?


#3297

Give it power and that should do it (red wire on the bottom of the pic)


#3298

Hi guys,
I’m looking at the te2+ when it’s open. What is this white wire? I haven’t seen this befor


#3299

I assume for the touch panel


#3300

It’s possible. It feels very flimsy. I don’t even know how I could connect it back if it came out. It came loose a bit while I was playing with it


#3301

I’ve been using a JLF with the Kowal actuator mod for a while now but I read that overtime it will damage/bend the microswitches over time. Knowing that now, I’m considering just getting a Seimitsu to not have deal with modding and wearing stuff down quicker than you should be.

I’m loving the throw distance on the JLF with that mod, does anybody know if there is a Seimitsu model with a smaller throw than that?