Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)



Thank you so much @PresidentCamacho, I finally have a working arcade stick on my PC/PS3!!


I was messing around in training on USF4 on my hrap kai and I noticed after a while my mp/mk buttons started acting up, they wouldn’t register like a third of the time and if I tried to plink or hit two buttons at once they would straight up not register at all. I unplugged it and plugged it back in and it immediately worked fine, just wondering if there might be a problem with the pcb or usb or something, only happened once so far but i’d rather it not happen again and i’m wondering if this is a problem anyone has experience with?


Stopped by Radio Shack and bought a new Soldering Iron and a tip cleaner. Are there any other supplies I should be looking at from them? Considering I plan to make some sticks or die trying, any heads up wold be appreciated.

Dremmel manual stated I use compressed air for cleaning it, can I use the cans of dust remover spray for it? Seems like there wouldn’t be a problem but I’d rather ask.


Momentary switches and dual pole-dual throw (DPDT) toggle switches are handy to have around.


I just finished making some custom fightstick art, and I just have a few general questions before I go off and get it printed:

I would like to probably change my artwork again in the future most likely, so would the screws/buttons be enough to keep the artwork in or do I need to apply adhesive? Also what kind of paper should I get it printed on? I was thinking maybe card stock or laminated but I’m not sure which would be the best?


I asked this in the UD USB Decoder thread but thought I would ask it here.

Is there a list of currently supported ps3/360/usb supported devices that the decoder works with?
I got one of these and have it set up. But for some reason my decoder only recognizes 360 controls. It does not recognize ps3 controls such as the toodles chtulu, inpin converter or ps360+ booted in ps3 mode. Any idea why and how I can fix this? I think I need to refresh the firmware. But the instructions for doing so are a bit confusing to me.

@Darksakul I think you mentioned earlier you had trouble updating the firmware. The instructions mention something about a boot loader application and a firmware file. Were do I get these from? Any help would be appreciated.

Also, what would be the best way to check how much latency is introduced when a convertor is made from one of these?

Undamned's USB Decoders (USB to JAMMA, etc.)!
Undamned's USB Decoders (USB to JAMMA, etc.)!

Not yet. Still need to put one together.

I’ve personally tested both MC Cthulhu and PS360+ in PS3 mode. No idea why it’s not working for you. Unless you bought yours from me aeons ago or you bought an old one used from someone else, it’s definitely not a result of old firmware. If you do want to try updating it just to cross that off your list of things to try, download one of the manuals (firmware update is same for all) and the firmware/program file here:

There is no simple answer. My converter does its job in about 1ms, but you have to factor in the entire chain:

Input controller -> UD-USB Decoder -> Encoder PCB (pad hack, whatever)

I’ve seen input controllers range from ~1ms to ~14ms. If your encoder PCB is not USB based (Playstation 2, for example), I think the encoding time is probably pretty fast (maybe even negligible).


What’s the general consensus on the best Xbox 360 PCB to padhack now?

Its been years since brawl pads have been long out of stock locally so my question I’d locally if you needed a pad what would be your best bet going to walmart, target, GameStop, etc.


Rock candy pads. Haven’t done one myself, but word here is that the triggers don’t need inverted.


So vinyl dye on sanwa rims. Is there any sort of gloss coat or something I need to sand off beforehand? Anything else I should know besides numerous thin coats, and wash the plastic beforehand?


All I know is make sure it’s clean and dry and that it’s real Vinyl dye and not that Krylon or Rust-Oleum stuff etc that’s not real and will wear off over time unless you clear/gloss coat etc


I am about to place order the parts of my first arcade stick. I have some final questions and make sure i don’t miss anything. If i do miss anything or buy something wrong, i have to bear another 2-3 weeks of shipping time :frowning: Also please consider this is a poor man’s build. I would like buying lots of different color parts but right know i just need a quality stick to play.
The parts i will order:
LS-58-01-C-MS 1x
OBSN-30 10x
LS-56 spring
e-clip for backup
So, Anything missing?

Now the questions:
1-Should i buy bolts and screws?
2-Couldn’t find octo gate for ls-58 in akishop. But there is this: LS-56 Round Gate Is this an octo gate?
3-I will sacrifice a cheapo controller and use it’s pcb. I am not sure how many buttons i should buy. Other than standart 10 buttons it has “Turbo”, “Auto”, “Clear” buttons. What do they do and should wire these buttons to new stick?
I would appreciate any other suggestions too.

Edit: Is this pcb any good?


One final question, I know that Neutrik D-type chassis fit in a 24mm hole, but what’s the size for the screws?

  1. If you’re building the case yourself, you’ll need them at some point.

  2. Yes, that’s the octo gate for the 56/58.

  3. I would recommend 11 buttons in case you want to use it with a console later. 8 action buttons, start, select, and home/guide. I would also recommend that you use 24mm buttons for the last 3 (start, select, home) to save space. Don’t worry about hooking up turbo/auto/slow/etc unless you want them- nobody uses that stuff anyways.

  4. That pcb should work fine, though I do recall a few users having trouble with usf4 on steam with it (he might have been using a Mac,i don’t remember for sure). PC compatibility often seems to be a crapshoot.


I am planning on modifying a Madcatz TE S top panel to allow for the mounting of a Myoungshin Fanta lever, and had a quick question about removing the original Japanese mounting plate from the panel.

I am assuming that the mounting plate is welded only at the spots circled in red in the image below. If I were to drill those spots out, would I be able to remove the mount without too much difficulty?


After removing the plate, I will widen the original hole for the joystick so as to fit the collar for the Fanta, and drill new holes to mount the Korean Lever. I’ll also need to use some kind of spacers to mount the stick at the right height, but that should be simple enough.

Have any of you made this particular modification before? Is there anything important that I should note before beginning?

The help is much appreciated.


My stick (hrap vx sa kai) started acting weird last week. It just disconnects from the console occasionally, more and more often as the gaming session goes on, sometimes for just a sec, sometimes I have to replug it.

First I thought the pcb was dying, but now I suspect the white plastic “wire frame” for the wires from the usb cable is getting loose in its socket on the pcb. The glue is super dry on it and I could easily pull it out of its socket.

What kind of glue should I use to fix the position of the plastic thing in its socket?


You would be better off just soldering on a new USB cable.


You are correct to assume the joystick mount bracket is spot welded into place on the TE top panel.
if you take out the 4 welds, the bracket will come off. Will drilling do the trick? I honestly don’t know, I never tried it.


Nice torch would do the trick. Art would die though.


Guys, need a final advice. After seeing all those awesome sticks in the thread, i decided to buy clear buttons, have a plexi cut in cnc etc. My aim is to have something like this:
Which clear button is better, seimitsu or sanwa? I read here and there that sanwa clears not that good. Is this correct?