Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

God, I just made two whole posts on the topic one page back, the 2nd post list all the options known.

Easiest is Zip ties and Wire anchors, the worst option is to glue the board into place.

Hot glue ftw

This is @DanAdamKOF 's Photo BTW

If I get another PCB that looks like this, I am blaming you.

Is there a certain kind of bit that works best for cutting button and joystick holes in plexi?

Does anyone know how to force a ChIMP to activate the secondary (xbox 360 in this case) PCB on a PC? Can’t find it in the doc.

Nevermind, found it here The official Cthulhu and ChImp thread - Try our new Dreamcast flavor!

Q: I want to use the Xbox360 mode on a PC.
A: If you hold down the Short, Strong, and Roundhouse buttons (1K, 2P, 3K) when plugging it in, it will skip the autodetection and go straight to Xbox360 mode.

That’s from a hitbox, not my fault.

Hey, this might sound like a stupid question but I’ve wondering about this for a while. Would HAPP or IL buttons and a joystick fit in a Hori RAP 4 Kai? I couldn’t find any info on this (my google-fu isn’t that strong) and I prefer the American style parts, but I don’t think it’s worth buying a whole new stick. Also if they don’t fit is there a way to mod it so they will?

I am trying to restore my Qanba QRAF4 stick. I have all the pieces and components except one small piece. There is a 5-pin white plastic connector that the PCB-side of the 5 wires coming from the joystick assembly are supposed to be attached to.

When I botched my last soldering job, I cut these wires out of the old connector, which I have since lost. I have everything hooked back up to the Original factory PCB, except for the joystick. What is the best way to reattach these wires? What is this type of plastic connector called, and where can I buy another one?

The stick you have uses standard 30mm buttons. I don’t know much about American buttons, but if they are 30mm (or the imperial equivalent) in diameter, then go for it

The holes are the same size but the problem you may run into is the height of the buttons. American style buttons are a lot taller than the Japanese buttons. They should work in a larger stick like the VLX but the Kai may be too short.

If were speaking about the old Hrap 1, 3, 4 or EX yes, if were talking the VLX (any VLX) yes, all those Hori sticks has the clearance space.
Hori RAP 4 Kai, it be a tight fit. I seen Happ buttons been fitted into a Mad Catz TE before but ti requires alot of modding of the stick and the buttons.

Question, there’s 2 local tournaments coming up that are going to be played on ps4. The stick I use has a ps360+ in it, and so far I’ve only played sf5 on pc. I’ve heard of the 8 minute no legacy timeout thing for ps360+ on ps4. So after every game, do I just unplug and replug my stick back in? is it going to be a big hassle that’s going to piss people off there? I don’t have a ps4 to test it on.

Also, for a quick fix I was looking at brook converters. Does it matter which one I get since I have a ps360+? ps3 > ps4 converter would work if I forced ps3 mode right? 360 > ps4 converter would work if I forced 360 mode right? This question seems like the answer would be “yeah obviously”, but I’m just unsure if there’s a better converter (less lag) than the other for ps360+, or if there’s any problems with a converter and ps360+

You can do a soft rest of the ps360 by pressing select + 3k on ps4 mode.

So finally bought a brooks board, which is USB B output. Say I have a case that has a Neutrik port for B-A, and I want to install the brooks board into that. Would I be doing myself a disservice by using a B-B male, passing through the Neutrik and then going A-A male to console or PC (adding delay, power issues)? Should I just try and find a tidy way to run the B to A directly to board to avoid complications?

Semi-related, is it possible and/or worth the effort to go from the USB B to RJ45 through a Neutrik RJ-45 to USB-A?

U could buy b to a converters real cheap. U will save money and headache finding a b to b conector.

No I had been saving the dpdt switch for last. So when I started having both boards connected to the swtiches it looks like there was some kind of interference.
Thanks for the reply. That nudge in the right direction is what I needed.

Yeah, I figured that would be the case, but I like the clean finished look, the ability to remove the cable externally, as well as not having the external cable connected directly to the board of running the set up I described.

Do u have a neutrik setup? Is your pcb is B AND your neutrik is B in the case this would be the best solution, but I don’t know what set up your going for.

You know what, now that I think of it, I could just do 2 B Male to A Male cables through this couldn’t I?