Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

I got some probably really stupid questions, but whatever.

What does a actuator do. I have no idea what the difference between a bigger or smaller one makes and what they do.
Also, is there a standard spring tension across the various sticks, or does it depend on the manufacturer?
I always hear Sanwa and Seimetsu buttons are better than X or Y… But never WHY they are better - More responsive?

And lastly Question about the Qanba Q1, a simple starter stick. i got it, and I’m on my way to mod it, and as I was disassembling it i noticed something I haven’t seen in any of the youtube vids talking about it. And that is that i have these little black tubes where my screws should be… And I can’t remove them or do anything to do them. Which seems to mean I’m stuck with the art as I can’t remove the plexi to add my own art…

Am I missing something here?

What is the Seimitsu joystick of choice for "most’’ people here?

I tried a Seimitsu joystick back when I purchased my Hori EX SE but I dit not like it at all. The joystick felt very low quality to me, almost like the Madcatz stick from their SE case. Currently I use the Hayabusa, i live that thing.

Anyways, I wanna give Seimitsu another try but I want to know which is the current stick to get from them.

It’s a matter of preference, but I like the LS-56 a lot. The LS-40 is also very well liked here (I enjoyed it as well).

Are there any diagrams on adding a toggle switch to the PS3/PS4 mode selector for a Hori FC4 padhack?

I purchased some used Madcatz SE’s from a friend and one of them was previously modded with a ps2/ps3/pc pcb. He did a godawful job of wiring and an even worse job mounting the pcb. I’m looking into recycling this pcb into a different stick, and giving it a better home to live in. Alas I have no idea what pcb he used as there is no markings I recognize on the board itself. So Im at a loss as to what goes where (I have zero circuitry experience) and would like it if I could be linked somewhere that has information on my specific pcb.
I can give extensive detail if needed, but im really just looking for a good how to video or something that makes it easy to know how to drop it into a case.



It’s a version of This

Check around page 5 or 6 and I think I’ve seen something similar. Thread should have a ton of info. Good luck.

I think last time they blocked USB HID Descriptors, and that’s after bootleg DualShocks were blowing up. I am pretty sure that they largely don’t care until “PlayStation” and “explosion” are in the headlines.

As far as what Brook’s doing, I think they figured out what Hori and MadCatz are doing to keep their devices authenticated. Given that devices work, then disconnect, there’s no decryption or handshaking or HID whitelisting, probably some kind of keep alive being sent every few minutes. Anyone here own a Beagle USB sniffer? :smiley:


Can anybody else confirm this? It does seem like there is way less dissatisfaction with the newer models in terms of the plexi.

AFAIK its flush with the bezel and thicker but it still goes around the buttons instead of under. Give me the tek innovations plexi any day.

Actuator is the part of the joystick that hits the microswitches that tell the PCB what direction you’re pressing in. Genuinely speaking, a bigger actuator means a shorter throw (total distance the joystick travels) and also a smaller dead zone. (distance the joystick can move without registering any motion.) The spring tension is different for every stick, with the “american” brands being noticeably stronger than the Japanese brands. Most people consider Sanwa/Seimetsu buttons best because of their increased sensitivity. Most people winning tourneys also tend to use Japanese parts, which has cemented the idea that in order to be the best you can be, you need parts from those manufacturers.

Ahhh, my first project stick…

The newer Q1 models have those plugs. I forget the specifics, but I believe they’re glued together. I never attempted to remove them.

I asked about dual modding with the PS2/PC board, but was told that it was not common ground. If you buy the PC board only, it is common ground according to FocusAttack.

Now my question is, what are those quick disconnect terminals things called? Like inside a Mad Catz SE stick one qd wire attached to a terminal and connects to a wire on the opposite side. I’d like to consider buying one of them for Joystick managment as I use Seimitsu rather than directly soldering the wires to the board. Though I might as well use a Euro style screw connector.

So my friend got a TES+ and he’s gonna replace the art, he’s got the template and design and all that. He ordered the plexi stuff from Art/Tek to do it. But we’re kinda wondering how to actually fasten the plexi onto the case. In the pics I had seen of the TES+ online and whatnot, I thought they were just screws that go around the top of the panel, and you’d just take those out and screw the new plexi on. But he showed me a cell phone pic, and I can’t quite make it out… Are these rivets that need to be drilled out, or is that some kind of specialty driver? The picture is blurry. Or are people just gluing their new plexi on?


The instructions for art/plexi replacement are found in the official Madcatz TE2 manual.


But that’s for the TE2, I’m talking the TES. I thought they were different in that the TE2 has that clamshell effect of opening up and this one does not. And also doesn’t even have an original plexi if I’m not mistaken, isn’t the art stuck on?

You are right. I read your post as TE2+, sorry. By looking at the TES+ it looks like the top panel is assembled just like the original TES, which required the art to be peeled off. The screws should hold down your new art and plexi, no need to glue them down.

If the TES+ is anything like the original TE line: remove screws from top panel, rip off the stock artwork, clean up the metal panel (optional), apply art and plexi, reinstall screws. Simple.

Thanks man.

Any recommendations for a good soldering iron for PCB work? Last one I bought doesn’t even heat at the tip enough to melt solder, had to use the side of the iron.

@LastVerse Good news. I found my old Q1 case, and I’m going to scrap it and use the parts for a new arcade stick (I replaced all the buttons, joystick and PCB on it previously.) If you still need to know exactly how that plexi separates, I can check for you.