Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

Was thinking of getting a model 2 Saturn pad and a converter to use on my PC but I’m sort of stuck on which converter to get.

I’m just stuck. I don’t know what’s good because there’s practically no reviews online.



Some of them seem like they have more utility for less money but maybe they don’t work as well? I honestly have no clue. Would appreciate any help on this.

They only have Crown (and not the newer stuff) but they’re the only EU store that I’m aware of the carries Korean anything:

It kinda depends on the material. Different grades have different properties, and there is thousands of grades for Steel.
Snap in Buttons are designed for materials 1.5mm to 4.5mm thick.
Japanese style Screw-in buttons can go into thicker materials, up to 8mm panel thickness.

Now for most people go with steel go for at least 16 gauge or .065 inches or 1.651mm

Hey guys. I just bought/modded my first stick(Venom PS4 stick) with Sanwa parts brought from China. I have no idea how to tell wether they are genuine or not. Link to the auction is below - any feedback would be great!

If they don’t say sanwa on the bottom of the rim and switch, they aren’t sanwa

My 360 Mad Catz TE1 stick is giving me all sorts of issues. I was planning to dual mod it, but the PCB is giving me issues on PC/SFV.
Directional inputs drop or sometimes just dont come out. hold left , nothing, upright, nothing. I swapped JLF PCB and no dice.
So I have a Xbox 1 Mini controller, First wave of third party Xbox One padhack options
I had padhacked one of these for a 6button stick, no LEDs. For the TE I would like to try and retain everything if possible.
What would I need to do to have the player LED’s work with the minis lights? Hell, I think the Mini may only have 1 LED and not have which # player you are. And how difficult would it be to incorporate the Turbos? I’ve never used them but if I can have them work, all the better.

They better damn well be legitimate for that price. FocusAttack, Arcade Shock, Paradise Arcade Shop, etc. all have the same parts for about 10 bucks cheaper in total, and they’re wildly trusted sources.

Take pictures so we can see what’s going on.

It would depend if both boards has the LEDs wired the same or not.

Are the board’s LEDs common cathode or common anode?

The rest of the board being common ground or not would not effect how the LEDs are wired.
So pay attention how the LEDs are wired and where their polarity is going.

LED diagram here for reference


The Mad Catz Xbox 360 TE player indicator lights, as well as the PS360+ and the Brooks Universal Fight Board are all wired for Common Anode.


Which they would be like this on the TE guide PCB.

As for your Xbox One Mini controller, I can’t say. You need to apply voltage to each LED on the board to find the polarity, and probe around with a multimeter to see if the board’s LEDs are common anode or Common cathode.

I got a question to other people who are more Electronic Engineering inclined than me, assuming there is a controller PCB which lights are Common Cathode, is there away to make this work with another board which lights are set for common anode? Hex inverter perhaps?

So Ive never modified a joystick (or much else) before, but I saw the Mayflash F300 on sale for about 45USD. So I picked it up and grabbed a Sanwa stick and 8 Sanwa buttons for 35CAD at a local arcade supplier.

Replacing the buttons was brain dead easy of course, but the joystick isn’t quite so straight forward. I’ve got no problem soldering, but I really don’t want to break the common ground on the PCB. If I have to do it I will, but Id rather not.

I looked everywhere, but I just cant seem to find a good guide on this subject. At least not for the Mayflash F300

I believe a double sided 5 pin jst harness will work, assuming it’s like the v2 and the venom. Alternately, you can splice in with wire nuts or a terminal strip (or via soldering, though that’s more of a pain if you have to swap things), common ground or not.

Does anybody know what’s going on with GamerFinger buttons? I’ve checked every retailer i know of and they’re out of stock everywhere - it’s been like this for at least a month.

I live in New Zealand and this was the cheapest place to buy them :slight_smile: saved me about 40 dollars

They definitely say Sanwa on the buttons and the stick gates - But I read online people are imitating these details to pass them off as genuine parts. Is there any way I can tell by the way they click? they are pretty sensitive and the stick feels better than the stock Venom one - And one other thing to note, the buttons and stick are white, but the buttons are a bit discoloured compared to the stick

Easy solution if you don’t want to mess with the PCB, is just swap the PCB out with individual switches.

Not sure if this is the same issue as Rhombustible’s.


Tried to padhack this and glued down my wires after soldering them to the points. When I tried to remove the glue, the wires came with it and tore out the little metal things that I soldered to on 3 of the points. Can this be fixed by soldering dorectly to the trace? Are there alternate points I can use? Is the pad fubar’d?

You can solder to the traces, just do so carefully. I recommend soldering to the front first, save the back for emergencies.

Solder to the black contacts? Can i solder directly to them or do I need to scrape them to expose some metal?

Hi, simple short question:

I have a ls-58-01 with M-Plate in a Madcat TES+. I think it could still be a bit stiffer and I don’t like the deadzone, so I am going to replace the spring with a LS-56 one. Is the LS-56-01 the same stick with just a diffrent spring or are there further diffrences and the LS-56 has a smaller deadzone?

Thanks in advance.

The button contacts, you’ll have to scrape of the black stuff carefully, just enough to expose the copper. But it’s too late for that with this pad, I was talking about future pad hacks you do. Once those spots are ripped off the back the front contacts won’t work.

I have not tested this, but I’m wondering if you could repair the back with a conductive pen then solder to the front. In theory, if this were to work, you would need to expose the trace then draw from it to the hole and really fill the hole in. You wouldn’t be able to solder to the hole after that, but it might be enough contact to restore function to the front.

The spring is the only difference. The 56’s dead zone is tiny, what you’re talking about is the wobble. Unfortunately that’s inherent to the design with the way the actuator is- though I’ve only found it annoying while focusing on it, doesn’t bother me at all during actual gameplay.