Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)


Get the RAM fixed first. RAM issues can cause ANYTHING to happen.
Once your RAM is fixed, you can do a keychatter test for your TE2+ to test for flaky microswitches by doing the following:

  1. Download Joytokey NEWEST VERSION.

  2. Download Elite Keyboards’ SwitchHitter

  3. set joytokey to X16 processing speed. THIS IS IMPORTANT. This will reduce joytokey’s input lag from 20ms to <2ms.

  4. Bind the joystick directions to keyboard keys for up down left and right. You can also bind the buttons if you wish, to test for “dropped” inputs, but buttons tend to chatter as there is no “open and close lock click” on Sanwa switches (unlike Omron and Cherry switches).

  5. test for keychatter (duplicated/repeated or intermittent inputs on the directions, using Switchhitter to show chatter and intermittent inputs.

  6. if you have any chatter on the joystick microswitches, buy DEOXIT D5 contact cleaner (you can get it for $13 on amazon), then open the microswitches (very easy to do, just don’t lose the red plunger) and clean and spray deoxit on the microswitch gold contacts that smash together to trigger a switch activation. That will restore a flaky switch to perfect order, as long as the spring isn’t broken or something).

You can test the buttons to make sure they maintain constant activation when pressed, but messing around with the area where the buttons release input or begin to activate input will almost always trigger chatter, even brand new Sanwa switches can do that.


Does anyone know how to Wire the touchpad from a TE2+ to a Brook PCB?

TE2+ PCB is broken, and the Brook is replacing it.

Client wants as much functionality as possible. I can tell that the Ribbon Cable from the touchpad goes to the TE2+ PCB, but I don’t know where I can can tap the lines, to wire to the Touchpad inputs on the Brook PS3/4 Fightboard.

Scoured the Board, and couldn’t find info.


Easiest way is to buy the EZ-Mod for the TE2+
Otherwise you would be on your own with having to solder and whatever extra things would be needed.
Go read the EZ mod thread.


Not looking for easy, just looking for lines to tap on the Busted TE2+ for the touchpad.

Further research indicates that I have to buy the brook touchpad for it to work


I heard evo dont accept any kind of mods to a stick but brooks boards any truth to this? I got a hfcp4 modded into my atrox


-Brook Converters are allowed.
-Cronus Max Plus and Titan One converters are banned.
-All wireless controllers other than the DualShock4 and WiiU Pro Controller are banned.
-Nintendo 3DS, 2DS, or WiiU gamepad are not allowed.
-3rd party controllers which pair to a dongle like the MadCatz controllers are fine.


Yes, the Brook Converters and boards are allowed on a temporary basis. If game systems patch them out before the event, rendering them useless, they will be banned. So be very careful and have a backup plan.


I don’t see anything banning PCBs so long as they aren’t wireless or hacked.


Never heard if this.
Brook boards are fine if they work.
Hori or PDP fight pad PCB are often used and are legal

I do know they don’t accept sticks modded with Sony Dual Shock 3 and Sony Dual Shock 4 PCBs as they remain sync after use.


Hi all! I wanted to eventually buy a fight-pad, and on amazon, the ones with the best reviews are the Hori fighting commander 4 series. However it seems that the d-pad eventually goes bad after a few months of use for some users. I also saw that a newer version is coming out in a few weeks: https://amazon.com/Fighting-Commander-PlayStation-Officially-Licensed-4/dp/B01GVOFIAA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469990412&sr=8-1&keywords=fight+pad

I was wondering if anyone else had experiences like this and if I should buy something else. Are there better quality fight-pads out there that work on PC/PS3/PS4?


Ok i was hoping so what about the ps360 board?

I personally dont like brook boards i constantly see people still having time out issues after updating it way to often


Hmm new pad with xinput support. (even though they typo’d it as “input”).
Bookmarked, and thank you. Might be willing to grab the revision to play around with.

If I were you, I would wait until August the 15th and guinea pig the new pad. You know full well there were Dpad issues on the older one. You can search the forums as there is an existing thread about the HFC4 already, as they were discussed there also.


What about it?

For the PS3 and Xbox 360 its fine.
For the PS4 you ether have to have the game support legacy mode (which is banned in certain tournaments) or deal with min 8 timeouts.


I going to wait, and maybe later pad hack the thing.




Do you? No.
Does it have a purpose? Yes.

The 2nd dust washer is just a extra barrier from dust.


Does someone have experience with this brook breakout board:

I would buy the paradise one but the postage to europe is super brutal and the one behind the link would have free international shipping.


It’s the same one Focusattack.com sells as far as I can tell.


Are the PCB covers for the madcatz TE and SE the same size? I mostly only care about the switches for lock and dp/ls thing and am looking to buy one to replace my ruined ones.


Same pcb dimensions but different housings, so you can’t do a straight swap from a TE stick to an SE.

But you can get them to fit by being very careful with a dremel & knife.


hey hey. does anyone here know where i might find information on putting a seimitsu stick in a virtua stick high grade?


I modded a Madcatz alpha stick with a Sanwa JLF and Seimitsu low profile buttons. The buttons work fine, but the stick is constantly reading a down input when in neutral. This happens even when switching between dpad/Left stick, switching back to the stock stick, or even when a stick isn’t connected to the PCB. I assume this means the PCB is the problem? Anyone know of a fix or have suggestions for a replacement?