Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)


Yeah, I was definitely getting input errors with the stock stick before the swap. I had hoped a new stick would have fixed it…


Your stick is probably defective then. You could return it or whatever or just switch out the PCB


I’d have to replace it since I voided the warranty. Are there any PCBs that will work with the existing parts or do I have to gut another alpha stick?


Any PS3+PS4 board will work but you may need to solder. Depends which PCB you use.


Where can i find the brooks board all soddered up so all i gotta do is screw it into my honey comb panel in my atrox?


Paradise arcade shop. You can choose all headers soldered, however keep in mind that some of the soldered headers will just be pins, and some will be in black connectors that will not be compatible with a JST connector found at the end of some cables, so you would have to crimp the connections yourself. The connectors that are just pins will be able to fit a JST cable with the right size. Example: The USB soldered header on the brook UFB fits the Qanba Q1/Q2/Q4raf USB cable perfectly (the shield ground wire and hole on the Q4 cable will not be connected to anything, though).


Can anyone tell where I can get some new art for my xboxone sick and how to install it . It’s my first time so go slow with me lol


Which Xbox stick?


@Darksakul Madkatz TE 2



That’s the template for the TE2, download that, find the xbox layout, and create whatever artwork you want with it. Print it out on 11x14 paper and just cut off the unused parts and the holes for the buttons and stick. When you pop open the case there will be 8 screws to remove that secure the black frame to the case, once removed the black frame can be taken off and the new artwork placed underneath the thin plastic cover. There are plenty of videos you can check out on youtube if you need to see the actual process being performed.


thanx @Clandestine


Did anyone who plays SFV on PC ever get the ue4 kiwigame error and get a fix to it?


So whats the issue with xbox one sticks not working on pc. I know its a driver issue. But i remember mark man saying its because the te2 pcb and atrox pcb are different from how 360s functioned ans it would be ms to correct the issue i cant remember where i saw him discussing it


I plan on getting sfv for when I upgrade my PC and I play sfiv with my xbox360 stick already so it should work right??


360 sticks work fine on pc its xbox one sticks that dont


Anything specific I should pay attention to if I want LED lights from inside a stick to shine through the sides of the top plexiglas? I’d probably only need some holes if there’s an mdf plate between the plexiglas and the insides with wiring, right?

Shining through the sides like with this one: https://i.imgur.com/zU76FEf.jpg


No, my XBONE controllers all worked fine. Its the PS4 versions that don’t have XINPUT drivers that don’t work properly with SFV.


Jasen, he’s talking about the issue where Xbox One sticks’ trigger buttons (LT/RT) don’t respond in windows 10 but do in windows 7.
This affects genuine Xbox one gamepads, and has nothing to do with the flightstick. I suspect this is a driver issue as if you use Joytokey to read the xinput axes directly through it, pressing LT and RT don’t register as anything. This may have been fixed by now.


I could have sworn I asked this before but I can’t find my original question. So anyway I want to dualmod my T.E. 2 stick with a brook universal fighting board. I know I’ll need to do a bit of soldering so I was looking at picking up this kit

ALEMON 6-in-1 Electric Soldering Iron Kit

and this mask for protection

TR Industrial 88024 Shade 11

Or maybe this if the mask is a bit too much

Pyramex S3550SFJ OTS Over Prescription Welding Safety Glasses

Oh, I need to replace the joystick as well. Guess I’ll go with this

Industrias Lorenzo 4 or 8-Way Compact Joystick - Black

So what other tools do/would I need?


OR get this and save yourself a ton of money:

But in any case, any cheapy safety glasses are fine as long as they are certified (I got a set for $5 at Home Depot).

That soldering iron looks a bit crummy. Get something by Weller and Hakko to start and you will save the money you are going to waste on that cheap one when you replace it with something better later.

That IL is going to be a tight fit and require a lot of cutting to get it to fit. Why do you want to put that in a TE2 instead of say a Seimitsu or Hori or even tweaking the JLF?