Flagging “WTF” when people try to help you won’t get you too far here. Open up the case and plug the Cthulhu directly into the PS3 using a a USB a to B cable (make sure to unplug the RJ45 cable from your ps3 or pc first, plug both in and things will be fried). If it works , you can simply replace the Rj45 jack with a USB jack, leaving the RJ45 cable disconnected.
I’m not the one who flagged anything (Unless it was done as a misclick), will update with pics + the results of this when I have the opportunity.
Eh, it happens easily on phones.
Ok, figured I’d post pictures before I proceeded in taking anything apart and making a big mess
Based on what I’m seeing (In the first picture) the receiver where I’d normally place the other end of the USB A to B cable into is positioned to be facing part of the case itself with basically no room in-between, the only way to plug anything into is is going to be unscrewing the Cthulhu entirely before I can plug it in does this seem correct?
You know that you’re supposed to hold down home WHILE you are plugging it in right? You mentioned holding it down before plugging it in, dunno if that was just a different choice of words.
Do you have a multimeter to test the wire connections? First thing I thought of was perhaps the Home buttons of the PCBs aren’t connected properly to the imp or to the button or the microswitch of the home button is going out so it’s not working. That doesn’t explain why it would show up as an “Unrecognized USB device” though.
Both of those PCBs should work fine with a PC. You’ll usually get an “Unrecognized USB device” if the D+ Green and D- White wires of the connection are mixed up. Considering you’re using an RJ45 to USB connection, it could mean that one or both of the signal (D+ and D-) wires on the network jack side weren’t crimped properly and isn’t transmitting when plugged into the jack
When you plug it in to any USB source does the LEDs for the 360 board light up?
Have you verified that the wires going into the screw terminals on the Cthulhu are all solid and aren’t coming out or loose?
Having a multimeter means you can check the ground is flowing thru both boards, that the voltage is powering both boards, that there is no signal loss from any of the 4 wires from USB (Ground Voltage D+ D-) from one point to another, you can check the RJ45 to USB cable is correctly crimped. etc etc etc. If you have a multimeter, you can literally continuity test every point from one step to another to narrow down the potential issues.
Also, whomever padhacked that fightpad/brawlpad shouldn’t be putting glue on top of his solder points, but glue on the wire next to the solder points, this allows someone not only to make corrections on the solder point if necessary without tearing the glue off and risking lifting a trace, but also prevents the wire from being lifted up.
I’m all for you potentially fixing your own issue here, but if you don’t have the tools to do anything about it, I’d just suggest taking it to another modder.
Yeah, you’ll have to unscrew it. Put something non conductive between it and the imp board to prevent contact while you’ve got it loose.
LEDs for the 360 board do light up upon plugging it into any USB source, they flash upon being plugged in and then stop or go out for lack of a better term. If they are supposed to be continuously lit after being plugged in then that is not the case.
And yes, I know that I’m supposed to hold down home while plugging it in.
Are there buttons that’d match the color of the characters on the dualshock buttons? Or is that something I’d have to pull off with paint. Preferably Sanwa, but Seimitsu work as well.
You can order buttons that are approximately the same colors. Or you could order buttons that allows you to put artwork under the cap and then you can make them actually look like bigger versions of the buttons on the dualshock controller. Paradise Arcade, Focus Attack and other shops allow you to purchase individual buttons.
e: nevermind, question was answered in prior post on second look, and through a bit of research on my own part. Thank you so much for your help @Amerika!
i consider to build myself a hitbox in the near future and i have a qestion about buttons.
right now i think about the sanwa obsfs (wrong size in the link)
since they are not as loud as the usuall ones but i read somewhere…probably here, that there are some kind of
microswitch buttons which durability should be much better but i havent seen them so far.
which buttons would you recommend for a hitbox?
for the case that there is a option without soldering i would prefer them as long as they are good.
I myself prefer the Seimitsu 24 mm buttons for the hitbox - PS14-DNK
More because they have those locking screws than anything else. Options for not-soldering the buttons…? I’m assuming you want to wire the buttons to the PCB without using solder - I prefer using quick disconnects.
Ok, picked up a USB A to B cable plugged it directly into a Cthulhu and plugged into both my PC and Ps3, and there’s no response. I don’t even get an unrecognized USB message when I plug it into the PC through the A to B cable (Whereas I did get one when I plugged it in through the RJ45 which defaults to the 360 controller), though it’s still receiving power.
I guess this means it’s the Cthulhu which is dead.
I would guess that’s the case without being able to poke around in there myself. You could disconnect the cthulhu altogether as one last test (should have worked with the test you did), but that would require de-soldering, which I’m guessing is beyond your scope based on the information you’ve given so far. The easiest solution at this point would be to use a zero delay ps2/ps3/pc encoder (get the .110" connector version), which will run you $20. It’s plug and play with the exception of possibly having to re-arrange the 5 pin (which won’t take soldering either).
Also worth adding that you could sell the hacked 360 pad with that imp board and recoup some of your losses.
The downside of that option would be that you wouldn’t be able to use your pass through without doing some modification to the cable or adding a cable- nothing tough, but it might be intimidating to someone unfamiliar with stick mods and wiring. If you wanted to keep the RJ45 pass through, you could solder a 1’ cat5 cable to the USB pins (following the correct cat5 configuration for ground, voltage, data+, and data-, of course) and leave the included cable out altogether (which will likely be way too long to fit in the case, unless you’ve got plenty of vertical clearance). If you can make the included cable fit inside, you would need to swap the pass through for a USB jack.
All this said, replacing the Cthulhu is obviously also an option. You could do a “fresh install” and keep it solderless (would also require a USB pass through). Personally, I would use the ZD in this case, as it’s cheaper and comes with all the wiring (not to mention as easy as it gets to install for someone new).
Any chance you guys know what kind of screw goes on the metal plate of the jotstick on the etokki omni rev3? Just received this etokki omni case and the screws from an older TE do no properly secret the joystick in it or what size is the screw
Have there been any fightsticks that work by being pressure sensitive rather than position sensitive? That is to say, fightsticks where the stick moves very little in response to pressure.
An easy way to address issues like this is to take the stick or a sample screw to a hardware store. Threaded screwholes in that stick are likely to be metric.
you mean like analog joysticks? they’re working with one in the smash controller thread Project: Dedicated Smash Bros Arcade Stick - Update - Seimitsu LS-64 in action!. there are some arcade games that use analog joysticks also but just about every fighting game i know is designed for digital joystick inputs.
Most arcade games that use analog are later model Flight Sims or Driving titles.
There no actual fighting game that uses Analog. And I disagree with the whole Smash bros Argument and Analog.