Because the spacing looks really tight inside, so I’m wondering.
In the event that I want to build a stick with American parts, does anyone have some sort of blueprint for the MAS sticks so that I can make my own clone? Thanks
Does anyone know where to purchase undamned usb decoders? Specifically the screw terminal versions.
I know that paradisearcadeshop has the D-sub versions for sale still, but there aren’t any diagrams or instances of that version opened up and gutted for a multi-console variation.
The DE 15 Pinout uses a typical Neo Geo Plus Pinout.
I’m trying to fit a Neutrik port into a wood case I bought. Since the front panel where it would go is rounded instead of a flat edge, there isn’t room to securely screw it on. I was thinking of trying to 3D print a holder for the USB portion, what will essentially be the round metal section of the Neutrik port minus the rectangular part where the screws would go and having clips on the side like how a standard snap-in arcade button would have, but I’m not sure how to go about doing that since from what I understand to 3D print something you need a blueprint. Also if made in plastic, would it still be possible to have the sections for the top and bottom screws in the round section to secure the USB part?
Its alot to digest but start reading the following thread
The thread does have post with other people tackling the Neutrik wood mounting issues.
it might not solve your issues, but it might provide some insight
Another thing you could look in to is Switchcraft brand XLR panel mounts.
As Dark says above, you are using the wrong Neutrik jack for a wood installation. Their standard Cat5 NE8FDP jacks are great for plastic and metal panels, for wood it’s better to go with their Cat6 model (NE8FDY). Or just get a Switchcraft…
First post on SRK, this feels nice hehe
I’m about to build my first stick, find a lot of helpful ressources here and on slagcoin, but english is not my first langage so I get a bit stuck and overwhelmed when it comes to technical stuff. I’m a tech enthusiast and wood worker so making should not be a problem, it’s mostly about translation.
So the 2 points that matters me are :
- I’d like to be able to plug/unplug my usb cable whenever I want to. Solution I found is this : http://www.neutrik.com/en/multimedia/usb/nausb-w-b but I’m not sure I get it right. It’s said it is reversible, does it mean I can have usb-A on both sides and just use this as a plug that comes in surface of my stick ? Here is a drawing of what I mean :
Or a B to B cable would fit between the pcb and the neutrik ?
Are there any alternatives to these Neutrik plugs ? Is there a name for those, other than “usb gender change”, that can help me find something, a bit more, hmm, classy ? I see you talk about that just above and give names of products that look the same. And I don’t really get why it couldn’t fit into a wood or plywood stick like here ?
- Second point is :
I’d like to go on a vewlix layout with sanwa screw-in buttons. Do you guys feel a difference between the 36 and 36.5mm space between buttons ?
Maximum thickness is 8mm, otherwise buttons won’t hold in place - that’s what I understood from Slagcoin, am I right ?
Thank you all, sorry if this seems a bit confused.
And thanks for this goldmine of info you all contribute to.
This is with the Type A Plug facing out
This thing is a Type A female plug on one side and Type B Female Plug on the other.
The Plug is reversible as you can use which side is facing in the other side facing out.
You want The B plug on the outside of your case so you can use a normal USB cable with your stick.
I guess my question more related to opening up that device and soldering directly to the board for the other controller options if attaching another board.
I’m trying to make a project box type of thing using the USB Undamned decoder, Brooks UFB, and MC Cthulhu. The idea is for someone to plug into the USB Undamned decoder with their PS3/360 stick and on the other end have the respective USB or RJ45 (or DPDT switch for breakaway cables), it would allow someone to utilize the BUFB+MCC boards inside and play on PS4/X1/PS3/360/PS2/DC/GC/et cetera.
If I went the premade dsub route, I would have to open it up to utilize 8 button mode and other misc buttons. Hence why I wondered if there were diagrams of it or if they were gutted.
I don’t know of any other decoder devices on the market that could potentially do this, if any.
My main goal is just for people with PS3/360 sticks to be able to play CVS2 on DC/PS2.
The Dreamcast only uses a total of 6 buttons not including start and the D-pad, The PS2 you might loose 2 buttons but you don’t need them for fighters.
Just put your controller PCB in a project box with a matching DB 15 connector, mate the undamned usb decoder DB-15 version to the project box. Boom Done.
And the best part is you can set up multiple boards to be ready to use one Undammed decoder.
I haven’t been paying attention to padhacks in a while, are there any options for PS3/PS4/PC that autodetect all of the above, or is a Brook board the only way to get that?
There’s no real option with autodetect other than the Brook boards iirc.
Technically a Hori FC in PS4 mode autodetects on all 3, but on PS3 you don’t have a PS or Select button and on PC you’ll only have Dinput.
Yuck. Brook it is, thanks for the quick reply.
It just feels bad to pay more and lose functionality. There really is no other option if the screw terminal versions don’t exist in the wild, though.
Thank you for the idea to used the decoder outside of the box, I would have never thought of that.
Thanks for the replies guys. I did try and look into those Switchcraft xlr mounts, I might have been reading the measurements wrong but they all seem bigger than what would fit in this and it recommended the panel its attaching to be only around 3mm thickness, the hole diameter is around 24mm and thicker than 3mm.
If Switchcraft mounts do fit in there which one should I be looking at getting, the site didn’t have pictures for most of them, was trying to find a regular USB one.
You left out that information in your first post. I thought you were looking for a RJ45 jack because of your issues having it fit in a wooden case.
Any Neutrik or Switchcraft USB jack will fit in a wooden case, you just need a 24mm hole. Switchcraft USB jacks are much better quality, I find the Neutrik USB jacks crap quality and designed to break.
I don’t know what data sheet you’re reading from but a 3mm recommended panel thickness would only apply to a jack that needs to be mounted in two parts, like a Neutrik Cat5 NE8FDP.
http://www.etokki.com/5-pin-to-QD-Harness. I bought this i want to change microswitches and quit the JLF PCB conector.
How to put the microswitches?
Is there any combinations of colours to put the cables in microswitches?
Ok I didn’t get that. Thanks !
I mean, is the 0.5mm difference noticeable ?
Ah okay so a Switchcraft one will fit in there, does it still need to be secured with screws? I’m not sure if you can tell from the picture there but the reason I couldn’t use a regular Neutrik port was because where the hole is there, the edge is rounded instead of a flat edge so there isn’t room to secure it with screws.