Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

I am thinking of using photo paper for top panel without plexi or lexan cover. Do you guys think photo paper alone would be durable for top panel? And which would be better, matte or glossy?(Lets just say i fixed the paper in position, no problem there).
I want to get away without using plexi because it is kind of reflective. I also won’t use lamination.

Durable? nope.

How big has the hole to be that the Neutrik USB Connector fits? Couldn’t find the exact size. Thanks!

24mm, same size hole as your typical 24mm Japanese push buttons.

Make sure you also make 2 smaller holes to accommodate the screws that holds the connector in place.

This post is regarding the the sub topic I started in this post. Its regarding the PCB’s of the Hori Fight Stick 2 for the PS2. I’ve also added a picture of the fourth PCB that connects the R3 and L3 buttons.

PCBs:

PCB #2
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v484/Ran19/CAM00860.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v484/Ran19/CAM00844.jpg

PCB # 3
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v484/Ran19/CAM00867.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v484/Ran19/CAM00867.jpg

PCB #4
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v484/Ran19/CAM00862.jpg

I

For clarification to the rest of SRK TT, your previous post was:

I google searched “Hori Fighting Stick 2 shoryuken” and got a 2 page thread that’s about 8 years old with step by step instructions on how to mod this thing with new buttons and joystick.
Not all the photos are still around, but you can sift thru it and see a lot of useful information.

A - Doubtful. Hori’s sticks (especially those in the PS2 and early PS3/360 era hardly ever had a common ground PCB. If you wanted to put a Sanwa in it, you’ll have to do some extra work as you’ll read in the topic I posted above.

B - You can keep the functionality for the PCB2 and wire those to whatever PCB you decide to put in the thing. PCB3 you might as well just get rid of, as most PCBs won’t have support for R3/L3 or switching to different analog sticks.

What I recommend:
If you aren’t familiar with modding, and don’t have access to tools you’ll need to mod (such as a soldering iron, dremel, drill, etc), then I’d recommend just selling the thing and buying something with quality parts in it already, as after I read thru the topic, it’s not necessarily an easy job to do for a noob. But then again, it all depends on what you want to do and how far you’re willing to go.

A dual modded stick with decent parts in it is $80 right now with the Mayflash v2 stick, so you gotta think you’re gonna end up spending $25 on joystick, $30 on buttons, and $30-$60 on a PCB. Probably better to ditch it or just sell it in the trading outlet here on SRK.

Good luck!

Really? I can’t think of a single Hori PS2 stick that wasn’t common ground, including HRAP’s, FS PS, Tekken 3 versions, Namco stick etc. The only times I remember Hori fucking up was with their earlier 360 sticks. Even all their PS3 sticks were common ground (Fighting Edge is debatable).

I’ve modded a FS2 a looong time ago, IIRC it is common ground but I didn’t keep any images to double check. Probably because the only thing worse than this stick is the EX2, either of them make me want to vomit.

@FrankCastleAZ: I’ll look through that post again and see what I can find. With regards to the scale of the mod, this shouldn’t be to difficult if the pcb’s are common ground as this seems to be the main obstacle for the use of the PS360+. I’m looking to turn this stick into a multi-platform controller as I have access to many of the consoles its compatible with.

@gahrling: If you can, could you give me a few tips on how would I be able to determine if the pcb’s are common ground?

Again thanks for the help guys.

So sanwa clear plungers are capable of artwork inserts

You can just look at the the pcb’s and see if all of the GND traces merge. Ideally you would use a multimeter set to ‘continuity’ mode and probe all the GND points you were unsure about. But seeing as you’ll be getting rid of the FS2 motherboard you don’t need to worry about that and just hook up the daughter boards.

IMO ditch this stick for a mod friendly one. I also wouldn’t bother with hacking the L3 & R3 buttons, the PS360+ already has a way of doing this through a software macro.

@gahrling It seems from some of the other posts on here the PS360+ has issue with the PSX/PS2 console support, some seem minor though. I think I’ll have to take a step back with this mod and check on a few things. Thanks for the help

Hey guys quick upgrade question. I have a hori real arcade pro kia ps3/4 (not hyabusa) on the way and I was wondering what parts you guys would say, if any, I should replace? I loved my sanwa buttons on my hitbox so I already plan on swapping them out. How does everything else usually hold up with horis?
Thanks

Yes.

Honestly it all personal preference, as long as what ever you use is authentic arcade parts you can’t go wrong.

I remember hearing about a magnetic joystick instead of spring, and that sounded awesome. What’s the word on those?

why don’t i see more razer atrox threads or an offical thread here ? is it that bad of a stick. i was considering getting one ans elling my te2 at some point

Is the Taeyoung Fanta still in production? If so, does anyone know of where I can purchase one? It’s a stick I’d like to try out at some point, but can’t seem to find anywhere to purchase one.

you may be talking about the wico perfect 360. it is pretty great but requires more mounting space in a joystick. you can find them on ebay now and again, just keep in mind that they can get pretty expensive. another type of magnetic joystick is the sanwa prototype shown back at TGS in 2012. it also uses magnets but as far as i know this joystick has never been released for the general public.

Your Google-Fu is weak, grasshopper. There is an Atrox thread.

I want to get bottom padding for my stick (HRAPV5). What would you recommend and where do I get it from?

so i been using the jlf stick in my te2 for 3 months and i love it recently added a 2lb spring and 1.0 kowal agutator. i like the feel of it and i was curious what the hori haybasa was like i do perfer a square gate which it has but i like to switch octo’s how hard is it to mode an octo to fit on the hori?