What does it register as when you plug it into your PC?
When I set the stick to XInput on my PC, it’s registered as a Xbox 360 controller. For HID it’s registered as a Mad Catz Fightstick.
@Darksakul thanks man
edit: sorry about the giant embed I don’t know how to make it smaller
Bought a Dragon; does it have the same actual metal balltop as the Obsidian? Otherwise, I’ll just steal the one off my Obsidian and replace that one with a chrome top. I need that metal feel for the Dragon.
Has anyone run into an issue dual modding a ufb, where the ufb won’t recognize on ps3 or ps4 when ground and/or power is shared between both pcbs?
I have used both 20 pin headers and terminal posts, and swapped ground on other headers including touchpad and usb, and home button doesn’t activate.
It seems to recognize fine on the PC (except seperate issue where K3 is registering as z axis), since I dont need home on controller settings.
I will also be running an imp switch inbetween. Would it be possible to source power and ground for the second pcb from the switch rather than from the ufb?
How bout you tell us when your Dragon comes in.
Got photos of your wiring?
That’s odd and might suggest an issue more complicated than just a wire or two being lose (or disconnected). That said, it wouldn’t hurt to post a picture of the internals so that someone with an eye for such issues can take a look.
Hey guys, have a little problem with my hayabusa, thought i might ask here;
I recently opened up my hayabusa cus one of the switches was not registering well anymore.
(I was playing with kowal oversized and old Kowal octagonal restrictor plate and plasticdust was everywhere, cleaned it all up and stick/switch is working again, now with default actuator/gate)
After putting it back together and testing with a friends hayabusa aswell, there seems to be more resistance on the lever then normal, can clearly notice it next to my friends hayabusa.
So I read this might be due to overtightening the restirctor plate, took that all off and still the same feeling, took it apart again, re assembled, lubed with white silicone grease (generic), still the resistance remains.
Does anyone have any ideas? As far as I can see the thing only goes together one way so I’ve no idea whats wrong really.
thanks for any help!
Kowal actuators and octagonal or round gates will do that.
You might need a spring swap or you got plastic dust in your switches.
Guys, what current pcb can I buy to play on these systems with only one stick (if possible):
Thanks in advance!
Anyone know the measurements for the carriage bolts on an hrap2?
Trying to replace them to be almost exact with the originals (length doesn’t have to be exactly 12mm or whatever it is) but finding exactitudes for something this old and specific is hard.
I cleaned out all the switches already, You are right, there was alot of particles in there. I will try another spring, the default sanwa jlf one should be good right? (I cant get hayabusa parts here in holland)
I understand the actuator can do some damage hence why im not using it anymore. How can an octo gate destory a spring tho? is it pushed to the side too far?
Absolute Noob Question: I have been playing on Korean Levers for a long time and I just started trying out Japanese ones. Whenever I do certain motions the stick moves past neutral and hits the opposite direction (example if I do down and let go without guiding it back it hits up). Is this normal? Do I have to guide it back every time? Help a brother out… I know it’s a dumb question but I want to make sure I’m using the lever right lol. Lot more finesse on Japanese levers I’m noticing
Some people say letting go of the stick is a bad habit, I personally don’t let go with Jp sticks unless it’s doing Korean backdashes in Tekken but everything else I always keep my hand on the balltop.
Letting go of a Japanese or American style joystick can cause some bounce
^^/^ funny enough I started noticing this when I was playing Tekken lol. So it’s normal than huh? I need to find a new way to korean backdash in Tekken now… Korean levers made it so easy but this JP stuff seems harder for sure.
You can mod the joystick so when you let go it won’t bounce right? If so, how do you do that
change the spring and you can reduce some of the deflection. I want to stay stronger, but I seen people put in weaker springs and get a similar effect
The rubber feet on my TE aren’t looking so hot so I tried putting some adhesive craft foam on the bottom (which has a plexi cover and artwork from tek-innovations). It didn’t help as much as I was hoping, so I tried to peel it off of the plexi. Unfortunately it left a lot of residue and flakes. I’m wondering if goo gone is safe to use on the acrylic from tek-innovations?