That’s odd and might suggest an issue more complicated than just a wire or two being lose (or disconnected). That said, it wouldn’t hurt to post a picture of the internals so that someone with an eye for such issues can take a look.
Hey guys, have a little problem with my hayabusa, thought i might ask here;
I recently opened up my hayabusa cus one of the switches was not registering well anymore.
(I was playing with kowal oversized and old Kowal octagonal restrictor plate and plasticdust was everywhere, cleaned it all up and stick/switch is working again, now with default actuator/gate)
After putting it back together and testing with a friends hayabusa aswell, there seems to be more resistance on the lever then normal, can clearly notice it next to my friends hayabusa.
So I read this might be due to overtightening the restirctor plate, took that all off and still the same feeling, took it apart again, re assembled, lubed with white silicone grease (generic), still the resistance remains.
Does anyone have any ideas? As far as I can see the thing only goes together one way so I’ve no idea whats wrong really.
thanks for any help!
Kowal actuators and octagonal or round gates will do that.
You might need a spring swap or you got plastic dust in your switches.
Guys, what current pcb can I buy to play on these systems with only one stick (if possible):
Thanks in advance!
Anyone know the measurements for the carriage bolts on an hrap2?
Trying to replace them to be almost exact with the originals (length doesn’t have to be exactly 12mm or whatever it is) but finding exactitudes for something this old and specific is hard.
I cleaned out all the switches already, You are right, there was alot of particles in there. I will try another spring, the default sanwa jlf one should be good right? (I cant get hayabusa parts here in holland)
I understand the actuator can do some damage hence why im not using it anymore. How can an octo gate destory a spring tho? is it pushed to the side too far?
Absolute Noob Question: I have been playing on Korean Levers for a long time and I just started trying out Japanese ones. Whenever I do certain motions the stick moves past neutral and hits the opposite direction (example if I do down and let go without guiding it back it hits up). Is this normal? Do I have to guide it back every time? Help a brother out… I know it’s a dumb question but I want to make sure I’m using the lever right lol. Lot more finesse on Japanese levers I’m noticing
Some people say letting go of the stick is a bad habit, I personally don’t let go with Jp sticks unless it’s doing Korean backdashes in Tekken but everything else I always keep my hand on the balltop.
Letting go of a Japanese or American style joystick can cause some bounce
^^/^ funny enough I started noticing this when I was playing Tekken lol. So it’s normal than huh? I need to find a new way to korean backdash in Tekken now… Korean levers made it so easy but this JP stuff seems harder for sure.
You can mod the joystick so when you let go it won’t bounce right? If so, how do you do that
change the spring and you can reduce some of the deflection. I want to stay stronger, but I seen people put in weaker springs and get a similar effect
The rubber feet on my TE aren’t looking so hot so I tried putting some adhesive craft foam on the bottom (which has a plexi cover and artwork from tek-innovations). It didn’t help as much as I was hoping, so I tried to peel it off of the plexi. Unfortunately it left a lot of residue and flakes. I’m wondering if goo gone is safe to use on the acrylic from tek-innovations?
Goo Gone is citrus/based. I’ve used it to remove price label residue on CD jewel cases for the Saturn and Dreamcast games I’ve bought at the local retro shop. So far so good. Now are jewel cases acrylic? Most likely not…but chemically it should react (or actually not) the same with Goo Gone.
Make sure it’s Goo Gone and not Goof Off. That stuff has Xylene in it and will seriously fuck up plastics.
Some people say naphtha/lighter fluid works well, but I wouldn’t put that crap anywhere near my sticks.
Make sure your e clip is fully seated, and make sure the inner dust washer is fitting around the shaft cover rather than being pinched by it.
Chow would I go about using the existing start and select buttons on a madcatz SE if i’m swapping the PCB for the brooks ps3/4.
Do I need to power the board or can I just add them to my daisy chain and solder them to the options / home contacts on the PCB?
Tried to make a RJ45 to DC cable and am having issues. The buttons on the controller seem to be mapped to directions as well. Not sure if I fucked up somewhere or the fact I’m using a PC>DC controller adapter is making stuff weird.
I have a video showing what exactly is happening on my side https://youtu.be/mW9tsqHUE5Y
looking at possibly buying the new Gamerfinger HBFS30s for my Obsidian after Christmas, and I’m worried about swapping the stock Sanwa 30mm buttons out for these. Replacement buttons on the Obsidian can only go one way into the panel that holds the joystick; and they (Gamerfinger buttons) look a little thicker than the Sanwas. Would I potentially have a problem swapping out the stock buttons for the Gamerfinger ones??
Any thoughts on the new 2017 LS-32 vs. the old one? Tried a ls-32 in a barcade a little while ago and liked it (i could tell what it was because I jumped the gate lol). Also, any thoughts on the higher tension ones (ls38 I think). I have an LS-40 already so comparisons to that would be very helpful. Thanks.
Also, does anyone know what size screw I would need to install a neutrik into a case without pre-drilled holes? That info could save me some time at the hardware store.
so i saw on taobao some guy is selling art for madcatz and razer sticks. what caught my eye was that he was also selling the first tes chunli art. has anyone bought or atleast heard of the guy selling it?