Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)


Chow would I go about using the existing start and select buttons on a madcatz SE if i’m swapping the PCB for the brooks ps3/4.

Do I need to power the board or can I just add them to my daisy chain and solder them to the options / home contacts on the PCB?


Tried to make a RJ45 to DC cable and am having issues. The buttons on the controller seem to be mapped to directions as well. Not sure if I fucked up somewhere or the fact I’m using a PC>DC controller adapter is making stuff weird.
I have a video showing what exactly is happening on my side https://youtu.be/mW9tsqHUE5Y


looking at possibly buying the new Gamerfinger HBFS30s for my Obsidian after Christmas, and I’m worried about swapping the stock Sanwa 30mm buttons out for these. Replacement buttons on the Obsidian can only go one way into the panel that holds the joystick; and they (Gamerfinger buttons) look a little thicker than the Sanwas. Would I potentially have a problem swapping out the stock buttons for the Gamerfinger ones??


Any thoughts on the new 2017 LS-32 vs. the old one? Tried a ls-32 in a barcade a little while ago and liked it (i could tell what it was because I jumped the gate lol). Also, any thoughts on the higher tension ones (ls38 I think). I have an LS-40 already so comparisons to that would be very helpful. Thanks.

Also, does anyone know what size screw I would need to install a neutrik into a case without pre-drilled holes? That info could save me some time at the hardware store.


so i saw on taobao some guy is selling art for madcatz and razer sticks. what caught my eye was that he was also selling the first tes chunli art. has anyone bought or atleast heard of the guy selling it?


Lot of bootleg products from there


anyone knows what reputation have the hori joystick in japan right now? specially opinions by japanese top players.


everyone uses them so i’ll assume they’re good. itazan recently switched to a rap-n


Most Japanese I talk to aren’t very fond of Hori parts in general. Some go so far as to call them straight up trash, which is going pretty far for Japanse people. I see a lot of people buying their controllers though, probably because they’re cheap and readily available, but they always swap out the parts for Sanwas.


My seimitsu lb-39 bubbletop has a grey/white spot at the top is this normal? I’m thinking about exchanging it for another.


Got photos of this?


I’ve seen this mark on photos of the lb-39 but they don’t have a white/grey outline like mine. Here’s a link from paradisearcade and you can see the mark with no white/grey outline. https://paradisearcadeshop.com/seimitsu-lb-39/212-seimitsu-lb-39-red.html

Here’s my balltop. http://tinypic.com/r/zuf2hy/9
I’ve tried rubbing it off with a towel, but the marking remains.


I am not quite seeing it. Try something mild like dish soap and see if you can remove it.


@Opticallever the spot at the top is plastic-flash that’s been cut off after the molding process. That’s normal. I just checked all my Seimitsu bubbletops and they have the same mark.

Don’t get stuck looking for the perfect eggs.


Hi, im aware this is not entirely fightstick related. But I feel very nervous and I have doubts.
I recently got a debit visa card, and since a long time ago, I wanted a SCV stick that was only available (at a reasonable price) in play asia.
There was only 1 left in stock, I really liked that stick, so I asked a friend if I could pay in play asia with my new debit card. So I went in asap and proceeded to do the checkout.
And then, when all done. It came down to this


I just want to know if from here, everything will be alright, I don’t want the mail to get the wrong adress, if that happens, I can talk to play asia and they will help right?, or that something get’s cancelled and I lose my money. It’s the first time I buy stuff from here so… thank you,


On my balltop it has an obvious white outline, I tried cleaning it with some dish soap but it’s still there. The whitish outline doesn’t show up well and the photo. The indentation mark would be fine if it had no white outline around it.


I really don’t see the issue here. It looks fine to me. If you’re unhappy, then just hit them up in the [PAS thread](Paradise Arcade Shop, LED Joysticks, Buttons, Mods and more and see what they can do for you.


What other places do you guys sell arcade stuff on nowadays? The trading outlet is still good but it doesn’t get a whole lot of traffic.

Edit: another question, what’s the deal with the Panthera’s top panel? Is it possible to replace it with a custom one to use a different button layout?


Hi all,

First-time poster, long-time reader of this site.

I have a quick (and hopefully easily answered question): what size are the screws used for the madcatz fightstick pro to secure the plexi down?

I have lost the screws that came included with the plexi from arthong and am trying to put together an xmas present for my wife.

I started my holidays today and thought I would begin the project, however am stuck before I can even begin!!!

Any help would be most appreciated.



M4x12mm Hex screws. Note however that the head on those has a 3mm hex drive slot, which might be hard to find (depending on where you’re located on Earth). 2.5mm hex drive headed variants are easier to source (at least in the US), but you’ll need the appropriate hex driver to fasten/loosen. Check Focusattack.com for both screws and the hex driver. I believe they have the screws in 5 colors too.