Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)


Also worth adding that you could sell the hacked 360 pad with that imp board and recoup some of your losses.

Here’s the encoder I mentioned: http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-ZD-USB-Encoder-PC-PS2-PS3-to-Joystick-for-MAME-Arcade-Fight-Stick-Control-/171182655665?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27db4808b1

The downside of that option would be that you wouldn’t be able to use your pass through without doing some modification to the cable or adding a cable- nothing tough, but it might be intimidating to someone unfamiliar with stick mods and wiring. If you wanted to keep the RJ45 pass through, you could solder a 1’ cat5 cable to the USB pins (following the correct cat5 configuration for ground, voltage, data+, and data-, of course) and leave the included cable out altogether (which will likely be way too long to fit in the case, unless you’ve got plenty of vertical clearance). If you can make the included cable fit inside, you would need to swap the pass through for a USB jack.

All this said, replacing the Cthulhu is obviously also an option. You could do a “fresh install” and keep it solderless (would also require a USB pass through). Personally, I would use the ZD in this case, as it’s cheaper and comes with all the wiring (not to mention as easy as it gets to install for someone new).


Any chance you guys know what kind of screw goes on the metal plate of the jotstick on the etokki omni rev3? Just received this etokki omni case and the screws from an older TE do no properly secret the joystick in it or what size is the screw


Have there been any fightsticks that work by being pressure sensitive rather than position sensitive? That is to say, fightsticks where the stick moves very little in response to pressure.


An easy way to address issues like this is to take the stick or a sample screw to a hardware store. Threaded screwholes in that stick are likely to be metric.


you mean like analog joysticks? they’re working with one in the smash controller thread Project: Dedicated Smash Bros Arcade Stick - Update - Seimitsu LS-64 in action!. there are some arcade games that use analog joysticks also but just about every fighting game i know is designed for digital joystick inputs.


Most arcade games that use analog are later model Flight Sims or Driving titles.
There no actual fighting game that uses Analog. And I disagree with the whole Smash bros Argument and Analog.


Since the Madcatz SF x T fightpad for xbox 360 seem scarce, what is another pad that is good to use for dualmodding my Round 1 PS3 TE stick? Sorry if this has been answered multiple times/wrong thread.


Mad catz brawlpad. If you can’t get a mad catz fight/brawl pad, get a mad catz 4716 controller (getting the triggers to work properly will require hex inverters, though you could keep it easy and go 6 button). Rock candy pads seem popular here as of late (cheap and common ground), but I can’t personally attest to using one.


The 360 Rock Candy controllers are $20 each at Toys R Us, are common ground, and easy to padhack. No trigger inversion needed. Price match if needed, as it’s $25 everywhere else.

CLICK HERE for full size


Sweet, didn’t know you could skip the inverters on those.

SRK Lounge: More like turned on by Lesbian Seagulls

You may be able to revive it by buying a replacement IC from toodles. I’ve had to replace the IC once or twice due to some issues I’ve encountered and that cleared them up. they’re listed as the “MC Cthulhu Upgrade Kit” You’ll only need the IC.


Awesome, what pcb is that on the right?


The pcb are in this order
xbox 360, v 2 imp and a cthlhu


What’s a fairly inexpensive soldering iron? I had a weller 25w and it just died on me in the middle of a project. I’m also looking for something with a smaller tip as well.


I was going to recommend the soldering iron you had died


i’ve been keeping a 5 dollar 30w iron from walmart for about two years now. the tips wear away with extensive use but i find cheap replacements on amazon or ebay. i have to use a fresh tip for the projects that require more precision but it works well most of the time.


I use clear RTV (Dow Corning 732) instead of glue. Can cover the whole board if you want and it’ll peel off without causing any damage whatsoever.

Still holds well enough under fightstick levels of stress, although arguably its not as strong as glue.


Hey guys, I’m new here. So I looked into the hrap v4 and the new madcatz te2( persona edition looks amazing) and from what I’ve read they’re pretty much the same in terms of quality.

I read the input lag thread(bad idea) that said mad catz is not that good, I know I shouldn’t worry since the hrap v4 and te2 haven’t been tested but now I’m not sure.

I’m also I complete noob about this, I grew up in arcades with battops and really do not like the lollipop top, it’s just feels so weird to me but that can easily be replaced. Also,I hate that the hori buttons go under the rim and don’t stick out like the te2 which I guess I can also mod.

What I’m getting at is I’m really confused as to which one will be betterfor someone that grew up in American arcades but that other thread about the input delay made it more difficult for me to decide, any help would be really appreciated.


Without either of those being tested (or anything being tested on new gen consoles), I wouldn’t worry about lag. Based on features alone (as I haven’t used either stick), I would take the te2 over the v4. The flip top would be very convenient, and a detachable usb cable much better than the shitty cable door the v4 has.


So I’m gonna dual mod my ps3 round 1 TE with the IMP + some 360 controller but I’m still a bit confused on how it will work, please correct me if I am wrong.

  1. I’m gonna take the USB cable and desolder the one side from the TE and connect to the IMP as described by the PDF
  2. I’m gonna take the USB cable from the 360 controller and connect it to the IMP as describe by the PDF, but I’ll be cutting off the end that would connect to the console, not desoldering anything.
  3. Then I need to split the inputs from the stick and buttons by soldering a wire to each quick disconnect and the other end to the appropriate spot on the 360 controller.

Is this correct so far?