Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)


Then get the lighter spring AND the Cherry mod. Mix and match and decide based on your experience. Chalk up the expense to finding your own inner Goldilocks. Most people just stick with the stock button and stick feel. If you want to fine tune things, ya gotta pay to play.


Can anyone tell me what I need from the Razer Panthera part below to wire to my brook UFB?


Did you buy the UFB yet? Because if not, then just buy the following:


Yes, I bought the non ezmod one because my cable broke and it reuses the cable. Everything but that one piece is wired up and ready to go.


Answering my own question for posterity.


This is exactly the effect I was hoping for. Seems like I’ll need to enclose the screw portion and the led itself to prevent too muck light from leaking out, but other than it’s perfect. Hopefully someone somewhere in the internet-future will benefit from this information.


The link in the PS360+ firmware manual redirects to http://www.microchip.com/

In the search box, you can type Flip and it should be one of the first links you can click on. The newest versions of the program are located there.


Do Brook PCBs (PS3/PS4 board and UFB) not work on PS4 pro? I’ve tried both on different PS4 pros on multiple occasions and the console doesn’t detect it at all, but the exact same boards work fine on regular PS4s (and computers). Do I have to do anything special?


The PS4 Pro doesn’t supply enough power to the front USB ports for the Brook PCBs to work. SO you will either have A) Get a Powered USB hub or B) Plug the Brook USB to the back of the PS4 Pro’s USB port.


I played KOFIV last night for three hours with my UFB-equipped TE.
Guess what was being used? The front-left USB port on a PS4 Pro.

I just plugged my other stick with an original Brook PS3/4 board and played in SFV for two matches.

@LLeg3nd does the low-power thing happen when both front ports are used?
@blankaex Have you updated your firmware to the latest?


Nope, only thing i have plugged in is just the Brook PS4 Audio Fighting Board (micro USB). It’s the same with my friend’s Pro as well.


Ah that’s how it is, gotcha.

Yeah, latest firmware on both always.


Sorry for the probable dumb question, but would anyone know or would anyone be able to point in the direction of where to find out what the tension of the spring is in a Qanba Dragon?


Interesting. I have sticks with the little square PS3/PS4 board that’s a generation older, sans audio… and sticks with UFB’s. Both types of sticks work on the Pro’s front ports with zero problems. Perhaps it’s something with those particular board models. I wonder if the USB breakout board with the audio port might be the source of the issue. Have you tested everything with sticks with other Brook boards?


Are there any recommended mods for my Hrap4? I’m planning on playing a lot of Dragon Ball FighterZ. So far it feels like some of my movements don’t register.


On Many Sony consoles, Some computer motherboards, and so on the USB host is a little stingy with their power requests. They only want to give so many amps to devices.
This is actually a safety feature to prevent the overloading of power delivery on the motherboard.

I seen it happen on the Original Launch PS4s, most models of the PS3, and the slim PS2s. I also see this happen on Some PC motherboards and some macs.
For a PC, if its compatible the easy solution is to use a USB 3.0 port instead of a 2.0 port. On consoles the work around is a powered Hub.


Yeah, but why is this only happening PS4+ Audio boards? Or is it just some systems that are power-stingy?


Many systems are just power stingy by default. There only so much power thats allowed to be given with standard USB 2.0 protocols.
And its up to the individual USB Controller on the motherboard of that system to decide how much of that protocol’s power rules actually apply.

USB 3.0 does not have this issue, as it’s built for taking request up to +15 volts on whats typically a +5 volt bus with the more than 3 times the current as well.
(but a device has to request the extra power).

Audio amp on the Audio boards require slightly more watts than a typical USB board, and many USB hosts are very power-stingy.
With the USB handshake between Host and device, the device request a certain amount of watts, and the Host can approve or disprove.

We actually see this issue all the time with Sticks with LEDs in them. It also might be (but highly unlikely) the USB encoder on the UFB Audio only requesting power for the UFB USB functions and not the Audio side.

Using arbitrary and probability wrong numbers here, but this is to illustrate whats going on.

Senario 1 (unlikely Senario)
Its like I am a USB Encoder on a UFB board, I need 400 milliamps to do my job and the USB host only gives enough with a max of 500 milliamps, and the Audio side wants 130 for it self.
The USB host sees my request for 400 and not give any more, but because of the Audio there isn’t enough power being delivered.

Scenario 2 (most likely scenario)
I am a USB encoder, I asked for 530 but the host only gives out a Max of 500 and told me I am Shit out of luck.

With a USB Powered Hub Senario
The USB Hub "It’s cool boss I got the power requests, you just handle the data that I am repeating to you"
USB Host “Copy that, you are cleared hot”


Alright PS3 Madcatz TE Fightstick item #8838, windows 10 machine with z170x ultra gaming motherboard i7 chipset, i want to play DBZ and i just can’t get it to work.

Shows up as PC USB wired stick 8838 but wont take any input commands, the way I understand it this stick is one of the original ones and jsut won’t work do i need to buy a new stick or change the joystick board or what ?


If your TE is one of the originals, the OG (Round 1) or Round 2 sticks, then there are incompatibility issues with many PC motherboards.
The issue was reported as mostly with non-Intel chip sets on mother boards, but later Intel boards has the issue anyways due to most boards abandoning the old USB 1.1 UHCI protocols
The Old TE is completely incompatible with USB 3.0/3.1

It could be also a unrelated problem that DBFZ could be Xinput only and Every Model Mad Catz PS3 stick supports only Dinput.

You are bets off changing out the board inside with something compatible


what do you suggest for changing the the board inside, i have no experience with that, but from what i have seen its pretty straight forward.