You may be able to revive it by buying a replacement IC from toodles. I’ve had to replace the IC once or twice due to some issues I’ve encountered and that cleared them up. they’re listed as the “MC Cthulhu Upgrade Kit” You’ll only need the IC.
Awesome, what pcb is that on the right?
The pcb are in this order
xbox 360, v 2 imp and a cthlhu
What’s a fairly inexpensive soldering iron? I had a weller 25w and it just died on me in the middle of a project. I’m also looking for something with a smaller tip as well.
I was going to recommend the soldering iron you had died
i’ve been keeping a 5 dollar 30w iron from walmart for about two years now. the tips wear away with extensive use but i find cheap replacements on amazon or ebay. i have to use a fresh tip for the projects that require more precision but it works well most of the time.
I use clear RTV (Dow Corning 732) instead of glue. Can cover the whole board if you want and it’ll peel off without causing any damage whatsoever.
Still holds well enough under fightstick levels of stress, although arguably its not as strong as glue.
Hey guys, I’m new here. So I looked into the hrap v4 and the new madcatz te2( persona edition looks amazing) and from what I’ve read they’re pretty much the same in terms of quality.
I read the input lag thread(bad idea) that said mad catz is not that good, I know I shouldn’t worry since the hrap v4 and te2 haven’t been tested but now I’m not sure.
I’m also I complete noob about this, I grew up in arcades with battops and really do not like the lollipop top, it’s just feels so weird to me but that can easily be replaced. Also,I hate that the hori buttons go under the rim and don’t stick out like the te2 which I guess I can also mod.
What I’m getting at is I’m really confused as to which one will be betterfor someone that grew up in American arcades but that other thread about the input delay made it more difficult for me to decide, any help would be really appreciated.
Without either of those being tested (or anything being tested on new gen consoles), I wouldn’t worry about lag. Based on features alone (as I haven’t used either stick), I would take the te2 over the v4. The flip top would be very convenient, and a detachable usb cable much better than the shitty cable door the v4 has.
So I’m gonna dual mod my ps3 round 1 TE with the IMP + some 360 controller but I’m still a bit confused on how it will work, please correct me if I am wrong.
- I’m gonna take the USB cable and desolder the one side from the TE and connect to the IMP as described by the PDF
- I’m gonna take the USB cable from the 360 controller and connect it to the IMP as describe by the PDF, but I’ll be cutting off the end that would connect to the console, not desoldering anything.
- Then I need to split the inputs from the stick and buttons by soldering a wire to each quick disconnect and the other end to the appropriate spot on the 360 controller.
Is this correct so far?
1 - Why desolder the USB cable from the PS3 TE PCB? Just snip the USB cable (with a bit extra length than expected) to solder to the Imp. You could even re-use your USB cord you’d still only lose out on perhaps a combined one foot of the whole cable.
2 - No desoldering needed, just like I mentioned above.
3 - You could do it on the quick disconnects (QDC) but it’s a lot easier to do on the bottom of the QDC terminal. Whichever you do, make sure you aware which side is ground and which side is signals.
See photo I took and edited below for help on 1 and 2
I have a question: Are Kuro buttons bad? I’ve heard they’re worse than Sanwa’s, but are they legit bad? I want to buy a Hori V4 and read the respective thread. However I would like some more information (it’s the cheapest stick in amazon.uk and the hayabusa has good credibility from what I’ve seen). It’s my first stick so I guess I’m not picky.
I have some GamerFinger buttons and I have a couple of issues and I’d like some insight. I bought the buttons due to curiosity (also picked up blue switches to try as well) and aesthetic reasons.
The first issue is the metal contacts of the Cherry MX switches do not make a solid connection at all times. Randomly one of my buttons will simply stop working or won’t work on every press (even though it could work for hours). Is there a way to increase the reliability of the connection between connection of the prongs on the bottom of the cherry mx switch with the button casing? Obviously soldering isn’t an option here. I could glue in the buttons and hope that removing all movement fixes the issue but I figured I’d ask if there was something else I could also do. This might change the way the buttons feel in a negative way but right now it’s either that or replace them. I do plan on gluing the buttons in still which leads me to my second issue.
If you slap buttons with a downward motion where your fingers slide across the buttons as you hit, the Gamerfinger buttons will pop out. Last night I went to an event and a guy there did his normal Fuerte run/stop with the buttons and two of them popped out. He then got pretty much all of them to pop out. Apparently, the way I play the buttons don’t fly out but I was able to replicate it myself and it’s so crazy easy to do. I plan on gluing the button tops in so I don’t really need advice on this particular issue but I figured I’d post this here in case somebody else had the same problem.
There’s nothing wrong with the Kuro buttons, some people just prefer Sanwa or Seimitsu or whatever else. For people’s opinions you may want to read the comments in the [Hori Fighting Edge topic](HORI Fighting EDGE as that I believe was the first stick they released with Kuro buttons and the Hayabusa joystick.
It all comes down to personal preference. Although no one preferred the old Hori buttons in PS2 sticks over Sanwa and Seimitsu, many people enjoy Hori’s new products.
Kuro buttons are on par with Sanwa buttons when it comes to quality.
Kuros have a larger plunger area than Sanwa and Seimitsu buttons
but the one down side is Kuros tend to squeek until you broken the buttons in a bit.
@PresidentCamacho well, the v4 is sold out and I don’t think they’ll have it again for a while and gg xrd is coming out in about a week so I guess te2 it is, I was gonna buy both since I have the money but kinda felt like a waste of money. Anyway, thanks for the reply.
Awesome example, this helps greatly. And the USB that connects directly to the console will be soldered onto the top of IMP, correct? Also for point 3, what do you mean “bottom of the QDC terminal?”
Sorry for so many questions, but I appreciate it alot!
That’s not really the top of the PCB, but due to the way it’s positioned in the photo I know what you mean, so yes.
I stated what QDC was in the same sentence with (parenthesis).
Quick Disconnect = QDC
The .110 quick disconnects are on the wires going from the QDC terminal to the buttons.
Instead of pulling away the plastic on the wires and soldering to the QDCs, just unscrew the QDC Terminal and solder to the bottom of the terminal.
This is what the terminal looks like:
Photo stolen from JDM’s photobucket
This what the bottom of the terminal looks like (ignore the blue wire for your purpose):
Photo stolen from Clayton’s website
As mentioned, just take note on which side the ground and signals are and be sure you’re solding the 360 PCB signals to the signal side of the terminal. If you’re not sure which side is which, use a multimeter and check for continuity. If you don’t have a multimeter, you should be able to tell signal side just by looking, as the ground side is all one piece, and the signal side has individual traces on the PCB for each signal.
No prob. Perhaps tinkering will inspire you to start modding more (for the fun of it). Everyone gets their start modding somehow, and my knowledge wasn’t far from yours 4 years ago.
Simple question that I just can’t find the answer too. I have a custom stick with a ps360. How would I make that compatible to play on PS4.
I understand I will have to padhack a DS4, but I’m not sure I have the tools nor patience to do that now. So what would I need or who can i pay to get this done quickly lol.
It would be treated like any other Dual Mod. I would suggest reading though the Dual Mod 101 thread Dual modding 101
There would be a couple of ways to set up how would you switch between the PS360+ and the PS4 PCB. V2 IMP board, a DPDT switch and by cable select (multiple cables) would be the methods that come to mind.