Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

Kuro buttons are on par with Sanwa buttons when it comes to quality.
Kuros have a larger plunger area than Sanwa and Seimitsu buttons
but the one down side is Kuros tend to squeek until you broken the buttons in a bit.

@PresidentCamacho‌ well, the v4 is sold out and I don’t think they’ll have it again for a while and gg xrd is coming out in about a week so I guess te2 it is, I was gonna buy both since I have the money but kinda felt like a waste of money. Anyway, thanks for the reply.

Awesome example, this helps greatly. And the USB that connects directly to the console will be soldered onto the top of IMP, correct? Also for point 3, what do you mean “bottom of the QDC terminal?”

Sorry for so many questions, but I appreciate it alot!

That’s not really the top of the PCB, but due to the way it’s positioned in the photo I know what you mean, so yes.

I stated what QDC was in the same sentence with (parenthesis).
Quick Disconnect = QDC

The .110 quick disconnects are on the wires going from the QDC terminal to the buttons.
Instead of pulling away the plastic on the wires and soldering to the QDCs, just unscrew the QDC Terminal and solder to the bottom of the terminal.

This is what the terminal looks like:

Photo stolen from JDM’s photobucket

This what the bottom of the terminal looks like (ignore the blue wire for your purpose):

Photo stolen from Clayton’s website

As mentioned, just take note on which side the ground and signals are and be sure you’re solding the 360 PCB signals to the signal side of the terminal. If you’re not sure which side is which, use a multimeter and check for continuity. If you don’t have a multimeter, you should be able to tell signal side just by looking, as the ground side is all one piece, and the signal side has individual traces on the PCB for each signal.

No prob. Perhaps tinkering will inspire you to start modding more (for the fun of it). :slight_smile: Everyone gets their start modding somehow, and my knowledge wasn’t far from yours 4 years ago.

Simple question that I just can’t find the answer too. I have a custom stick with a ps360. How would I make that compatible to play on PS4.

I understand I will have to padhack a DS4, but I’m not sure I have the tools nor patience to do that now. So what would I need or who can i pay to get this done quickly lol.

It would be treated like any other Dual Mod. I would suggest reading though the Dual Mod 101 thread Dual modding 101

There would be a couple of ways to set up how would you switch between the PS360+ and the PS4 PCB. V2 IMP board, a DPDT switch and by cable select (multiple cables) would be the methods that come to mind.

I’m looking more for an educational answer rather than a “fix without understanding” answer.
What triggers the activation of a button on a board? Is it connecting it to a certain part of the board (gnd/vcc/other button) that triggers the activation or is there something else? Is it possible to do this deliberately?

Where this comes into play is that I know that the MCC boards need to be updated to ensure that they work properly with IMPv2 boards. The new IMP came a USB port installed, so I can just plug in the board and see that it is detected. However, going into bootloader mode needs start and select to be activated prior to the board booting up. In addition, in the past my other stick had this problem of buttons being activated and I didn’t know what exactly caused it, so I just rewired the entire board.

Button activation (for common ground PCBs) is detected when you connect a signal line to ground.

There is Low logic where the voltage drops triggers the input, and there high logic where an increase of voltage equals a input.
I believe (but I could be wrong) that the Cthulhu works on logic low.

For refrance, the “analog” for triggers (L2 and R2) on the Sony PS3 SIX AXIS and Dual Shock 3 controllers are Logic High and Low. With one being a hard press and the other a soft press.

For true analog like the XBOX 360 triggers or any analog thumb stick, there a few more “steps” with various voltage levels represents a step (location on the X, Y or Z axis) in the game’s logic.

I have one of those fancy schmancy soldering irons where you can put in the temperature, what temp should I be using for dual mod? I got it on clearance :smiley:

Thank you for that explanation. I’ve never really thought of why buttons had their own ground line in addition to their own unique line.
I’m tired of just looking at diagrams and trying to emulate them rather than understanding the actual mechanics and reasoning why/how it works. I really appreciate the answer, thanks again.

I was able to ground start and select with random wires to get cthulhu into bootloader mode and update the firmware. I felt like a mad scientist.

Too much heat is bad for the board. Not enough heat is going to cause some bad solder joints. I like to keep my Weller Digital Soldering Iron at about 660 Degrees F and it seems to do the trick. Mine may be too hot for some peoples liking, though so further input would be most appreciated. :smiley:

I use around 256C with leaded (60/40) solder. For soldering to ground planes, don’t be afraid to kick it up around 10 degrees. Even if it’s temperature-regulated, you’ll have to leave the iron on the plane for quite some time before it can be worked with, and if it cools down you could lose a lot of time re-heating it each time.

Lead-free solder also needs a bit more heat, so the numbers Lemony is quoting sound about right for that. I was in the mid-low 300’s (Celsius) last time I worked with lead-free.

In either case the the thermistor should be reporting something around 10-20% higher than the melting point of your solder, as the shielding and the tip will inevitably become dirtied with (even proper) use, and will conduct heat less efficiently. Even a brand new iron will not be able to catch up with the rate at which the solder will cool down by contact with air and the board, so you have to overshoot.

Irrelevant now.

Just to clarify on some of the concepts which Darksakul has mentioned, what he is referring to as “low logic” and “high logic” are commonly called “low side” and “high side” respectively. A low side switching IC or circuit operates between the signal and negative voltage (or ground) whereas high side operates between the signal and positive voltage (commonly VCC, +5V on USB, for example). If your controller is expecting a button input to be registered by shorting the signal line to ground, then the switch is a low side switch. Alternatively, if your input is shorting signal to voltage, the button is considered a high side switch.

The terminology is more important when you get into digital switching, controlled by various ICs or microprocessors (an LED driver IC is a good example of how this might be used).

Another note; when a board is referred to as common ground it means that all of the inputs are registered by shorting their various respective signal lines to the same ground (low).

Some boards, in rare instances, may be common high, but generally when you do not have a common ground board it is because there are multiple “reference grounds”.

Ground is simply a relative term we use to describe a path through which a current can travel, but which carries a resistance varying per design. Earth ground, for instance, is approximately 1MOhm (1 million Ohms) and is often interchanged with infinite resistance because it is almost impossible for a current to travel through a conductor with such high resistance, and the voltage (difference between the signal and ground) is effectively made to be zero. Imagine trying to complete a circuit by using soil as a conductor, essentially the same idea; the circuit is open, so the voltage of the circuit is zero because no current can flow. There are some nuances, but they aren’t important for the moment.

When you have multiple reference grounds, you can have different inputs going to the same signal line on a controller’s PCB. Where you originally might have had earth ground be your only reference and you could only use one signal line per input because the same input would be registered, regardless of what button would be completing that circuit. Now take 6 buttons on different reference grounds; let’s arbitrarily pick different resistances far enough apart from each other that they could be reliably interpreted (try 30Ohm, 100Ohm, 300Ohm, 1kOhm, 3kOhm, 10kOhm). Each button has a different resistance assigned to its own ground line, which necessitates that it always be connected to that specific reference ground (whereas we could freely swap them with common ground). When the button with a reference ground of 1kOhm is pressed, the chip on the controller will see a 1kOhm resistance and interpret that as button 4. Any of the other buttons could be pressed and the resistance sent along the same signal conductor to the chip, and the chip could correctly interpret each (even with simultaneous presses, as the resistance would add in a predictable manner). If one does this for every major group of buttons of a controller, they can possibly save on manufacturing costs by purchasing a chip with less input/signal pins.

Also, I should clarify that analog and digital are fundamentally very different in terms of signal structure. In analog signals, there is no stepping, only a smooth and continuous range of values which is infinitely divisible. An analog stick reports a voltage via the wiper pin of either axis which will shift smoothly between the voltage it is supplied and ground. In neutral position, it is at the average voltage of positive and negative voltage (just voltage divided by two, assuming we have ground as negative voltage).
By contrast, a d-pad, which sends boolean (on/off) signals is not capable of sending any range. To reiterate, analog signals are continuous and involve an infinite amount of steps, whereas digital signals (at their base) involve one step.

@SirAlucard‌

The spring goes between the actuator and the spring pressure plate.

Most solder sold in the US is lead free. damn FDA. :stuck_out_tongue:

Dangerous stuff gets the job done, first rule of working with chemicals (and many other things). I have my ways ;).

I have a question regarding the Killer Instinct TE2 XBOX One arcade stick. I was watching one of the videos from Markman - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=on4xiEI9TP4&list=UUY1QTCRwletLhK6Ya9OPd2g to be specific and it shows them installing Gamerfinger Buttons into the stick. I had previously installed these in one of my old Round 1 TE’s and while the fit was extremely tight, they did ultimately fit in the case without a problem. When I removed them and decided to put them into my TE2, they don’t seem to fit correctly. The Sanwa buttons seem to be slightly wider at the top of the button so the rim ever so slightly sits on the plexiglass and the snaps properly snap into the stick. With the Gamerfinger buttons, the buttons will snap into the stick but it seems like they are somehow further sunken in than they should be and they are loose, they will spin in a circle. There is space between the button rim and the snap which seems to be causing the button to be loose. What I was wondering is if I need to purchase a TE2 replacement plexiglass panel from Tek-Innovations - http://tek-innovations.mediathree.net/arthobbies/index.cfm?loc=products&cat=21&subcat=&item=190 in order to use the Gamerfinger buttons for this particular stick. Is there a difference between the Killer Instinct TE2 and say a 360 TE2 as far as button holes? Just not really understanding why these won’t fit seeing as they are both 30mm holes yet the TE2 holes are definitely slightly bigger for one reason or another. Any help or suggestions with how to achieve this would be much appreciated.

I don’t think its the FDA that banned leaded solder.
There no actual ban in the US, there is a ban in the EU.

Its just easier for international manufacturers to make only one version of a product instead of 2, a lead and non lead versions.

My issue with unleaded solder is not health, environmental, or that unleaded solder sucks for soldering.
its tin whiskers


http://nepp.nasa.gov/Whisker/background/index.htm

Thanks for the answers for the temp! I have two last questions in regards to the IMP + Rock candy pad dualmod. How do I hook up the directionals? Do I need to somehow split the wires for the directional stick? Also, How do I attach the Home button so it will still work? Do I solder under the actual home button or is there a way to solder to the home button without taking the button out?