Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

Anything from 22 awg stranded to 28 awg stranded. I usually stick to 24 or 26 awg. 30 is too thin and its hard to work with, I only use it for certain mods. And 20 is too thick.
Stay away from solid core unless you are not moving the wires alot and you want to have some ridged wire for designs or something.

Try the LS-40-01 its one of my favorites. Make sure you get the s-plate to get the right mount height

I did not but again it might be pc? Not sure if that’s on ps4, I briefly skimmed through the video

Hello. I have a BrawlStick and have been thinking of replacing the buttons, since some of them are giving out. I read that I should replace them with Sanwa OBSF-30 buttons. I was wondering if I could instead use screw-in buttons instead, since the original buttons are snap-in and they currently rotate and shake when mounted. Would this be possible and would it help to solve my issue? Thanks.

Yes, but for the left-most button on the bottom row, the joystick mounting plate gets in the way of the screw-in nut. You’ll either have to bend the mount with pliers to make space or have just that one button be a snap-in

Thank you so much!

Hi, hope this isn’t a stupid question…

I decided to try a Seimitsu LS-32-01 in my HRAP v3 SA. It looks like the Seimitsu stick will fit just fine, it just seems to use the two middle screw holes on the mounting plate instead of the four corner ones that the included stick used. But when I tried to put the screws in, they would only go in a little bit, I tried to get them in further but they won’t budge. So I guess I need new screws, even though the middle screw holes look the same size as the corner ones. So what screws do I need? Or am I just not doing something right? I’m sure I have the screws going in straight…

Or maybe those holes do not have threads cut into them

Ugh, and me without a thread-cutting device…
Is there something else I can use besides screws, then?

You could use a thinner bolt and have a nut on the other side.

Anyone know the weight of a TE2?
All I can seem to find are shipping weight and not an actual stick weight.

its approx 8/9 pounds, closer to 10 or 11 if you count the box and all the packaging

Oh wow, I have an older HRAP3 that’s only 5lbs, I didn’t expect it to be heavier than that, thanks for the info.

Hmm, I don’t know if there’s enough space for me to line up a nut and screw it on tight enough…
Man, I thought v3 SAs were supposed to be easy to mod… Has anyone else had this problem? Did I buy the wrong kind of stick? I forget which thread, but I could’ve sworn this stick would work in a v3 SA…

I’m sure that’s been done a few times before. You got pics of how much space you’ve got to work with, or what size nuts/screws you’re using?

It looks like this: http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b181/jsdst5/Mobile%20Uploads/tmp_11187-DSC_0198-774792133.jpg
That plate looks like it’s welded on, and with the plastic from the casing in the way, there’s no way I can tighten a nut under there unless I can get a wrench that’s got an L-shaped handle and can fit into 4mm spaces.
But looking at the middle holes more closely, it seems that they are threaded, but the threads are pitched closer together than the corner holes. So I guess I do just need different screws.

Hi,

More a “have I done a dumb thing” than the more sensible “should I do this potentially dumb thing” style question here :smiley:

I grabbed this stick -

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hori-Ultimate-Marvel-vs-Capcom-3-Fighting-Arcade-Stick-for-Xbox-360-Brand-New-/331068734740?hash=item4d153bfd14

which I understand is a branded Hori VX SA - not any particular choice of mine, just, the aussie dollar collapsing has made any non-~2011 era stick that was bought by a local store when the dollar was at USD$ parity very pricey. Plus, 10% off ebay coupon on it was nice. Only later found out some people apparently have problems getting this stick detected in windows, still I have enough different laptops/OSs around to throw it on something it’ll hopefully agree with.

Mainly intending to use it for digital input games PC - actually it was the fantastic new port of DARIUSBURST Chronicle Saviours on steam that got me to get a stick at all, but I’ve also got a long term MAME and other emu habit. But anyway - the idea is to use it for both shmups and fighting games as a general ‘arcade’ stick rather than a ‘fight’ stick.

I read some guides that basically seemed to suggest that the square restrictor and sanwa buttons were perhaps a matter of taste and people who use a stick for general emulation purposes and shmups could possibly be happier with an octagonal restrictor, shorter throw on the stick and the seimitsu style buttons.

With that in mind I picked up -

2lb Tension Spring for Sanwa JLF

Kowal 1mm Oversize Actuator for Sanwa JLF Series Joystick

Sanwa GT-Y Octagonal Restrictor Gate

Sanwa LB-30N-CW Translucent Battop: Clear

Seimitsu PS-14-K 30mm Snap In Pushbutton: Smoke

from focusattack - not necessarily all to use at once immediately, just, so that I have the option of using them if I don’t really bond with the default stick so much.

As far as I know - the buttons should be easy enough to drop in and replace? But I’m wondering if I’ve messed up with the stick stuff. Does all this actually work on the stick that comes with the VX SA? I’m having a hard time tracking down what specific model of stick it is other than “sanwa” (at the time - I did not know this could mean several different kinds of sanwa stick) and Hori’s stick naming system seems to make it a pain to google that specific bit of info.

Looks fine to me

That hori uses sanwa parts including the stick

OK, cool. Could have predicted this would happen - but naturally, googling around some more after making a big post about it, I found a review on amazon where someone lists the actual models of what’s in it -

Stick: Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT-SK (Square Restrictor Plate)
Buttons: Sanwa OBSF-30
Start Button: Sanwa OBSF-24

Now to just wait for it all to arrive and hope nobody gets electrocuted pulling it apart :smiley:

If you have trouble getting it to work on your pc, the cheapest fix would likely be to swap in a PC encoder. Since you’re in Australia, I’d get a zero delay one from a Chinese seller on ebay if that’s the case.