Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

Yeah, I’ve already run into a similar issue with the Saitek X-52 Pro failing to work when I upgraded my PC (the intel z97 usb3 controller hates it to the point where running the stick’s driver installer in xhci mode will cause hard locks) and had to get an addon PCIE USB controller for it to work, so at least on the main PC there are a couple of things I can try right away. Have seen a few different people run into problems with the VX SA and later work it out though so even if I do run into issues - hopefully something can be worked out before I need to try getting a new encoder.

Amazes me that of all the complicated things that run over USB, and about couple of decades now to shake out compatibility - a plain old box with the simplest possible functionality with digital switches / hall sensors in can still run into these problems.

Does Xpadder add input lag? SFV doesn’t support Direct Input devices so I’ve been forced to use it for my stick with MC Cthulhu.

OK, went to a store in Akihabara that specializes in screws, and they didn’t have anything with thinner threads. But I got out my Dead or Alive 5 RAP (which I was also planning on putting a Seimitsu stick in) and saw that it’s middle holes don’t have threads at all. So it does indeed look like I’ll have to make the threads myself. Googled in Japanese and found this page: http://blog.goo.ne.jp/takipony_2005/e/8e6f503ad354491ed9f621b149c6f231 So I’ll have to buy those tools for cutting the threads. Sheesh, this turned out to be way much more trouble than I thought it would.

I had the same issue and I just brute forced it. Unless that ruins the bracket why not just do that?

You could have bought a different Mounting Plate for your LS-32-01 to use the corner screw holes.

Anyone from Canada (or even more specifically, Ontario) have experience buying stuff from akishop? Do you get kicked in the ass by duties and such? I want to order an LS-56 and some accessories for it (shaft, dustwasher and octo-gate), but even after converting from Yen to Canadian Dollars and applying HST, the price seems too good to be true, so I wonder if there’s something else I should be factoring in.

Has anyone tried a ps2>ps3 converter in the pstv that’s wasn’t the inpin? Want to use my old modded mayflash on my pstv but those inpins are hard to find nowadays and not usually cheap.

Customs/duties seems randomly chosen to me from anywhere I order(out of Canada of course), If I go over $100 I expect to get hit with it sometimes I do sometimes I don’t, I don’t think I’ve ever gotten any extra charges for ordering under $70-80 unless it’s clothing. Some people say shipping matters too, EMS more likely to get extra charges and SAL not so much.
¯_(ツ)_/¯

PROBLEM:

I love Logitech products and have never had issues with them in the past whether it be a mouse, keyboard, webcam or whatever else, but the wires on the G27s are absolute shit. The rubber coating is frail and chips and cuts easily, and the wires inside are 30 AWG so they aren’t tough.

The connectors for the power (out), USB (out), pedals (in), and shifter (in) are all on the bottom of the steering wheel which makes things difficult when putting them together and taking them apart with Playseat racing chairs which I do for gaming rooms at events. Diagram below shows 3 of the 4 connectors (not showing USB for some reason)

http://forums.logitech.com/t5/image/serverpage/image-id/11045i514B9AA6EA477CF6

If the chairs weren’t adjusted or shifted by event attendees, and were consistently set up in 1 location all the time it wouldn’t be as much of a problem, but we set them up and break them down at every event. We also find ourselves taping the seat in place at these events to prevent people from accidentally moving it while sitting down, standing up, and driving etc.
We also have been taping the wires down in specific spots to prevent an accidental pull with feet or due to moving the entire setup.

**
SOLUTION:**

Rewire the G27s and mount Male/Female connectors on the top of the wheel for easy assembly/disassembly.
A photo of the top and back of the wheel where I’ll mount the connectors can be seen below, which is a photo of a modded G27-

I’d like to order the stuff from Digikey or Mouser and start working on them in the next few weeks but would like some input from my SRK TT family. XD

QUESTIONS:

What connector types should I use for the wires and what’s the best way to mount them on plastic?
I’d like ATX ones similar to those on computer power supplies, and I know there’s a ton of options in that case.

Also, I haven’t stripped down all the wires yet, but none of them should be more than 6 wires. Obviously USB is 4 and AC Power is 2, the shifter is 3 or 4, and the pedals are like 5 or 6.

Can anyone super familiar with connectors and is good navigating the MASSIVE options on Mouser or Digikey?

Thanks in advance.

Hmm, the two plates that Seimitsu has on their website for this stick look pretty much the same except one has raised edges and one doesn’t. I assume I would have to use the center screw holes on both versions. Already ordered the thread tap anyway, searching for two 3rd party plates for both my HRAPs would probably be more trouble than it’s worth, and would likely cost more too.

I tried but the screw started to strip and there was still a considerable gap left.

@FrankCastleAZ are the wheels used strictly for PC, or used on PS3 as well? If it’s just PC, there are solutions for hooking the pedals and shifter straight to their own USB input. The pedal adapter even ups the input sensitivity of the pedals to 10-bit resolution.

That would be the easy answer for PC, but if you use it on consoles as well, what you are proposing is probably the next best option.

The shiftier and Pedals have to reconnect to the base unit first. Giving them their own USB connection is not much of a option as the pedals need 5 or 6 wires. And I guess with the nature AZHP gaming individual USB on the shiftier and pedals aren’t feasible.

RJ45 would be too brittle, prone to breakage, I can imagine the same with mini din connectors (think S-video cables and how lousy they can be)

@FrankCastleAZ

Molex connectors like you see on PC power Supplies or in arcade cabs would work.

So would full size Din connectors

I would tackle the 6 wire cable first, I going to assume its 6 and not 5 as its better to assume we need the extra Pin.

Full Size 6 pin Din connectors
Male
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/SD-60/CP-1060-ND/96999
Female
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/SD-60J/CP-1160-ND/97011

There is also Din cables

Male
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/10-00436/839-1065-ND/2625286
Female
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/10-00443/839-1072-ND/2625293

Monoprice has Full sized 5 Pin Din cables

If you only need 5 wires I use Din 5 as its easier to splice the cables than soldering to those Din connectors and the 6 pin Din cables aren’t that cheap.

Otherwise I use a 9 pin DE (wrongly called a DB 9) connector as they are common and rugged.

Obviously USB would be remanded as USB. I get a USB cable from Mono Price.

and consider this, So when you USB cable breaks you can just swap the cable with a new one.
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/A-USBPB-N/AE11180-ND/5017725
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/A-USBPB-HOOD-BLK-R/AE10635-ND/2244411

Its easier than drilling a hole for a Neutrik.

For AC power, is it coming from an adapter ?

Bit of an odd issue here, I’ve installed a Brook PS3/4 Fightboard in my Xbox 360 Qanba Q2 Glow with a DPDT switch and it’s working fine. The only problem is the button and stick LEDs that come stock are wired to the Qanba board, and if I switch the USB data lines to the Brook board and connect to a PS4 the “mode” indicator lights up on the stick and none of the button LEDs work.

As the Qanba board seems to need to see a USB data connection for it to drive the LEDs, can anyone think of a way to simulate this, or are my only options to use a dedicated LED controller, or wire a constant voltage to the LEDs and have them on a separate switch?

We don’t have to use console. We’ve used them on PS3 in the past and use them on PC now but @Darksakul is correct. The pedals and shifter need to plugged into the PCB inside the steering wheel and the 1 USB output signal handles everything to the console or PC.

You’re right that RJ45 isn’t ideal and would be prone to easy break.

The AC power has a small standard male plug that leads to an external power supply box with a detachable infinity power connector (like the one for PSX/PS2/PS3/DC/XBox/Laptops/etc). That doesn’t matter too much to me either though, as I’d be doing the same solution with the AC power as I would to the shifter and pedals.

The problem with the din connectors is it would be difficult to mount the female end on the plastic steering wheel base and I don’t see the din connectors as rugged as an ATX power connector.

You did mention DE-9 and that’s a big possibility. A few Amp Up connectors could work as well.

It all comes down to 2 things:

  1. Is it rugged
  2. Does it have a panel mount for a male or female option?

I’m really bad with Mouser or Digikey because they just have so many options and it takes me forever to find something that seems legit and then I have to struggle to find the opposite Male/Female version.
This might end up being one of those I suck it up and spend a few hours to find what I need but I thought I’d at least give it a shot asking in case any of you guys have had to do similar and had a solid solution.

So I’m currently using a Qanba Q4RAF. How is it in terms of PS4 compatibility? Are there good lagless converters, or will I need a new stick entirely?

It works in PS3 mode on Skullgirls, MKX, and USFIV as is. Does not work with BlazBlue, Guilty Gear, Injustice, or SFV beta.

If you want PS4 with that existing stick, you’re looking at either putting in a new PCB (Brook PCB or padhack of Hori Fighting Commander Pro 4), or using an adapter (Brook).
Threads on the Brook PCB, Brook adapters, and padhacking PS4 pads including the Hori FCP4 are all on the first or second page at the moment here on SRK Tech Talk.

I Dual Modded a Q2 before.

The way the Qanba Q2 Glow works The LEDs only work if the Qanba PCB is active.

The way to get the LEDs to work for both boards is a little more convoluted than just a simple Dual-mod hack
First you have to remove the LEDs from the Qanba side of the stick. You can have the lights always on with a switch to turn them off or you can get a LED controller to replicate any cool effects you had before hand.

I was worried that would be the case. Thanks for the reply, that’s definitely saved me some time!

Hey Tech Talk, got some questions. I have a HORI RAP Pro V Kai for 360/XB1/PC but I want to add the functionality of a PS360+ to it. Found some other threads with similar mods, but would still like clarification. Basically the setup I’d like to accomplish is the ability to use a single RJ45 output passthrough for the default HORI PCB and the PS360+.

The main question is for the 360/XB1 Kai, but I happen to have a VLX Kuro myself. Would I just have to follow the guide above more or less to add a PS360+ to it? Hope I’m posting this in the right place. Thanks in advance!

I got a .187 to 5-pin Conversion Harness and with some tinkering I finally installed my decade-old Sanwa JLW in my TE.

Feels nice and all, but the short shaft feels weird. Is this how it’s supposed to be, or should I look for another mounting plate? The one I have is flat.

EDIT: Guess I should get this KOWAL Japan S Plate Converter.

EDIT 2: Wait, do I even need to get that? Maybe I was just used to the length of the Hayabusa.