Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

Keep in mind I don’t live in Canada

Any hardware store has wire tie anchors and zip ties.
I can’t say the same for the .110 sized quick disconnects, I get all mine from online.
You can try hardware stores, electronic supplies, home improvement stores and auto part stores.

That was the first result I found on Amazon.ca

(Which I know is online, but at least it’s in Canada.)

Do you have any Radio Shacks? Anything like that might be worth giving a quick phone call to

Will do, thanks. Probably going to find some cheap anchors online or something.

Do you have a picture of what the end product should look like? Just so I can kind of get a visual for all of this information.

Yeah I saw that. Just not trying to spend 30$ for a 100 pack when I’m only gonna use like 8 of them or so.

Would a method like this work? This guy just strips the ribbon cables and connects those to the screw terminals rather than rewiring all the buttons and such. Seems much easier.

will the Seimitsu SE/RE Flat Mounting Plate for LS-32, LS-40 work on Seimitsu Ls-62?

Your stick already has .110 connectors on the buttons. You will be cutting the opposite ends off, stripping a small bit, and screwing them into their corresponding terminals. Given how new you are to all of this, I recommend taking a little bit of time to read slagcoin.com to understand the basics.


Let me know if there’s a mistake in this image.

So each button has two wires coming out of it going into this terminal strip which connects to a board which has ribbon cables connecting it to the PCB. I assume I take the ends of the wires connecting to the strip and remove that end and strip it, then I screw it into the new PCB terminal? Do I do it for both wires? I know one of the two is the ground for it, the reason I’m talking about daisy chaining is because I don’t think I have enough ground slots on the board without daisy chaining.


Do I essentially scrap this PCB? Should I even bother with removing it?

Thanks for your patience guys, must be a pain having to explain all of this in the most basic of ways.

You don’t need that little PCB per say but you might want to use the two buttons off the board.

Your 8 arcade buttons, start, select and the joystick wires directly to the Brooks Board.

With the buttons you have your options of using the terminal strip or not.
If you want to use the terminal strip, cut the ribbon cables from that tiny board and wire the appropriate wires to the correct screw terminals on your Brook board.

You can do a similar route with your joystick, of if you think if it helps buy a Sanwa Joystick wire harness so you can color code your directionals.

If you want to use the TE board for the Home and turbo button (I would wire the turbo to the touch panel key) you have to solder one wire for home, one for the touch panel key, ground and Vcc/5 volts.

I’m mostly a PC player so if wiring home and turbo is that much of an issue I might just not bother with it lol.

As far as using the terminal strip, which do you recommend? If I don’t use the strip then I would have to daisy chain it correct? If I choose to use the strip I assume I cut the end which connects to the TE PCB?

Still not sure how to connect the USB to the new PCB though.

Again, thanks so much for all the help guys. Super helpful

If you use the terminal strip, you don’t need to chain grounds as the terminals trip does it for you.
Just cut the ribbon cables from the main PCB, separate the wires a bit so you can put individual wires to each screw terminal on the board.
The ribbon cable minus ground and maybe K-Gnd if your terminal strip as it or not is all the buttons in order on the PCB.
If you have a multimeter, it will come in handy here as you can test and probe to make sure.

"Still not sure how to connect the USB to the new PCB though."
Ether you can solder the original cable to the board, solder a Replacement Type B connector, spice another B Type connector to the cable or replace the whole cable.
If you go with replacing the whole cable you will need to drill out a wider opening for the USB cord to feed it though

Well considering I have no soldering experience I’ll probably opt to buy a new cable all together as that is the most accessible to me.

Thanks, I’ll probably try to do this tomorrow. If I have any further questions I’ll be sure to ask.

Just to double check, this would be the cable I need right? https://www.amazon.ca/Fosmon-Black-Printers-Scanners-Devices/dp/B005D9K7EC/ref=sr_1_sc_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1459137080&sr=1-3-spell&keywords=usb+typa+a+male+to+type+b+male

Hi, I had a question about modding a PS3 TE-S with a Brook Universal Fight Board. Is there anyway to preserve the lock function on the turbo panel of the TE-S? I don’t see where I can hook up those points on the UFB.

Also, what is a fair value for a 360 TE R1 dual-modded with a ChImp? What about a PS3 TE-S or just the PCB? What about a 360 TE R2? I’m wondering if I should sell these sticks and build a custom one. I’m thinking about just getting a TE-S+ as well, even though I don’t own a PS4.

There is a way but you got to run the Start and Select’s KGnd though that Lock switch.
It really has nothing to do with the Brook board


The TE dual mod guide has existed for 7 years. The Brook PS3/4 fightboard is no exception to (dual) modding that stick.

Please do some research.

If I ever get around to modding my own TE-S with the UFB, I should make a thread documenting the procedure.
I might even make a true dual mod with it.

I don’t have a reliable video camera where I can get what I feel is satisfactory results, so it’s unlikely I make a YouTube video.
Much to the horror of the influx of new “DIY-ers” who wants their hand to be held.

you dont need to get new QDs or anything like that. Just cut cut the ribbon that goes from the terminal to the turbo panel, strip those and connect to the screw terminal on the pas board. If you look further in the thread youll find a pic that indicates what you need to do if you want to use turbo and home buttons on your turbo panel.thaters a youtube video about installing a ps360+ in a ps3 TE; its pretty much the same thing.

I have been trying to add ps4/3 to my mayflash v2 which looks like the venom but just has xbox/ps3/pc compatability. I am adding the hori fight commander 4. In testing I the hfc4 works but when I hook the mayflash board back up nothing works on that end. Are there any quirks of that board that I am missing?

pics and did you wire power and ground to both pads?

I looked up numerous guides and did a fair amount of research. I just wanted to make sure my information was correct before I went around snipping cables without any replacements for them. Didn’t mean to be a nuisance, but I figured this would be a good thread to ask a few questions and clear things up. Especially when these guides are using all of this vocabulary that someone completely new to this kind of thing doesn’t really understand. Had I not asked these questions and had @Darksakul not have been nice enough to help me I almost certainly would have made a mistake.

I understand it can be annoying to have to essentially hold someones hand through the entire process especially when there are guides like you mentioned, but I found that the guides I searched up didn’t leave me with enough confidence to tackle it on my own.

will the Seimitsu SE/RE Flat Mounting Plate for LS-32, LS-40 work on Seimitsu Ls-62?

Hey guys,

I’m sorry I know this is a really nooby question but for PCB screw terminals, do the wires going into it need to be stripped? Just figured maybe the screws pierce the wire and don’t need to be stripped if it makes a connection that way.