Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)


No, not to the Plexi. On the inside of the case just do a dab where each button meets the panel to keep the stationary.


Does anybody know where I can find the screws/feet for the hitbox arcade controller?


I have an old EightArc Onyx arcade stick.The faceplate is finally starting to warp and I was just wondering where the best place would be to buy/have a replacement made?

Another option I suppose would be to try to straighten it somehow, but I’m worried it will crack. I believe it is made of acrylic.


You mean the plexi? https://www.canadianjoysticks.com/qanba-q3-art-cover-plexiglass/


The middle holes on the mounting plate of my rap v don’t seem to be fully threaded I had to use washers to get to fill the gap when mounting the ss plate+LS-40. Does anyone else have this issue?

***why is my LS-40 is making a squeaking noise when I move the lever to down ?
***One of the switches is making the squeak how would I service it?


replace the switch


i asked this a while ago… but i’m asking again…

anyone has the 74XX chip diagram for making your own DIY SOCD Cleaner? it was hosted in tinypic or something :frowning:



is it possible to daisy chain ground wires this way?(combining multiple daisy chain ground wires ?)


Yes, that will work just fine in a common ground board.


Hey guys I’m super new to the world of fight sticks but have been enjoying fight games for years now and am currently in the beginning stages of customizing 2 madcatz te round 1s. That being said these are my first 2 that I’ve ever customized and I have found a lot of helpful guides but I have several questions that I’m having trouble finding answers too. First being, how easy and how is it possible to remove the turbo panel, I want a more sleeker look and see a lot of people removing theirs but I am un able to find a guide on how to do so? Is there a way to remove it from its position while still housing it inside so that it is connected but not protruding so I can have artwork cover the hole for it. Another question I have is I know vinyl dye is the way to go to paint the white side plates and red bezel, however I am unable to find a guide on either how to remove the side plates so that I can dye them or ways to dye them without removing them. Thank you all so much for any help in advanced, I’m sure I will have more questions in the near future.


So I found a TE2+ On newegg for 119.99. I decided to say fuck it, buy it. I already own an HRAP4 which is pretty cool.

Anywho, the question is about parts for the TE2+. I personally don’t like default configuration of the TE2+ I got:

I was hoping someone could point me in the direction of replacement side panels and bezels, without having to paint them. if I have to paint them, I will, but I would really prefer not to.


Taking out the turbo panel is pretty easy. Just unscrew the top screws and then unscrew these two screws. There some glue so try to remove that first, I used a pocket knife.

Move the bezel a little, lift the turbo panel up and then unplug these wires.

That’s it. However removing the side panels does require taking apart the whole stick. It’s pretty annoying, but it isn’t difficult.


Ever since Mad Catz went under finding side panels and bezels for the TE2 is hard and expensive. They aren’t listed that often on eBay and if they are, they are usually priced at double the original price. You could try the trading forums to see if anyone has any and is willing to sell. To be honest the simplest way is to vinyl wrap or spray paint the default ones.


Second question:

Has anyone tried installing HBSF 30 buttons on a TE2? are they compatible? does the hexagonal buttons interfere with the round plexi glass button cutouts? thinking about ordering some for this controller. Looking for an LED board for this thing too.


I can’t give you a 100% correct answer because I don’t own any HBSF, but I feel like it might. Here’s a picture of how flush the buttons are with the stock TE2+ plexi.

It might be able to fit with it’s hexagon shape although I’m not 100% sure. Worst case scenario is to buy a Generation 1 1/16" plexi from FocusAttack or Tek-Innovations you can read more about it here. The buttons sit on top of the plexi like in this video. As for the LED board, best to ask ParadiseArcadeShop if they plan on ever making more. I don’t feel like they will since the Kaimana Mini is a thing, but you never know.


I have 3 sticks:
Qanba Q4 Raf
Hori Rap Premium VLX (modded with PS360+)
Dreamcast Agetec

My question is, I like the way the Hori stick feels and I can perform special moves without any problem.
The best one for me, a noob, is the Dreamcast Agetec, I can perform any command I intend without any problem.
The worst for me is the Qanba.

What I want to know is, what kind of “gate” (is this the correct name?) is the default in each one?

Or at least what kind of “gate” the Dreamcast arcade stick uses?

I believe is just a matter of changing the gate to be satisfied with my Qanba.


The q4 and the 360/PS3 vlx all had a sanwa jlf with square gate iirc. The newer PS4 vlx use horis own Hayabusa lever with a square gate.
No idea on the agetec.
Since you’re satisfied with the vlx Maybe you should give the q4 stick some maintenance. Clean the switches. Apply new grease and replace the spring.


After some google work I found that the Agetec and the VLX have square gate.

And the Qanba uses an octagonal gate.
I guess I’ll try replacing the octagonal gate on the Qanba with a square one and check if it’s a good.


Really? Did you buy the q4 raf used perhaps? It should come with a square gate from the factory. Maybe the previous owner put a hexagonal gate in.


Does anyone know about what pcb the hori blazblue cpex stick uses?