Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)



Well, maybe my google skills are terrible. Is it actually square gate? Maybe I understood some conversation here wrong.
If it’s square gate like all the others then great! I’ll open and clean it up.

I bought it brand new.


Found a review at amazon claiming it’s octogate


Thanks! that seems simple enough. Um some follow up questions I got is once I unplug the turbo panel with the settings that were inputted last stay? Meaning if I have it set to left stick (or dpad I don’t know which is better) and then unplug all together will that input stay so that I can play with ease?
Next by taking apart the whole stick do you mean I would have to unscrew the top and bottom to remove the side panels for dyeing because I didn’t plan on removing the bottom because I didn’t want to risk messing up the circuit boards and stuff. Do you know if there is an easy guide to either removing the side panels or is it possible and how easy would it be to mask off the rest of the stick and spray vinyl dye the sides without disassembly (I’ve seen others do this with super nintendos and other consoles but I want to be sure it wouldn’t mess up the internal electrical pieces this way.


Got a question, so a while back I stumbled across a post/info about lag in sticks and had most sticks and boards graded.Here it is: http://www.teyah.net/sticklag/results.html Saw that the hori rap kai for ps4 was towards the bottom. My question is, does anyone on here notice a difference when going from for example hori rap/mad catz to swapping the board to a brooks or an aftermarket board? And this data I was looking at didn’t include the hardware either such as swapping out stick/buttons, so I’m assuming its grading off of the boards. On my rap4, ive swapped the hori stick and buttons to all sanwa, but I wonder if going to an aftermarket board I will notice any difference. Thanks


That shit is old data. The current hrap Kai’s are different from the ones on that list.


According to the list it does include current?


That hrap kai is the older version that comes with the Kuro buttons. The newer ones has the side panel labeled out on top panel and both Hayabusa parts and newer PCB. It also supports x-input on the newer ones.


I’ve owned a Q4RAF, it’s probably my favorite stick design overall, and why I currently have an HRAP4 (much prefered the Q4RAF though) And I can confirm that it is supposed to come with a square gate. Most if not all JLFs come with the square gate standard.


Can I swap the steel panel with button and lever cutouts between hori rap cases without removing the stock artwork? What tool would I need to extend threads on a screw hole? My rap v mounting holes for the Seimitsu SS plate are not fully threaded, when I shook out a dizzy is super turbo the ss plate unscrewed on me.


NO. Art is glued to the panel and often there screws under the art.

You need a Tap and die set. They are for cutting threads into holes or cylindrical stock.

What you can do is take one of the screws with you to your local hardware store to get the size, and get just the Tap you need and a T-handle for the Tap. That would spare you from buying a whole kit.

Other things to look into is getting lock washers or even a compound like Loctite Threadlocker


Does anyone know what modders will be at CEO, I’d like to message someone about a mod


what do people typically use as containers for arcade parts?


Hey soooo I might have asked before but I have a stick I just want to work on PS3/PS4/PC would it be better to get a board / solder something into it or to get a converter instead? Someone told me Hori Fighting Commanders were worthwhile? :S


A board is always better then a converter. Most people use a Brook pcb. They have several depending on your needs and skills.


Is it possible for consoles that are used in tournaments and such to develop issues with supplying power to the USB ports with use over time? I have some dual modded sticks (meaning at least 2 boards sucking power) that would occasionally just lock up until unplugged and replugged on PS4s used during sessions in my school’s fighting game club and I’m assuming those PS4s have been used for hours on end with sticks plugged in. The sticks in question use HFC boards so it’s not a licensing/8 minute timeout issue. I’ve yet to try an unmodded PS4 licensed stick to see if it’s just the dual mods themselves that are the problem. This also only happens occasionally; sometimes I’ll have lengthy sessions with those sticks where nothing goes wrong at all.


Theres more variables then just the ps4 and the connected controllers. For example the powerconsumption of other devices on the same circuit might go up or down. Have you tried a powered usb hub?


Haven’t tried that yet, seems like a good idea if it really is the 2 pcbs taking too much power from the console. Though I’m curious how tournaments run without usb hubs (at least I don’t remember there being any at the last tournament I went to) when there are at least some people there with similar mods in their controllers.


Hmm. There’s a PCb about the same price as the controller on Amazon too. I’ll see.


I assume youre in the US and i dont know how electric wiring in houses is done there, but in europe theres a big difference in the way it used to be done before and now. I would assume that at tournaments usually the building would have more robust electrical wireing/switchboxes. That could be one factor that comes into play. Iirc jasen did a writeup about the ps4 power problem a while ago.


Huh I only heard of cases where it would disconnect but not lock-up. I kind of curious about this too since I run into the former of the problem.