Hori Mini 4’s PCB is common ground so any ground works. When in doubt, use one of the grounds on the USB, but you could easily just daisy chain all your joystick directions and buttons to that one ground for the ribbon cable.
Did the Qanba Obisidian get a new revision OR a firmware update?
I see. I guess i’ll do that then. Thank you.
That will be the spring
Check it out with a multi meter or joy.cpl on your PC, or use the traning mode on a fighting game
Half of these lag videos is snake oil half of them a witch hunt.
You aren’t going to get a better game with being a milliseccond father inputs due to the nature how the game engines deal with input in non test conditions.
After dusting off Tekken 7 and trying out Dragon Ball Fighter Z my sticks need a PS4 upgrade.
I updated both my ps360+ to the latest firmware and I have to say getting the old boot is kind of annoying. A friend of mine almost bought me some Brooks PS3 to PS4 adapters. My question is; how reliable and solid are these things? I have no experience myself whatsoever with their products but definitely willing to try!
My second question is one that baffles me. I built a new stick hoping to get some sweet light up function. We salvaged a ps360+ pcb and bought the kaimana mini. everything seems to respond and works ok on the pc.
It won’t stop disconnecting on the PS3 however, very annoying.
Here’s a picture of the inside, mind you it still fresh and I’m not going to tidy up unless it’s working on the PS3
Thanks for your time, cheers!
I want to build a fightstick. This is my first time making one. I have a list of parts here and I was wondering if they were all compatible. I would also like to know what to solder if there is any soldering involved. How large should I drill the holes on the case? Should I be using pushbuttons or screwbuttons? How would I go about reversing the layout so the stick would be on the right? Do I have the right amount of the right types of cables? Should I build the control panel on the lid or the bottom of the box?
Get this for your wiring and make sure you get a pre-soldered Brook UFB: https://www.focusattack.com/20-pin-joystick-button-harness/
If you want to invert the layout just mirror one of the layouts at slagcoin.com, print, tape and drill. If this is your first time using a fightstick consider if that’s actually something you need. Putting a Brook in a cheap plastic storage case is like putting a hotrod engine in a PT Cruiser. Consider a wooden box. Screw-ins make buttons more durable to reuse.
I want to order a brook UFB. I don’t want to solder, though. Do I order it with all headers soldered or the 20 pin and USB only?
If you’re using a neutrik and are just using 8 action buttons + start/select/home + a joystick, you don’t have to solder anything. If you want a touchpad button then yes, get the headers pre-soldered.
You shouldn’t answer a question if you have no idea about what you are talking about.
Anyway, it was a firmware update:
If you have a qanba obsidian you should look into it.
Stop. Just stop.
Do you ever think of anything for once, or you just take You Tube video verbatim.
The way how most fighting games engines work as they only process one input per player per frame, having a 10% of a MS faster controller means nothing. Yeah it stacks with converters (and chaining Adapters/Converters is far worst).
Anyone that says otherwise is selling snake oil or is on a witch hunt.
It’s a fact that there are laggy pcb’s. My post was more to the fact that there was a firmware update for the obsidian.
You can believe what you want.
Is there a firmware update for the TE2+? Recently got one and want to make sure the firmware is latest/greatest. Google search shows drivers but no firmware update so maybe it’s good to go?
Iirc those sticks have never had firmware upgrades
The fact that if you look at the past records of many big tournaments such as Evo and such, the Tournament Winners and those who made it to the finals and semifinals often had very laggy sticks show its not as impactful to game play as you claim.
How can I give a regular white ball top the same texture as a sanwa battop/hori hayabusa buttons?
Edit: Put the balltop on a jlf shaft and put it in the chuck of my drill and spun it against some dollar store sanding blocks (120 and 80, dry sanding on the 80 followed by wet sanding on the 120). The result came close enough to what I want. We’ll see how long it lasts.
Are the threads on the clear balltops made of a weaker metal? I cleaned and lubed the lever and the balltop would come unscrewed during gameplay, I had to really torque down on it to keep it from unscrewing. I tried a non clear balltop with the same amount of torque I was using with the clear balltop and it didn’t unscrew during gameplay. Thanks.
***Seimitsu LB-39 Clear Bubbletop
Question about Samducksa SDL-301, i would like to use it with balltop plus a soft feel (im used to JLF for years) but a balltop make it feels hard even with the softest official/white grommet and also i found the shaft too tall.
Is there any mod (maybe from Jansen) that offers a bit shorter shaft and a even softer grommet available?
did you lube the threads?
Has anyone tried this with clear seimitsu shaft covers? Want to put a clear yellow one on a JLF but if I can see how fucked up the inside is since it’s clear then I’ll have to find some cleaner way of doing it
EDIT: Took the shaft cover to my drill, all I had to shave was a few mm off the bottom, the damage there isnt noticeable since it’s under the dustwasher and control panel with a JLF