Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)


Haha! No worries, thanks for trying. Still curious if anyone knows the answer:

Other than console compatibility (PS3 vs PS4) are there any case/design differences between the Hori VLX 3 vs VLX 4?


Well the third and fourth vlxes were both ps4 sticks. Theyre generally not refered to as with numbers. We had the og vlx (360 and ps3) witch was the one with the red art and white sides. then the diamond (ps3), then the kuro (all black, ps4) then the vlx hayabusa (ps4, red sides).
The main differences in the case would be the turbo panel, the colour obviously but also some of the branding on the art. The first one didnt have “vewlix” branding on the art irc. Also the diamond has brushed metal housing instead of the black paint the others had.




Any cases to fit Eurojoystick?


The pads on the bottom of the ps4 fighting edge suck, my rap v has none just bare steel and rubber feet and it stays in place better than the fighting edge. Will it be possible to add rubber feet to the fighting edge?


I am probably over thinking what I want to do, and not sure if this is the right forum to post.

What I would like to do is convert an old Round 1 MadCatz TE stick(xbox 360) to a hitbox (ps4/PC).

I can get a plexi top panel from Art. Is this going to be stiff enough or will I feel “plexi flex”?

Also, I am not to sure of the internal wiring I would need. I am looking at https://www.focusattack.com/5-pin-hitbox-conversion-harness/ so I can connect buttons to the JLF lever.

Aside from buttons, top panel, and that converter… am I missing anything? To convert to ps4 I feel a brook USB converter may be the easiest.

If anyone knows a better way to do this, please let me know. This does not have to be the cheapest (but loess than an actually new hitbox) but it working well is the goal.


You can submit a custom build panel and ask to do a standard hitbox layout. You will want to add an SOCD cleaner if you want the true hitbox setup and you have the correct adapter there.


I have received a Kowal Short Throw Seimitsu For LS-56-
This mod is bad to play Fighting games?


Posting for a friend…He has a Stock Hitbox with a Brook PS3/PS4 Fighting Board. He is getting controller disconnects. We have checked the pro cable and it’s good but they are so intermittent…I had him check the solder points on the PCB and they seem ok but it’s hard to tell…He’s going to SCR and I’d like to help him out before he leaves…Any other ideas to check?..It only happens for a split second…it disconnects and reconnects but its enough to cost him the round…


Do aluminum dustcovers and shaft covers affect handling of the lever? I don’t plan on an aluminum balltop. Thanks.


IF i install Kowal Short Throw mod in my Seimitsu LS-56. This stick it was to have less accuracy or deflection?


Hi !

I am looking for precise hitbox layout measurements - the original one, not the one with a vewlix arrangement

I find many .psd for making artworks but it gets pretty inacurrate whenever I try to use it with autocad or rhino. The goal is to include it into a 3d and later to lasercut so I’m looking for something as precise as it can get.

Would anyone have either :

  • .dwg or .dxf hitbox layout file
  • some kind of blueprint drawing like the ones found on slagcoin with measurements so I can redraw it in autocad ?

I have a hard time finding these. Thanks !


Yes and no. Your movements will be super precise, but it also means your execution needs to be more on point as the higher precision will magnify all your mistakes.

Hard to say without any photos. Got a multimeter?

In general no, as long as there a good fit, you should be fine.


The screw of the Kowal was in the Pcb, restrictor gate or when i have to put the screws?


(h)wət ?


Is there a standard wiring for superguns?


Is the only way to do a wireless PS4 stick by tearing a PCB out of a DS4? Reading through the thread it just sounds awful to actually do. Only other possible option I’ve found is the Hori Onyx but it’s not clear if that was even actually released in the US and is way more than I want to pay for an undocumented hack job. I’m sure this will get scoffed at but it’s more about just convenience and ease of daily use than being the perfect option (and have my large, solid Brook hitbox when I want that).


Looking for cable pinouts for making cables compatible with the Brook retro board. Anyone got links?


Yes, for most boards they use whats called JAMMA (Japan Amusement Machine and Marketing Association).
They introduce the JAMMA harness, normalize typical voltages needed to power most arcade boards, ect.

But it is a real mess

There are a few notable exemptions, exceptions, variants ect.
Many older boards of the 70s and early 80 boards will need adapters
Neo Geo sorta did it’s own thing while using a Jamma Edge connector.
Newer systems like Naomi or Taito X ether needs an adapter board (such as the Capcom I/O board for Naomi) or don’t use Jamma.
The Jamma harness do not cover Kicks buttons at all, so you have to use a secondary kick harness, and Mortal Kombat and other non-capcom games use a completely different harness than the majority of Capcom titles.

You want to look at what boards you are wanting to play with your supergun and proceed.
Also while the harness and pinout is mostly standardize, the peak voltage levels of video and audio output is not. So you will need to attenuate those levels back down to something usable.
Especially if you want to connect your Supergun to a Framemister or OSSC.
Tim Worthington makes a good RGB Driver board

You also want to search though here, the Shmup forums, the Neo Geo forums and so on.
I my self written a few things that will help out.


My Sanwa stick works well without getting stuck before yesterday I lubricate it and keep making a lot of noise on the switches. It is normal?