you can get the 20-pin connectors from either Arcade Shock or Paradise Arcade Shop I believe.
Yes, sorry I did not add that I’m in France so it’s really expensive to order from US shops.
I have already seen on PAS that they have what they call Molex equivalents that could be what I’m looking for but I’m not sure that’s the ones, which is why I ask.
I already own a stupid amount of connectors that I ordered for other PCB’s out of ignorance and are not the good ones.
I’m not familar on where to order fightstick parts in the EU to be honest, as I’m a US resident. Maybe someone with more knowledge can direct you?
edit: upon further searching Google, I found a reddit thread with some good resources.
From what I seen Europe due to tax and trade laws gets screwed over in the stick market.
You almost have to go into mods or custom builds as a necessity.
he could also order from Focus Attack, as they do US postal shipments for items below a certain price range. That might be the cheapest route, since France probably has a limit on items that are duty/customs free; and I don’t think they have VAT from what I recall. Could be wrong.
I got some good chrome LED buttons Im putting into my arcade stick.
My question is:
Do i need a power source for the buttons? Im hooking them up to a Brook UFB and using them for mostly PC and console play.
I don’t like the mechanical hayabusa that came in my ps4 fighting edge, comparing with my optical hayabusa which is fast, precise and responsive the mechanical hayabusa feels like a completely different lever to me clunky and slow. Why was everyone hyped about it when it was first released? Placebo effect? Members were saying it felt like an LS-40, I have an LS-40 and the hayabusa feels nothing like an LS-40. Does anyone have issues with the noir lever spacing affecting execution? After playing on the hori rap v for about two years before getting the fighting edge the noir layout feels slightly off to me, but only on the lever side the buttons are perfect. I feels as if the noir lever spacing has made the long throw of the hayabusa really noticeable, even my optical hayabusa feels off in the fighting edge. The optical feels perfect in the the rap v and its close lever placement. Only the LS-40 feels good in the fighting edge but I don’t want to lose my execution with the optical. Has anyone here had a machine shop make a new layout plate for them? I’m considering having a plate and aluminum panel made for the fighting edge. Thanks.
So I’m trying to switch out the pcb in my Hori RAP4 Kai with a brooks universal pcb
Most of it seems straight forward, but I’m not sure how to link up the ps4 touchpad because it looks like its attached to the Hori pcb and the PS button, L3 R3, share, and the separate switches on the side of the fight stick because the wires connecting to them arent labeled, so I dont want to remove the soldering until I know what should go where.
(Wires leading to the side buttons and switches)
Does anyone know how to take the touchpad wire off the Hori pcb or how to resolder the buttons on the side correctly?
I’ve thought of dropping a brook board into my rap v and found the rap v (same case as rap 4) case to be really tight on space. Where are you mounting it? The cable compartment is has room are you putting it there or shaving away plastic?
Thanks but my point is trying to get the names of specific electronic elements. I know where to order arcade parts here but they don’t sell theses specific elements, otherwise I wouldn’t have asked.
Shipping from US is more expensive than the item itself + taxes can or cannot happen, it’s only matter of luck.
And knowing what electronic fits in which part is increasing my knowledge as I want to improve.
I wanna try and put it in the same place as the board currently in it. I bought my brooks ufb off of amazons and it came with a board that i can screw it to with an adhesive strip on the opposite side so i plan to just stick it in
So I’m new to any modding actually requiring soldering or anything more than screws and cables. Anyways I want to use my HitBox on a SNES and as far as I can tell the best option would be to use the MC Cthulu. Can I set that up as something I plug a usb into instead of actually adding it to my box? I know chaining the boards is a thing, but does that cause any latency? Overall I’d just prefer to set it up as an adapter instead of a second board if possible, and I was hoping for some advice on what that might entail.
Edit: I also don’t really understand what the USB port on the Cthulhu is for. From what I understand you still have to solder both the SNES cable and the controller buttons, so I don’t get what the USB port is for. I was hoping that you would just have to solder the SNES cable then you could plug in the controller via USB, but I’m fairly sure that’s not how it works.
Thanks for any help!
The USB on the MCC is used for PS3 and PC support also for updates.
You would have to either solder a SNES extension cable to the corresponding holes behind the usb port (if you only want SNES support probably a pad hack would serve you better), or you can solder a CAT 5e cable to it add a coupler and you can make your own cords for the SNES and other game consoles it supports.
You can pair this with a Undamned USB Decoder, which decodes the button presses from your stick via usb, then you take your signals from the UDUSB and connect them with corresponding signals on your MCC. The only problem is you have to check for the compatibility of the UDUSB and the PCB of your Hitbox. For instance my Madcatz PS3 SE stick and Madcatz Xbox 360 pad both work fine with it, but unfortunately my Razor Atrox Xbox One stick doesnt. More likely than not if it has a ps3 or 360 mode it will probably work but you need to find out and possibly force into one of those 2 modes.
Thanks for the info! The hitbox uses a PS4 PCB unfortunately (Which may actually have a ps3 mode, but I’m having a hard time figuring it out if the one I have does, because I know they move around on exactly the parts they use). My options seem to be to either get an Undamned decoder (If my hitbox doesn’t actually have a ps3 mode I could switch the board for the Fighting Commander one I have which definitely has a PS3 mode) and a soldering kit. My other option is to use adapters, which at first I thought was a dead end, but I think if I used this one into this one I should be able to achieve what I’m looking for as both claim to have minimal lag.
If I go with the Decoder, then I’d get to do actual soldering and stuff, which I’ve been looking into getting into, but that also means I could fuck something up, which I’m not keen on. I’m also more certain the adapters will actually work, but I’m a tad concerned about latency and it’s noticeably more lame to use 2 adapters then make one myself.
Also I have a snes controller I could use, would I be able to use that to replace the MCC?
If anyone has any thoughts I’d love to hear them.
I want to dual mod my panzer 3 with a UFB and a ps360+ using a single cable. I want to use an rj45 neutrik, can i wire the usb grounds from each board onto the existing cherry switch or is this a bad idea for the longevity of the pcbs?
to ask, what’s the reasoning behind using both a PS360+ and a UFB; other than playing on older consoles?
Just to have utility on ps2/dreamcast. I know the retro board exists but I do not want to drop another 70 bucks.
You may still see the suggestion of pairing the UFB up with the retro board as a FYI
Why does the hori hayabusa optical come with such a stiff spring? I swapped it out for an LS-32/40 spring early on and played with the LS-32/40 spring for about 2 years. I’ve been using a jlf spring for the last 3 months and the inputs are effortless, but I think the LS-32/40 spring might be a bit better. I decided to try the stock spring again and it’s heavier than the LS-32/40 spring.
It is to make up for the lack of resistance the Microswitches would also provide.
Testing shows the majority of people tend to respond to a optical joystick better with a stiffer spring.
Then again joystick preferences are subjective and each person will have their own experiences.
Your own mileage may vary.