Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)


I’m beginning to mod my SF5 Ryu TE2+for PS4, I have already added a Kaimana LEDkit with help from Paradise Arcade. What I want ask about is to do with the side panels and bezel. I think the LEDs would look better if the sides and bezel were black to match the body.

If i do this with a spray paint, off the shelf as I have no air brush or similar experience, what should I use? Should I sand the plastic first to adhere the paint or use a primer?

Any help is appreciated.



Best advice is not to paint if you have no experience.

If you gotta paint, you need to sand and primer before painting, and once you paint finish with a clear coat.
Avoid Krylon, that brand is crap, and the All-in-one paint and primer is the devil. Use automotive grade paint.

Alternatively if you are unsure, use plastidip as you can peel it off if you make a mistake or change your mind



Anyone using the 12/25 firmware for the UFB getting timed out when plugging into a PS4 under the new firmware revision that just came out a few days ago?

I’m trying to figure out whether or not to go ahead and buy my EZ Mod kit.



I haven’t experience any PS4 timeout with the 12/25 firmware for the UFB.
Usually when you need to install a new firmware to avoid timeouts, Brook makes a statement on Twitter.



Always sand your surface before paint ! It’s a rule.

You’ll need to get rid of the glossy finish otherwise the new paint will not stick to the surface.



I’m not getting any timeouts



LS-40 +ss plate in a hori rap ex case blocks installation of LK/X/A using a sanwa button. Hori hayabusa’s installs fine with no contact with the ss plate. Will Seimitsu buttons fit? Thanks.



God evening all,

Let me start by saying hello and adding that I have done a quick search on the forum and via google prior to asking this question, I hope it hasn’t been covered previously but apologies if it has - I couldnt find it.

Here’s the gist - I have a chewlix that has been tinkered with and can now accept, PS3, PS4 and pc at 1080p via a hdmi switch - sound is running to the amplifier from an audio extractorplaced in line after the splitter. It’s all remote controlled and perfect, no opening the cab when switching between inputs for either sound or video all sources coming in at their respective resolutions - so far great :slight_smile: !

Controlls are another problem though - Currently these are being handled by two brooks that I’ve installed in the CP, so when switching from PS4-pc etc I open up the CP and switch out the usb cable in the brook to another one that’s run to the relevant system.

What I’m looking for is be some sort of Y cable/splitter/usb hub that I could use to connect all three consoles to the brook at once (which will be replicated again for the P2 controlls)

My question is - has anyone tried to get this to happen before and know a device that works? Logically I’m thinking that the consoles would be powered separately so in effect there would only be one input source active into the brook at any given time - I’m assuming this would work?

Have no trouble throwing a few quid at any device that might help but had look around amazon and the usual places and cant see anything that seems to fit the bill weirdly, anyone know of any simple splitter, hub or Y cable type devise that might work here?

Many thanks for your time and appreciate any advice.




Y Splitters will not work for USB.
You need ether a KVM switch and only use the USB, or find a switch that does all 4 wires in a USB cable at the same time. Finding it as a remote switch is unlikely unless you are crafty with electronics



Ah, awesome but of help mate.

I’ve just had a look at KVM switches, so in theory it’s possible, looking at it there’s also a possibility I can cut the hdmi splitter I’m using now out entirely and run the video signals through the KVM - I’ll lose the remote but get the controlls and image switched at a button press right (something like this with the right number of ports - I guess for P2 run the same switch without the video connection - does that sound feesable?

Also any KVM switch that exists with two separate out channels on the control side (super unlikely but figured I’d ask :slight_smile: )

Thanks again for your help,



That’s all I can help with, I am not up to speed with New model KVM switches



Couldnt you just solder two extra cables to the usb solderpoints on the ufb? Youd always have to be 100% sure no two systems are powered on at the same time though.



Hello all.

I’ve got a mad scientist project in mind and I need to know where I can buy the panel I need:

I have a Mad Catz TE2+ that I want to turn into a hybrid of sorts.

I’d like to add a jump button. I’d prolly remove the UP wire from the joystick and attack it to a button, or leave both. Not sure yet. AFAIK that’s tourney legal. If not, no big deal, I’ll relocate it.

I need a replacement panel to experiment with.

I want a standard Sanwa joystick mount with a 24mm Hitbox layout for the buttons. Just the 8 P and K buttons with the jump button.

Could be good. Could be terrible. I’d at least like to try. Arts hobbies has replacement panels for the TE1. If he has them for the TE2 I don’t see them on his website. Any alternatives?



Bad idea

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Because? You’ve been here as long as I can remember. Share the wisdom sir.



Long story short, too easy to plug both cables in at the same time.

Bad things can occur.
Best thing is not to set your self up for disaster.

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They’re signal wires. The voltage is extremely low. I’m not going to fry anything by having two UP signal wires.

If I’m wrong and I can potentially fry my Brook UFB, I can put in a DPDT switch to alternate between my joystick and UP button.

If I’m wrong please tell me. I’m knowledgeable but I don’t know everything.



I am not going to get into the finer points on how this works, but you can blow the controller PCB as well as the USB host controller on your console or PC motherboard.

There a small chance nothing can happen, but if something does happen, the results can be disastrous. You risk your stick as well as both consoles.

You want to find a USB switch.



I’m having an issue with a hitbox I built where trying to do PPP occasionally won’t come out clean. It will register one of the buttons just before all 3, so it comes out like a plink when i have inputs turned on. I don’t have this happen when I use my older stick (TE), so I don’t think it’s an execution issue.

For example, say I’m playing SF4 as Dhalsim and I have super and ultra. If I try and do ultra (qcf qcf PPP) I end up having super come out (since it’s qcf qcf P). instead of the ultra. anyone know why this might be?

I thought maybe it was the buttons, so I replaced them, but i’m still having the issue. I guess maybe it could be user error, but i don’t quite understand how. I get clean inputs on my TE every time



Does anyone know if a updated list like this with input Lag infos exist somewhere?