Solid. Appreciate the knowledge sir!
Furthermore depending on the design (I’m only familiar with using screw-in buttons on older Madcatz sticks) but it’s often easier to wedge the Seimitsu nut under the mounting bracket and then basically screw the button into the nut rather than starting with the button…and I realize while typing this that what I’m saying probably only makes sense if one is actually staring at the panel while trying to install ones buttons.
Thanks guys. I cleaned up and put some folded pieces paper in the switches. Seems to work fine and hopefully will continue to work while I get the replacement.
I bought one of those really shitty HSS-0104 Saturn joysticks a few weeks back on the cheap just to fuck around with. I’ve got a dremel and an Agetec stick and want to make a Sega for my Saturn and Dreamcast. Assuming The HSS-0104 is common ground, could I do a dremel job like this
and still have the stick working outside of turbo which I dont care about at all?
How would I cut is marked in Blue.
I would cut down to that blue square and solder to the trances, keeping your Saturn PCB small.
Also take note of those resistors, you may have to add back resistors.
I’m not particularly confident in my ability to solder directly to traces but I suppose I can try it out before I actually cut the PCB then cut it off the rest of the way if needed, but I’ll probably go a little further to the left on the bottom just to include the through holes for the joystick since that’ll be less work and wont make it too much bigger. What type of resistors would those be on the top, and where would I wire the second end of the resistor to? They say 1742, 242, 272, 392, 562, 752, 123, and 243 on them .
I am not sure, get a multimeter and record the results. You might not even need them. But I take note anyways encase the board might need them.
Worst case scenario you can get another modder to take over this part of the mod, cut down the board and pre-wire it. Then you can easily dual-mod with the Age tech PCB, which is a very easy PCB to dual mod with.
In second though I might make the area what I leave behind, what i would cut wider. I didn’t take where the controller cable attached to the PCB in consideration.
What should I be testing with the multimeter?
Resistance on those resistors so you know their ohm values.
I’m planning on modding my stick with a detachable usb. While I did search the forums, what would be the easiest/least complicated way to do so?
Use a neutrik a/b connector. Solder a short a cable to the board (or use a phreakmods usb repair tool if you’re not comfortable splicingor soldering), drill holes for the neutrik, flip the connector so that the “B” end faces out, and install.
My Mad Catz TE-S replacement side panels came in but I can’t get the originals off. I did it before, but only by accident. Halp
EDIT: Never mind… I just realized I needed to disassemble the stick even more. Gotta get out the back part with the cutouts for the buttons and lever and then just wiggle… then unscrew the panels, then wiggle some more.
Come to think of it I did remember seeing a disassembly vid on YouTube too…
I’ve been playing on the asus vh236h “evo monitor” for a while, but i’ve been wondering: On xbox 360, since SF4 outputs at 720p (afaik), is it better to set the resolution to 1280x720 in console settings for reduced display lag (from scaling) or keep it at the monitors native which is 1920x1080. When i set the console to 720p and check the monitor options panel, it is displaying at 1280x720 so the monitor isn’t scaling, and the picture doesn’t look bad at all, but i’m not sure if playing outside the monitors native res causes it’s own lag etc… Thanks!
the hrap4 kai has a distance of 2.5" between the lever and the closest button.
I don’t own the TE2 sorry. But the TE1 has a distance of 1.5".
So I’m modding my Qanba Q1 with a PS360+ and I have some questions. The panel with the LEDs and the home through select buttons has a different format than all the other buttons, and I can’t connect any cables to them. For anyone who’s worked with a Q1, what should I do? It’s the row of indented buttons to the right of the start button.
Its possible to wire to those buttons. You got to trance where the button contacts to to where that sub board is wired to the main PCB.
Here is a thread where someone has a similar project
Hope this bring some insight
Thanks for the link, could you explain what you mean by trance?
Probably means trace.
Seriously though, he meant the copper trace
Oh, okay! I was so confused for a second there