Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

Anyone know where I can find hitbox layout to print and drill holes based upon? Having hard time finding something.

Somewhere on SRK. Probably. This should be a good start:
Explore David Jimenez

yeah but tons of old american sticks have white actuators, including the older happs…

I literally just install the artwork with the buttons and joystick removed and just stab right through them bam insta circle it was so easy worked very well on my TE2 all you have to worry about is cutting the artwork to fit inside the plexi on the stick and bam just do a little stab and you’ll make a perfect circle just make sure you hold the plexi with your non dominant hand to keep everything in place

I make perfect cuts on my circles in literally a minute.

If it’s that old try replacing the cherry switches regardless.

any chance for a sega saturn to xbox360 adapter out there so that i can play with the ss pads on a 360?

have not found one so far but read that its possible to build one so does someone offere these self build
adapters here or on any other place?

Noob here. I am looking for stick advice.
I will mainly be using my super gun to play neo geo games, shmups, cps1/2, and other older arcade games.
What kind of stick would you people recommend?

Hey guys! I have a MadCatz Ultra SFIV TE2 for 360 that I bought to use on PC (and it works flawlessly, I might add). I recently bought a PS4 and I am wondering if there is a product available with full PS4 compatibility (no re-authenticating) that I can put in this thing to get it to work on both my PC and my PS4.

I have no experience with modding sticks, so linking to relevant articles is appreciated!

Yes the PS4 version of the stick you own, a PS2 TE2. Also any PS4 version of the Hori Hrap sticks.

Are you looking to mod your existing stick or buy a PS4 compatible stick.

For Modding
Dual Modding 101 - Dual modding 101
3rd part PS4 Pads - Third party PS4 padhack options

So I have never used my PS360+ stick on a PS4, but it should be able to work for 8 minutes at a time, or am I mistaking? In that case, I should be able to play the SF5 beta with my stick, right? I just have to time it right when I plug in the stick so that it doesn’t disconnects during matches?

What do I do when the stick disconnects? Do I just replug it, or are there any fancy ways to reset it on the stick?

Select +3k (r2 on PlayStation) does a soft reset, wait 3-4 seconds after pressing them then press home to sign the controller back in.

How heavier are the new TE’s compared to the round one/round two ones?

How heavier are the new TE compared to the old TE?

Hey folks, noob here.
I’ve spent the last few days hawking the forums, absorbing rules and reading sticky threads as much as possible so I don’t end up being a bother.
Same as most people on this thread, I’m looking to build a custom fight stick from the ground up (kinda, im going to buy a pre made frame or whatever), I’ve watched a handful of tutorials and done a good bit of googling, but one question I have, would I be able to use it on my PS4, do I need to buy a retail stick, or is there some sort of specific item I should buy that works with the PS4?

Thanks in advance

Hori Fighting Commander 4 pad for the pcb, it will work flawlessly on PS3, PS4, and PC. But unless you are experienced at soldering then I’d recommend hiring a modder.

Welp, no experience with soldering, and I’m a cheap bastard, so is there anyway around this? or will hiring a modder be my best bet?

Earlier today I found my old Wii in my closet. It’s totally busted and doesn’t turn on anymore, so I figured “Hmm… What if I disemboweled it and turned it into a stick?” The main issue was the I didn’t want it to be just like any standard 6/8-button viewlix/similar styled layout controller with JLF and OBSFs, as I already have my TE2 for that. I wanted to turn it into something that was actually different, and would therefore ensure that it sees some use. Initially, because it was a Wii, I thought of turning it into a Smash stick like BlackHombre did, but it sounded like a bit more troublesome to do as a solo project than it’s worth; not to mention the Wii is probably too small to fit everything required (stick, buttons, padhack GC PCB). After a bit more thinking, I figured I could turn it into a stickless arcade controller a la HitBox, using all 24mm sanwas.

A) I’ve been thinking of using the MC Cthulhu PCB, since it has built in SOCD cleaning. Is there a better PCB for hitbox style controllers?

B) To my understanding, the joystick lever does nothing more than actuate the microswitches in the assembly. That said, if I remove the lever all together and replace the microswitches with entire buttons, that’s how I’ll get my cardinals to work via the pushbuttons, right?

C) This is my first time doing this sort of project and I have zero experience with tools. Obviously I’ll need some way to turn the Wii into a case for buttons, PCB, etc. So I’ll need a way to make the holes that fit the 24mm sanwas, as well as the neutrik port I plan to use. Is there some kind of drill bit I can find at home depot for that?

A) This question is very polarizing so I will rephrase it: What is our opinion on hitbox pcb performance? Hitbox themselves use a PS360+ for cross system compatibility. A Cthulu will do the job if you are not playing on a 360.

B) You are correct, this is the concept of a Hitbox.

C) You will want a 24mm hole saw if you have a drill, they are fkin impossible to find here in the US. Closest I’ve found is 1in which is a hair too large, better to have a small hole saw and sand to size since you cannot add material as easily as removing it. For a neutrik port, I will defer to someone who has actually made them. This is a question I would like to know also :smiley:

@b15sdm, @souji5 any input on how to create the neutrik opening and screwholes?

For point B you don’t need to do anything as involved as that, you’d just run the wires that are part of the joystick’s harness to their button that coordinates with that direction.

I meant exactly that lol. I didn’t mean literally remove the lever from a JLF assembly or anything; just taking it out of the picture since its only purpose is actuating switches, which I’ll just be doing myself once the switches are replaced with entire buttons.