Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

Rebooting the thread since the last one was invaded by bots on the Unknown account.

Obligatory link to the old thread.

Please check this thread for a comprehensive list of quality posts.

Intro by Trouble Brewing (with some additional edits by d3v).

Welcome to the world of arcade sticks!

Many fighting game fans, both casual and competitive, decide at some point to ditch the pad for an arcade stick. At one time, the options for American consumers were very limited, but following the release of Street Fighter 4 and subsequent revitalization of the fighting game scene, many new products are available on the market.

Why use a stick in the first place?

Simply put, most fighting game fans find them to be the superior control method. The stick itself is generally considered to be more precise and fluid than a d-pad. Having access to six (or eight) buttons on the control panel is also extremely useful for many advanced techniques in a variety of games. Some of the older, grizzled veterans also prefer them as they grew up playing on arcade parts. The ?authentic feel? is very important to them.

That being said, when most people first change to a stick from a pad, they find their execution suffers in the short-term. This is totally normal! It takes most people a few weeks of practice to get used to playing on a stick. Spend some time in training mode before considering going back to pad, or altering your stick in some manner. You will adjust.

What is the best stick?

The truth is there is no ?best? stick. The answer is subjective. The important thing is understand the differences, so you can make good decisions for yourself.

What is the difference between Japanese and American parts?

In short, Japanese parts tend to be more sensitive and responsive. American parts typically require more effort to move and engage button commands. People generally view Japanese parts to be of higher build quality. That doesn?t mean they are necessarily ?better.? Most of the top Japanese and American players use Japanese arcade parts.

On top of that, these days pretty much all of the commercially available off-the-shelf arcade sticks use Japanese arcade hardware, so they are easier to find.

What is the difference between Sanwa, Seimitsu, and other manufacturers?

Sanwa and Seimitsu are the two largest producers of Japanese arcade hardware. Which should you get? Ideally, try both out and decide which you prefer. If that isn?t an option for you, just get a stick with Sanwa parts. The Madcatz TE stick is full Sanwa stick and buttons and most of the Hori Real Arcade Pro (HRAP) line has a Sanwa stick at minimum. Seimitsu parts also have a lot of fans, but really, you can?t go wrong with Sanwa.

As far as American parts go, ironically the best American parts currently come from a European company, ?iL.? If you?d like to know more about Sanwa, Seimitsu, and the other arcade part companies, consult the essentials thread.

What stick should I buy?

There are basically four price ranges sticks come in: around $50, around $120, around $150, and $250+.

Around $50

Get the Mad Catz SE

In the $50 range, you first need to understand that these sticks do not have real arcade parts in them. They use knock off parts. If you want an entry level stick, or aren?t sure how serious you are about fighting games as a hobby, they are good options.

Why the Mad Catz SE? It?s very easy to mod. If you ever decide you want to move on to real arcade hardware, Sanwa and Seimitsu parts more or less drop right in.

Around $120

The around $120 range generally features sticks with arcade parts, full or partial. The big sticks to look out for here are from Mad Catz and Hori.

Mad Catz offers the TE stick, which features a Sanwa stick and buttons. Hori offers the Real Arcade Pro (HRAP) line, which comes in a few flavors. Normal HRAPs have a Sanwa stick, but have Hori (read: knockoff) buttons. HRAP SAs are full Sanwa, stick and buttons. HRAP SEs are full Seimitsu. Both the Mad Catz and Hori lines are easily modded with other parts, so those knockoff parts in the HRAP3 line can be easily dealt with. The HRAP and TE lines also have slightly different button layouts.

You can?t really go wrong with any of them. The one thing the Mad Catz TE has going against it is the lack of backwards compatibility with playing PS2 games on the PS3. Most people don?t use the PS3 for serious play of PS2 games anyway. Other than that, the TE is a solid choice. There are certain specialty mods (dual console modding) that are much easier to do on the TE than the Xbox 360 HRAP line.

$150

The 150 and above price range is usually reserved for top of the line arcade sticks with premium features. These features may include dual console functionality (at the cost of official licensing from Sony or MS), ease of modding with swing open top panels, touch panels, LED lighting, metal construction, etc.

Examples of these include the Hori Fighting Edge, MadCatz Tournament Edition 2, Hori VLX, the various multi console Qanba sticks, and the Razer Atrox.

$250+

The $250+ range is generally reserved for custom builders. There are a number of excellent custom builders lurking around SRK.

Sticks in this price range are for people who aren?t satisfied with off-the-shelf sticks, or want to have something unique. If you are just getting started in the arcade stick world, these might be more than you want to pay for. They are worth every penny though!

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Just to reboot my Q incase it gets buried. Where are people buying their PCB’s (other than AWUK) in the UK? Importing?

Probably me.

1 Like

Alright - I used the search function, found the appropriate threads, followed their advice/instructions, and I still have this problem. Rather than make another thread, let me ask here:

My computer still refuses to recognize my PS360+. How do I get it to be recognized? I’ve updated the firmware, uninstalled the drivers, tried to force it into the Xbox/PS3 mode (didn’t work) - bootloader (?) worked though, which was how I updated it - and it is still an “Unknown Device”. I’ve read that it should work through an external USB hub, but I rather wait to see if there’s another option before buying one. Advice?

You try using a shorter USB cable?

Can someone lay out for me the best options regarding PS4 sticks? I’m gonna need one for Xrd when it drops and would also like PS3 functionality as that will probably be the tournament standard.

When it comes to PS4 sticks, your options are pretty limited at the moment.

Currently, there are only two mass-produced sticks available for the PS4. Those would be the Hori RAP v.4 and the Madcatz TE 2. The Hori RAP v.4 was recently released in the United States and makes use of the Hori Hayabusa lever and Hori Kuro buttons. (I own this stick personally, and I would recommend the Hayabusa lever, but have removed the Kuro buttons in favor of Sanwa OBSFs). This stick is also compatible with PS3.

The Madcatz TE2 for PS4 in unreleased, but is available for pre-order from Madcatz’ website. It makes use of a Sanwa JLF and Sanwa OBSF buttons by default. It features top panel which can be opened via a button on the front of the stick, allowing access to the internal storage compartment and wiring for the buttons and lever. It also has a detachable cable. I assume you’re familiar with the parts included on this stick, as almost everyone has used Sanwa parts at this point, so I won’t bother with describing the quality of the parts. This stick is also compatible with PS3.

Aside from those two options, the only other way to currently obtain a PS4 Arcade Stick is to commit to a custom build. This requires either padhacking a Dualshock 4 or third-party controller, or adding a PCB from one of the two sticks mentioned in this post to your current build. The DualShock 4 padhack is fairly difficult to my understanding, so keep that in mind.

Here are a few links as to where to find the available sticks at the moment:

Hori RAP v.4: http://www.amazon.com/HORI-Real-Arcade-Hayabusa-PlayStation-4/dp/B00L6AVN5E

Madcatz TE 2 PS4: http://store.madcatz.com/categories/fightsticks-category/Mad-Catz-Ultra-Street-Fighter-IV-Arcade-FightStick-Tournament-Edition-2-for-PS4-PS3.html

Padhack Thread: Dual Shock 4 PadHack Thread - aka you should padhack the hfc4 pad instead

  1. I’ve been looking into building my own HitBox lately—but all the threads I’m interested in are like 4+ years old. How do I know if the information presented in these threads is outdated without making a new thread?

  2. I’ve read SlagCoin (5 years old), but it only talks about PCBs from other controllers. I’d like some kind of current guide on building your own Fightstick/HitBox (I think things have come to the point where it’s possible to do this solderlessly). Where can I find this?

  3. All the guides I see on http://www.focusattack.com/phreakmods-cerberus-ps3-pc-joystick-pcb/ require… mounting it to another PCB? What’s up with that?

Trying a shorter cable was the… second thing I did. After testing it out on another computer (which didn’t work). First cable which came with the PCB, from Focus Attack, was 15ft. The shorter one was 6ft.

  1. Not much of the things are that outdated. I used some of those old guides in making Skelebox. The only things that might be different are the PCBs - design’s, button’s, stick’s (or more button’s, for your hitbox) are pretty the same… Well, that might be a more economic design, but that’s that. But yeah, this is probably the better thread to ask in, without necro-ing the other threads.

  2. Pretty sure I used Slagcoin as an initial resource in building BPS, so it should still be relevant. I’ll confirm later.

  3. I guess it’s for a more organized design.

http://etokki.com/Misc/Anti-Slip-Tape

Anyone know where to order something like this online or get in person? I tried Ace today but no luck. Maybe Lowe’s?

1 Like

I meant moreso—why are there two PCBs in the first place? If I’m building one from scratch, can’t I just use the one I linked by itself?

The Cerberus is a PCB that allows a Xbox 360 stick (like a standard MadCatz) to access a PS3 - essentially, a dual mod. So unless you want to play on both systems, it’s not necessary to get it. So… yeah, to the second question.

Hey again guys,

Darksakul: If you happen to read this, this is the wire I was talking about.

http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah110/vchanser/IMG_1725_zpse3f109da.jpg

http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah110/vchanser/IMG_1726_zps62fefb85.jpg

it’s hard to see what that stray wire is connected to. follow it to a point on the pcb or the main outgoing cable and we’ll be able to offer some better advice. did you want to keep it as a ps2 stick?

I thought about making a new thread for this but I’ll ask here first. Please advise if I should make a thread.

I have recently built a stick using the PS360+ PCB and I am going to be adding XB1 support to it via the Crossbone this weekend. The Crossbone has a system switcher built into it where I can assign whichever button I’d like to use (Home in my case) to autodetect the other PCB when the stick is plugged in. After I get this taken care of I would like to padhack in PS4 support. The issue I want to clear up is console switching. I do believe I can use an IMP v2, attach the PS4 padhack to it along with the PS360+, and assign the Select button to switch to the PS4 PCB instead of using the PS360+ when pluggin in my stick. I’d like to know if my thought process on this is correct and if anybody has done this what type of issues you might run into?

Thanks!

Hey coffee juice. Thanks for the reply. I’ll try to take pics later. But I think it used to be soldered. If you look at where the red wire is, at the same level of it to the right, that was the old solder. Probably keep it as a ps2 since I have adapters for Xbox already

I’m looking for a xtokki converter. They are out of stock in etokki.com and they don’t know if it will be available in the future. Are there any retailers that carry these that are also willing to ship to Europe? The only one I’ve found is an american ebay seller with bad feedback.

I already bought a PS2 pad but it’s pretty useless without a converter. I would buy a Mad Catz Fight Pad but apparently the d-pad is not very durable and they seem to be out of stock everywhere anyways.

The original xbox controller is driving me crazy.

Never mind. Found one from xgaming.com

Hey I was wondering if anyone has done anything with Toodles TEKitty firmware, or any of his other firmwares and could give me some help with making some changes to them. I want to improve some of the support on the smash bros parts of the drivers. I have programming experience and can do everything once I really know where to get started.

Nope.

IIRC only Toodles has access to the code, it was ever made public. And it hasn’t been updated in a long time.