Acrylic/Plexiglass for your HRAP 3/EX and Mad Catz TE

Hey Guys,

My original post ( was closed, and understandably so as it belongs in the trading section. But again, I’m not a long enough member to post there so I posted here to see what the interest would be. And I wanted to post this sooner than later because I wanted to give people an alternative from ripping the original art from their HRAPs and using the adhesive method.

I want to contact an admin and talk about my options on posting on the subject, but I don’t see any contact info, and emails don’t work. And I didn’t want to flood someone’s personal chat with a long message.

So what I would like to do is create this post just to point some of you guys to my (Crappy) site:

**In an attempt to keep this thread open, I only wish to discuss reviews of the plexiglass for those who have already received theirs and to showcase what they have done with their sticks. **

I ask that you PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE :pray: do not inquire about ordering here or ask about foreign shipping. I will not respond to it. Such information should be reviewed on my site, or emailed to me

My site will be getting a new design soon and updates/notifications will be made there. Also the FAQ section will be updated soon, so please check periodically.

Now in regards to Plexi for the Mad Catz TE. Because I’ve had a decent amount of people inquiring about it, I recently acquired an overpriced TE just to get the panel to see how well I can do it. I have a VERY busy upcoming weekend but I will try my hand at the TE cover prototype and update you guys next week.

Thanks again for all those supporting me in this endeavor, and please share your thoughts, reviews, and showcase your custom art with the plexi.

If any modder is considering closing this thread, I ask that you please communicate with me on what I need to change before doing so? Thanks!

Looking forward to the TE cover!

I would like a TE cover!

Are you considering doing plexi for any other sticks? I’d be interested in Hori T5, FS3/Wii and EX2 sticks. With the T5 and FS3/Wii ones, it’d be cool to have a 6 button option or leave the button holes undrilled.

Leaving certain holes uncut is no problem. But I can’t make an accurate cut without having the actual panel in my hands to use. And I don’t have a T5, Wii, nor any of the EX sticks. =(. An option I might consider is someone could send me their panel, I make the cut, and send it back. But I’m not sure if that whole process will be worthwhile. I’ll explore that at a later date.

Now the thing about the EX type fightsticks are that the screws are underneath the current art. You’d still have to rip the original art off to get to the screws and with the plexi over it, the screws that go through the plexi will show, and protrude. I can countersink a thicker plexi, but for a thin one I’m not too sure.

I also have that issue when considering doing it for the SE sticks. Forgot the screws are underneath the art =P

Isn’t the T5 the same size as a normal HRAP?

-EX :cool:

Aye, but I believe the button layout is different. :crybaby:

Check out this guys stick. I want to do something like this. The EX and FS3/Wii sticks have a metal panel, but then also have a good deal of plastic underneath forsupport and mounting the joystick.

You’re right, except for the turbo box, but he can leave certain parts uncut/undrilled.

I recently acquired a Hori FS3, if you would like I will let you borrow it so that you can make plexi’s for it.

Remember, I also live in SJ.

you’ll likely make back every dime you spent on that TE with the replacement plexi you’ll sell for it.

when you purchase a stick like the TE, and put a few natural wear dings on it through time, 16-20 bucks for a clean replacement sounds like a really good deal. I would seriously consider doing bundles for like 50 bucks or something where you’d get a few of the plexi replacements in one package. I think TE owners will snag these up very quickly, expect good business.

I’d definitely be in for one if I had an HRAP or TE, but I’ve decided to go custom.

I’d be interested in a generic rectangular pieces, based on the more popular dimensions and button layouts, like Norris’ custom boxes?

I’m looking forward to my custom box build, but I’m not looking forward to working with plexi, particular cutting it down to size and the creating clean holes. Now if I had the precut plexi to work with, I can easily cut my wood to size.

Just wanted to throw in that the FS3 and Wii FS use the same metal plate, and would be able to share the same plexi.

I’m a bit confused…

do you replace the HRAP metal panel with the plexi, or use it in conjunction?

if you replace, how do you secure the artwork?

they look spiffy! :slight_smile:

I’d take one for an SE, if you can figure out the slope.

Well guys, I don’t know what to say on the issue, but after speaking to a couple of the Powers that Be on this forum, I may need to take my post down. Regardless of how I word my post, even a minute reference to “taking orders” (linke to selling website) is a violation due to my lack of time on the board.

I’m going to have a last ditch effort to see if Mr. Wizard can give me some consideration on what I may do to continue to bring attention to the plexi’s. But if he gives the no-go, then I guess I can’t really bring it up anymore.

I’ll just have to hope that some word of mouth can bring enough attention for me to continue my endeavors. The whole point was to give people an option from ripping off their original panel art and using the semi-permanent adhesive solution. Waiting another 4 months and who knows how many sticks would’ve been gone through such an intrusive facelift.

Well, guess I’ll see if I can catch you guys later on the issue. I’ll just try to update my website to keep you guys in the loop on what’s going on. :sad:

Check PM’s please.

Since I see the new thread I’ll post before it’s gone I guess. I received my plexi plate today and immediately went to work on my HRAP EX. I was surprised to find how hard it was to take off the QD’s from the Hori buttons. Anyways, got them all off and put my plate on and then started adding my Sanwas. It was a very tight fit on the 1/16th and I was careful when pushing them in. I even had to shave off some of the notch on the inside of the Sanwa to get it to fit flush but once I did it was solid. Put it all back together and it looked nice! I go to play and I was very surprised how much just 1/16th of extra thickness messed with the memory in my hands at first. Took a few matches to get used to it but when i did I was fine. All in all this plate looks awesome. Arthong did a very good job with them and if he makes some for the TE I will buy one. I was literally staring at how awesome my stick looks now and appreciating that “final touch” of wow to the stick. Funny thing is that I didn’t even add art, I just wanted something to protect the original cover, LOL. Definitely recommend this but wouldn’t go thicker than 1/16th…just my own personal opinion. Good job arthong.

Posting here also before this gets deleted, hopefully not though. Even though art’s only been a member for a while feedback like benjiedude’s are common for him.

Nice to hear feedback on the 116. Art did mention that the 116s still have a tight fit on the snap-ins and a little extra care is needed not to bend the plexi in half. It’s nice to hear it’s tough. :stuck_out_tongue:

When I get my 332s I will post feedback as well. I got 332s because I plan to be changing art out fairly frequently and I don’t want the button edges on the plexi wearing out or cracking on me.

Good job art!

Thanks again for the review, BenjieDude! And who the hell’s been giving you the neg reps? You’re a very pleasant person to communicate with.

Again, I appreciate the great support Imitrex, and Sicnarf. People like you on the SRK forums is what makes the effort worthwhile =).

To answer a few more questions while I can.

The Plexiglass is not a “replacement”. It’s an addition to be added on top of the original HRAP metal panel. And if custom art is involved, the plexi sandwiches the art with the HRAP metal panel =)

The slope is technically not the problem. It can be done with some extra time and effort. Right now, after being reminded that the SE case’s screws are under the artwork, I’m a little concerned when the plexi will force the screws on top, and the original art still needs to be removed. Not sure how that would exactly workout, and if people really want the screws to show up like that. I will try to experiment at a later time to see how it can turn out.

Thanks again man, I’ll try to work something out when the time comes. And uh… I keep staring at your avatar…

You guys are great =D

Art, hit me up with those pics when you can. Thanks man.