Agetec Mod worth it? or new stick?


#21

LOL sorry my bad, my english fails when I try to get complex. (edited)
Im just saying that it was better for them in the first place to simply cover the costs of the package you sent back and resend you your correct order.


#22

No problem. :tup:

Yeah it probably would’ve been better for him, because I have personally convinced a good number of people to order from Akihabara shop or Lizard Lick because of it.


#23

I found out about Airthrow’s drama quite a while after I’d ordered from Nareg a few times. So far, I haven’t really had anything negative to say about his business, really, but to me that’s just what it is… business.

Frankly I’m just as likely to order from LL as I am GamingNow, but after having such a horrible experience, I don’t blame Airthrow one bit for not wanting to buy from them or letting someone else do so either. I freely confess it’s probably smarter to not buy from GamingNow; the only reason I ever do is, shipping is cheaper and tends to arrive sooner (that probably has a lot to do with where I am though).

ANYWAY!

Agetec was my first mod, actually. If you have a decent Dremel-like tool, the button holes can be easily filed, just don’t go overboard. I don’t know if it’s been mentioned yet, but the Agetec stick uses Omron microswitches straight out of the box, same as a Sanwa JLF, so you might be fine with the stock stick. I’ve kept mine and been able to do spring mods and whatnot pretty easily to get the stick to match the resistance I like (I prefer a more Seimitsu-type resistance to my sticks, not the looseness of a JLF).

For what it’s worth, I plan to drop some crowns in my second Agetec mod, for convenience and because I haven’t tried them yet, so it’s a good excuse to do so :slight_smile:


#24

I’ve done an Agetec mod and only recommend doing it if you’ve done a few other stick mods before.

Here’s the thing that’s bad about an Agetec mod… You have to cut an awful lot of plastic to get a new joystick to fit.

I chose to put in an LS-32-01 and apparently that’s more work than putting in a Sanwa JLF but that’s the stick I wanted to use and I haven’t regretted it.

As for the buttons, you only have to widen the holes in the metal faceplate to put in Sanwa or Seimitsu 30mm buttons. It’s the same procedure as the Hori T5 mod… Get a good Dremel, put on sanding bands, and grind away. It’s not the toughest metal to grind at, btw. What IS tough are grinding the holes consistently and widening the diameter concentricly. You may want to mark out the new hole diameters with pencil before Dremeling. Also periodically stop and do check fits with the 30mm button on top of the plastic casing, too.

The most cutting you have to do on the case (besides the joystick mount which is a process in itself and by far the hardest thing to do on the mod if you go the universal mount mod route – which is good for JLF OR LS-32-01) are the undersides of the button holes on the plastic case. You have to do a lot of shaving there and try and get it as flush as possible with the case top. (I used the round metal cutter for the Dremel to shave. It was the right diameter and I didn’t have to move it around so much. It cut pretty flush but it took a while to get there. I had to stop occasionally and break off melted plastic!) You don’t need the “tunnels” for the 30mm buttons you’ll put in but you do need to get the plastic as flush as possible so that the buttons clasp securely. Probably won’t need these as flush if you use screw-on buttons, though. That has the potential to be an issue, though, if you decide to get an Art Hong plexi…

You really have to do some extensive filing and sanding on the joystick mount area if you do the universal route. Even if you do an easier JLF-only mod, there are times you do NOT want to use a power tool. This is not a mod I’d recommend doing in one day. It took me the better part of two weeks limiting myself to like an hour, two-three tops per day to get it done well!

IF you choose to install an MC Cthulu in the stick, it’ll open a bigger world of compatible consoles for the stick, but that’s a whole other can of worms there.

(I’ve kept some “loose plastic” from the DC Case mod I intend to use – in addition to the VMU plastic slot – for an exterior RJ-45 hole when and if I do get an MC Cthulu for the DC stick. Right now, I’m still using the Agetec PCB…)


#25

this is of course if you decide to simple widen the original holes in the top plate…

art however, makes a nice plexiglass sheet which will require no dremeling at all… which actually makes this mod slightly easy. all you’d have to mod is the joystick slightly.