Analog PSX PCB

If I remove the analog pcb from the main pcb in a psx dual shock pcb, what will be the consequences?
I heard that it can ruin the pad, anyone knows something about it?


With not picture to see which revision board you have, no one can answer. What you call the ‘main’ pcb may actually be the useless half. shrug No pics, so not sure.

In general, you do not want to move the alalog controls from any controller. There are ways you can, but they vary from system to system.

toodles, quick question, i did a psx pcb hack (h series) and when i play ps2 games (that allow analog sticks) the cursor goes haywire, whats the best solution to stopping this aside from an analog button? i was gonna desolder and remove the analog stick box but will that fuck anything up?

Hey Sarda I had asked the same question recently. I decided not to risk it and just mount it. Here is my thread

M4sh I had another similar issue. 3rd Strike (Anniversary Edition) had a disable analog in game options, so that worked fine. MVC2 also worked without having to change any settings…I figure in the future if it’s needed I’ll just throw in an analog button or use a wire to connect button to ground everytime I startup…Depends on how lazy I get.

yea i got that but sf2ae, kofxi and rumble fish among others dont work, actually looking at it, it doesnt go “haywire” more like holds up, im thinking removing the small boxes will alleviate that.

There’s no way to tell it to not check the analog; all you can do is force it to read that the stick is just in the middle.

The analog has a potentiometer to see how far in a direction is has been moved. Im not sure from the description of you have removed the original analog. If you haven’t, then its probably slightly stuck going in that direction. Open the case, put the little stick back to neutral, and use hot glue or epoxy to hold it in place in the middle.

If you’re desparate to fix it where you either fix it or replace it, there are other harder things you can try. One is removing the big ass analog stick portion and the metal box holding it, but leaving the potentiometers soldered to the board. You can adjust the potentiometers without the stick with a little flatblade screwdriver until they are in the middle.

If you have removed it, things get difficult. Whether you have or haven’t, you last chance is to remove the potentiometers and the analog stick and replace the potentiometers with resistors. The potentiometers use three holes. For each potentiometer, use two identical resistance resistors, at a pretty high value (1k-10k Ohms I would guess) to replace them. Put one leg from each resistor in the middle hole, and the other legs into the other holes. Solder and test.

It’ll be stuck on 0 for one of the joysticks i think and thus just keep giving you one input.You’ll be able to press other stuff but the input from the joystick will still be read.It’ll vary from game to game,but it should be similar to the left joystick being held.Just theory,but yeah…dont try it!

I removed the analog pcb from my 2 sticks and they both give random inputs in 3s, I didn’t know that option from the options menu i think that must solve the problem.
But games like AE the stick fucks all up with the character walking and jumping randomly. I’ve read the solutions that toodles gave it there but it wouldn’t be easier to make an analog button and press it to shut off the analog functions?

alright, some more digging has gotten me to this point. it holds up+left.
unplugged the controller, unplugged the harness from the seimitsu, AND held down+right on the analog stick while plugging the controller in, and the character still jumped back over and over. Got mad then proceeded to rip out the analog stick and the Yaxis controller (so inside the metal box is just the white plastic piece) and i twisted would try to adjust the plastic so maybe at least he would jump up instead of up+left. nothing, checked my wiring everythings a-ok.
so to recap the metal analog boxes are empty except for the white plastic and toying with both potential meters produce nothing.

Sounds like the lines from the pots have already been cut from the IC. Scrap it and use a new PCB.

i just got two more a series pads
ones older (two brownwires bridging across the front and the slip for the solderhack is on the front.)
the newer one is doing the same thing that my old one did (holding up+left on games that support analog sticks)

the older one doesnt, and its driving me crazy.