<< Arcade Cabinet Q&A Thread >>



American Parts - http://www.happcontrols.com
Japanese Sticks/Buttons - http://www.himuragames.com

If anyone has any more useful links please post in the thread so this top post can be updated!

I don’t think theres a thread like this, there should be one IMO! Sticky it too!

I just got an arcade cabinet today…

I want to fix it up, replace the buttons/sticks with new ones. Does anyone know where the service buttons/dip switches are for the TTT board? I couldn’t find it for the life of me.

Also what’s the best kind of plexiglass to get(and where) to replace the plexi on the control panel.

Also everyone else, share your arcade cabinets!


How much you pay for that cab Markman? Did you already have the TTT board beforehand?


I actually didn’t spend any money on it, I traded with some guy who had the machine on some sneaker forums I visit. I traded 2 pairs of my shoes for it. It came to me with the board.


what sneaker forums, just curious i like to visit forums that have sections like forsale/trade, ive gotten good deals on everyday stuff.


I didn’t even know there was sneaker forums. :xeye: Good bargin. You gona put 12 buttons in there instead of 8 or?


I have a Naomi board, but no cab yet for it. =x


What’s a good price for an Astro City or Blast City cab in decent condition? I was thinking about picking one up in a year or so, when I have enough money.


Just pull out the piece of Plexiglas that’s already in there and take it to a local plastics supply store, they should be able to match the old one with the same stuff. There should be some plastic suppliers in the yellow pages under plastic.


Astro City is ~$400. There arn’t many Blast City cabinets in the USA, but they are going to be more expensive, as they are a newer and have multisync monitors that can do 15khz -24khz - 31khz.


Theres a local place here called “taps plastic” that where I get the polycarbonate (lexan) for my control panels. Don’t use plexiglass, it’s a little cheaper but it cracks easily when your putting the holes in it.


First off albert_c and supabeast, thanks for the replies… so go for lexan opposed to plexi? I’ll check it out. Thanks in advance. Around how much do you think a control panel replacement would cost?

Also for sneaker forums to those who asked… www.niketalk.com and www.issforums.com/forums

Someone sticky this thread!


Here’s two for candy cab owners, specifically Astro City’s:

  1. Mine has the high pitch whining, coming from the flyback transformer after being on for a couple of minutes. I’ve take the back panel off and gotten to the guts of the monitor, but I can’t for the life of me figure out where the flyback doohickey is. I want to do the fix from ‘therealbobroberts’ at http://homearcade.org/BBBB/whiny.html, but I can’t figure out where to shove the toothpick. If pictures would help, Ill take some, just say so.

  2. How are you supposed to mount PCB’s in the cabinet? The large door shows all of the insides and no kind of shelf to mount the boards. Right now I have a vampire savior cps2 board in there, just resting on its side between the power supply and the coin bucket/harness part. What is the proper way of installing a pcb in this beast? I need to know because I’m hoping to put a 6 slot neo in soon.


toodles, I had the exact same singing flyback problem on the Astro 2
heres a link that might help
(edit - ah thats the same as the link you posted)

although I didn’t use a toothpick, instead we de-soldered & removed the flyback entirely (remember to discharge that mofo or you are gonna get a 30.ooo volt zap) poured glue ( I kid you not !) down into the ferrite core, re-soldered it back into place and that seems to have solved the problem. I know using glue may sem. . .a little weird but there was no way a toothpick was gonna sort this problem. I actually have a spare Nanao anyways so I figured what the hell, if it works great if not install other monitor and grab a tri res chassis for future use, altho the only tri res chassis I have seen for reasoably cheap have been from CosmicCo and they are cheap china brand shit so I’m not sure of the quality

the flybacks on the Nanao’s are located at the back left of the monitor chassis (the big black thing with a red wire coming off it)
that red wire is what carrrys the 30,000 volts

MarkMan - if you want any advice on systems or pictures of some Japanese arcade machines, feel free to drop me a PM, I am less inclined to post lots of pictures thesedays as I was accused of “bragging” ( I was actually trying to help someone aswell) and I now tend to stick to posting the pics either on our own forum (www.killercabs.com/forum) or via private message. but seeing as that is what this thread is all about, heres a few to wet your appetite

( FT courtesy of Toodles ! !)


megalo u left out the pic of ur living room with the 4x 52 inchers :stuck_out_tongue:


Mr-Megalo thanks for all the help thus far!


Mr-Megalo - Yup, that picture of the rear of the monitor is identical to mine, except the adjustment controls were ran to be under the CP. If you get a chance, a photo with a line showing where I can jam the toothpick or two would be appreciated. I know which part is the flyback, but I can’t tell which part is the ferrite ring that’s come loose.

One of your pictures also showed the pcb mounting to a piece of plywood mounted vertically in the middle of the cabinet. That’s make a lot of sense so answered that question. Do you have any experience in vertical mounted 6 slot (or any other multi-slot or MV1-C boards, where the cartridge is not parallel to the board)? I just won an auction for a (hopefully) easy to fix 6 slot with a burned out edge connector, and am thinking about putting it into the astro. Anything I need to watch out for? Also, other than the plywood sitting in that little groove in the chassis,I only see on spot for a screw to secure the plywood to ensure it’s vertical. Are there any others?

Lastly, I had the guy I bought the astro from put in a kick harness, but he kind of did a sloppy job. Instead of wired to a panel mount molex connecter like the original buttons and sticks are, the wires are loose straight to the connector. Sloppy. Do the know the ‘standard’ pinout of the panel mount molex connectors for the kick harness buttons? I know I could set them up however I want and just wire the buttons to match, but I believe standards make things a whole lot easier down the road.

Yes, I know I type too much and have problems describing things. Let me know if anythings unclear and I’ll try to explain or take photos.

And last one for this post, I swear…any cheap places for getting cylinder locks that find the astro city? I have one key for the locks that hold the CP in place, but none for the main door panel, coin box, or coin mech doors.


The plywood sits in the groove and then you mount your PCB with PCB feet and screws. You don’t need to mount CPS2, and you really can’t unless you take the actual PCB out.

6 Slot is not JAMMA standard, you will have to change your harness a bit, and I don’t know if it is going to fit (I don’t know how big they are).

The kick harness should go from the buttons straight to the connector (I assume you have a CPS2/CPS3 kick harness). JAMMA standard is 3 buttons but there is a 4th button that can be used, only those 4 will go through the molex connector in the control panel.


Why can’t I mount the CPS2? Thats what those black metal feet that slide into the grooves on the bottom of the A board are for. I know how to mount a pcb into wood,I own 4 cabinets. I’m just curious if there is anything more than the single screw hole for securing the plywood vertical.

The physically fitting is what I’m curious about. As for the changing the harness, hehe, I’ve got some MAD plans for that I’ve been working on for a while now. I’ve got almost all of the schematic laid out for what I need, and its gonna be awesome. I’m making an interface, a 6 button street fighter-to-MVS interface. Easy, right? That’s not the cool part. Each player can toggle using button combinations between the curved four button layout (short-A, jab-B, strong-C, fierce-D, activated by pressing roundhouse+fierce) and 2x2 layout (jab-A, short-B, strong-C, forward-D, activated by pressing roundhouse+forward), cycle through the games (P1 RH+ P1 Up for game select up, P1 RH+P1 Down for game select down), and two DIP switches on the interface board in the cabinet, to enable/disable home mode (home mode being roundhouse+start is coin, and some other combination for system menu) and enable/disable using the stereo RCA connectors instead of the mono audio through the jamma harness (in case I ever install a q sound amp). The end result being a single board that plugs between a SF cabinet and a MVS board, with all the bells and whistles, and NO modification to the cabinet or wiring.

I think you’re misunderstanding what Im saying. There is a piece of metal at the rear of the control panel compartment, which holes in it for panel mount molex connectors to go. Any strain on the buttons it felt at the molex connector. Any strain on the jamma harness is felt at the molex connector. Need to replace the jamma harness in busy arcade? No problem, undo about 6 molex connections, remove the old harness, and redo 6 molex plugs, and you’re done. Same with the button wires. It’s really slick, and the original buttons and sticks were wired this way. The kick harness the guy put in was not however. Yes, electrically, the wiring is straight to the connector. But physically, having the wire go from the button to the molex connecter, and the molex connector to the kick harness, is just cleaner. I would just like to know if there is a ‘standard’ pinout before I do it.


The price depends on how big it is and especially the thickness. For a control panel like yours it would be around 15.00 bucks.


just a quick reply ( its almost 2am and I’m abouts to hit the sack )
Toodles - the monitor I linked to, the PCB controls for hori vert brightness etc - I fastened mine to the back of the frame for storage sakes, ordinarily it is fitted under the CP but I didnt want to leave mine dangling so while it is in the cupboard I put on the fram to keep it out of the way.

the flyback/ferrite core part on the Nanao flyback, I’ll whip the back off my Astro 2 and try to take a few snaps for you, I literally just had glue poured into the middle as you could see the casing coming away from the middle of what looks like a strip of metal. I dont think a toothpick could be used, but it was about a year ago when I had all this sorted so my recollection of it is a little patchy (stoner-itis / too much Jack D n Cherry Coke :rofl:)

RE: mounting a Neo Setup, mounting a 6 slot - really that depends on how much space you have inbetween the PSU, you can mount a 1 slot easily tho, I also have an MV-1C. You can also mount a CPS2 setup if you have the mounting clips that clip into the bottom of the board
you can see them in this next picture

you dont really need to mount CPS 2 - you can just rest it inside the cabinet ( I do this regularly) but just make sure the test/volume buttons are facing upwards so it isnt resting on the buttons

notice the phono connectors are at the bottom

RE: the pinout for other kick harness’s, I’ll get back to you on that one, it all depends on which cab you have, which connectors are wired in to the connection plate in the CP and whether you have the additional male connector etc. to have the CP2/3 connectors wired directly to buttons 4,5 & 6 instead is not uncommon, buttons 4 & 5 are usually connected up on the JAMMA edge connector but as Valgar says mostly only button 4 is wired to the CP molex.

right - I’m off to bed - speak laters