Arcade stick for PC, considering TE2+


I have read several reviews and discussions on arcade sticks but a lot of the performance/input lag are based on consoles so I am unsure how well they perform at the PC level, with the myriad of variations that can exist. I have no intentions for serious mods outside of octogate upgrade and currently use Hori RAP v3-sa for the ps3 on my PC and in the market for a top of the line arcade stick.

Have any of you experienced major issues using console sticks for SFV aside from the initial release’s issues with input support? Any degradation/upgrade of input lag? I am about to pull the trigger as I want to get back in the game soon so I want to make the purchase by the end of the week.


There were stickies you should’ve read before posting here, but here is a good thread to read up on for this: Definitive Retail Playstation 4 Arcade Sticks List with Info/Facts/Photos/Advantages/Disadvantages
To answer your question, I’d go with the HRAP4 personally. Don’t worry about input lag either, no stick is gonna have severe input lag in the retail market ATM.


You need to install Xoutput 0.11 if you intend to play Street fighter 5 with a non Xbox/Xinput controller, as SF5 only supports xinput devices directly. X360CE can work, but one person recently had trouble getting x360CE working and he replied that Xoutput 0.11 worked instantly the first time.

A Hori Rap4 Kai (the Kai version has the Hayabusa buttons, which are much better than the Kuro buttons) will get you there if you don’t mind using xoutput 0.11. A Madcatz TE2+ will also serve you well, if you want all sanwa parts. Then you still retain the ability to use the stick on a real PS4 when the time comes.

If you want a completely gorgeous stick, you can try the Hori Rap4 VLX (the red version, not the black “Kuro” version as that has kuro buttons), but it’s large, heavy and be prepared to cough up nice cash for it.


Hori Rap4 Kai’s have a PC switch now that has xinput


Ah, good find! In that case, Hori Rap4 Kai then. Just make sure it has the Hayabusa buttons and NOT the Kuro buttons, because the Kuro version does NOT have the PC/xinput switch!

Hori didn’t communicate this change very well as the two revisions have the same model number.
You can see the PC switch and the Hayabusa buttons on that link in the new revision.

if you want to play Street fighter 5 without third party tools, you need that switch.

A bit surprised that the 2016 (Red) version of the Hori Rap4 VLX does not seem to have the xinput switch (it looks like the PS3 and PC switches are the same switch on the Kai new version).


Yes I have combed through those but as I have mentioned, outside of build, they all pertain to consoles.

It seems I have forgotten to mention I am already playing SFV or have been playing since release using x360CE for my RAP v3. I have had the stick for over 5 years and it is getting worn out so it is time for an upgrade.

Thanks for the reply. I chose the TE2+ because it has strong reviews and I am already used to sanwa despite having no experienced with the other; just to play it safe. Another reason was according to they do have driver support for PC.

The price difference is minimal ~$300 vs $225 which I have no qualms with such purchase. I had originally considered the VLX a couple of months back during it’s announcement but decided to wait for any issues to fan out as it was only available through import which means forfeiture of warranty. Hori always seemed to lack quality in their websites which made it hard to investigate their products before purchase leading to outside research. The metal body and weight/size were very appealing features for me but their lack of their own personal drivers for any of their products for use on the PC can be quite a turnoff.

Thanks for the recommendation, though I do own the latest consoles all my RL friends play on the PC so I am neither biased towards Xbox or PS controllers.

So my current dilemma would be:

  1. Go for the top end VLX series, set it to ps3 mode, and run 3rd party driver/software or hope for Capcom to fix this themselves
  2. Go for TE2+ with company backed drivers
  3. Go for RAP series for Xbox to avoid any drivers/software but lower quality build compared to TE2+
  4. Go for RAP v4 for PS4 and use PC mode


Would getting a second hand 360 TE suffice?


If your current stick is getting worn out, just replace the microswitches on any faulty buttons, and if it’s the lever at fault, then grease it up to see if that works, or just swap out the sanwa pcb/microswitch board. Or just put in a new jlf.

Why spend $200 when you can resolve the issue with $20


Thanks for the helpful suggestion! Though money isn’t an issue for me I’d like a more robust arcade stick than the RAP v3 which makes the VLX seem very appealing.

Thanks for the offer but I really want some of the newer designs.


Someone can correct me if I’m wrong, but I don’t believe none of the PS4 models of the VLX is xinput

That’s fair enough


I was going to suggest a 5th option: Qanba Q4raf, then you get the all Sanwa stick and buttons, and true xbox 360 support and ps3 support (except for the start button --protip: Put a $1 JLF joystick spring into the start button and enjoy life forever), but no PS4 support, and you just said you wanted new designs:

Well you basically made it clear:

Get the Hori RAP4 Kai (new version) if you don’t want to deal with drivers. You can always switch the stick lever out with a JLF anyway as the mounts are compatible. It’s not like you’re buying something that can’t be modded! I’m not going to get into a XX chassis has better build quality than YY chassis; you can do your own research anyway.

Get the VLX (Red version with Hayabusa buttons) if you want a very nice stick and are willing to deal with drivers/xOutput. Keep in mind you can STILL replace the joystick (and buttons if you really don’t like the Hayabusas) with JLF anyway.

The madcatz TE2’s xinput driver is basically the same thing as X360CE and Xinput 0.11 do anyway (Except Xinput 0.11 does this on a driver level rather than a wrapper, and adds no input lag; I don’t have any idea how much input lag the xinput checkbox adds on the madcatz TE2+ drivers if any; I don’t know if its a wrapper or actual driver or not).


I still stand with the HRAP4 Kai suggestion I originally stated. SFV ready, good parts stock, and can still be nodded. The Hori VLX is the beast tho, but no Xinput AFAIK.


Is there any distinct differences for the VLX Pro 4 vs the Pro 5? I am trying to buy the pro 5 but they look quite similar and I don’t want to end up with the wrong version.


Edited, I stand corrected. Oops.


Qanba Q4RAF, best stick I’ve ever owned.
I love how I can really give the buttons a good smack and it doesn’t feel like hitting a brick. (my TES+ for example feel like the buttons are sitting on a rock and won’t move no matter what, the Q4 feels like the buttons are sat in butter, nice and mushy ^^)
Stick itself also somehow feels a tad longer that my other sticks? I dunno what’s up with that, I never did look into that.
But the best part is how unbelievable durable that stick is.
Mine’s been hammered, flipped, thrown, and flew across the room once :expressionless: still works perfectly fine whereas I dropped my razer stick once and the case came loose…

Actually… I should get another one in case mine ever breaks for some reason :open_mouth:

Edit: forgot to mention that the Q4RAF works on Xbox 360 and PS3 as well.
I personally use Xbox 360 setting for PC since it works instanty with all the games I’ve tried so far whereas PS3/PC setting often doesn’t work or causes some weird issue where the menu navigation buttons are different (on PC GG XRD for example, set to PS3 the X button behaves like the O button and vice versa)


Not sure why arcadeshock’s slug has it marked for 4 but they list it as V/5;


Ok I stand corrected!
Even Amazon doesn’t have that stick labeled correctly. as you can see by their link.

Click the red and black and notice that its called the “Rap 4 premium VLX (Red)” yet it comes with Hayabusa buttons (Red) and Kuro buttons (Black).
So in actuality, the red one is the “5” and the black one is the “4” on amazon. And the Red having a release date of May 24, 2016, so it is the new version (5).

Ok, so yes, the pro 5 (updated for 2016) has hayabusa buttons and the pro 4 has Kuro buttons.
Amazon calls them both the pro 4 VLX

What’s funny is, they DO have the NON VLX versions named correctly as “4” (Kuro) and “5” (Hayabusa).


The Q4 is indeed a well built controller, and I prefer it over my madcatz x360TE, which is why my Brook Universal fighting board is in my Q4raf. Not only is it well enough built, the holes on the Brook UFB even line up evenly with the holes on the Q4’s PCB mounts (one on each side), so you can secure the Brook UFB right into it without even needing any extra screws or any extra tape or hot glue or mounting material. The most difficult thing about modding that is that the Select button is part of the turbo panel and not a 24mm OBSF button like the Start button is.

About the stick being a ‘tad bit longer’, I think this has something to do with the Qanba’s joystick mounting.
The Q4 has the joystick case mount as part of the panel via raised dimples, while other sticks, like the madcatz TE (not TE2+), which is heat welded directly into the case itself (instead of screwed), use an actual cabinet mounting plate. The JLF joystick still has its own rectangular plate, on all of the sticks), but there may be a minor difference in height from differences in the raised dimples vs case mounting. This difference might amount to maybe 0.5mm or something equally imperceptible. Perhaps this difference is why the Q4raf’s JLF always felt a TINY bit stiffer with the same components, compared to the madcatz X360 TE stick. Plate differences might give an extra 0.25mm compression to the spring?


V =Vewlix layout, 4 = PS4


Ah, slug = name adjusted for urls, hori-rap4-premium-vlx-controller-ps4-ps3