Are the Madcatz SE Sticks safe to buy now?

I’m assuming the newer batch should have addressed the issues that plagued the older ones?

Can anyone who got one recently confirm this? Sorry if this doesn’t deserve its own thread but I really don’t know where else to ask.

While I’m here I’m new to the whole ‘Stick’ scene, what is this gate business I am reading online? 4 way/8 way … I couldn’t find a dedicated guide to this anywhere on here, can someone please link me to a good one somewhere. Thanks.

Your friend dosen’t know what he is talking about lol.

Lol thank you, I thought so. It just didn’t make any sense.

And to anyone wondering, I edited the first post. I thought it would be better to get some ground knowledge on Sticks.

I dont know if the washer issue is resolved, but just expect to change atleast the stick after a while, as mine is utterly useless after about 80 hours use, and thats without the washer issue.

Buttons arnt much better now either to be honest, a couple of them are sticking quite often.

A gate is a small piece of plastic that restricts the movement of the stick, often labeled square or octagonal. The easiest way to think of this is to imagine the number of “corners” your stick has. A square gate gives you four corners, and an octagonal gives you 8 corners. A square only has the corners for diagonals, Up-Forward, Up-Back, Down-Forward, and Down-Back, and an octagonal has “corners” for those and up, down, left, and right.

I prefer the square gate, as it gives you a smoother feeling while rolling motions, but if you’re having problems knowing if you’re holding forward, backwards, up, or down, get an octagonal. Japanese arcade standard is square I believe.

not certain, but the washer problem is probs already fixed…well…that’s what markman said anyways - that the Quality Control would be looking specifically for this problem

Well I hope you’re right, I’ve finally decided to shell out the 80 bucks for an SE. I’ll have the stick and buttons switched for Sanwa parts … Now I’ll just have to wait for them to be in stock sometime this year. :rolleyes:

I was wondering the same thing, being that I’m going to be receiving one from a friend online. I tutored him in SF4 and helped him out, so he’s sending me his used SE stick.

So I have a question: how much would it cost to replace the buttons and fix the problems to have a solid stick? And also, will it require any soldering?

Thanks in advance to anybody who helps. :slight_smile:

around $70 for sanwa parts. No need to solder. Just pop them in.

Markman himself said that the next run of SE sticks IN APRIL would have a completely REDESIGNED stick.

please search

Eh, expensive for me being as I don’t have a job, but hey, still cheaper than buying a stick. shrug

Thanks. :slight_smile:

Sorry I don’t have Markman’s blog bookmarked, as a result I have to rely on those of you who do. :rolleyes:

Fuck off dude, dont do that rolleyes shit at me. Its called SEARCH

he posted in the OFFICIAL TE AND SE THREAD

who would have thought…

That thread is 577 pages long … Don’t you look like a douche right about now?

I go out of my way to help an 09 and this is what I get… my first post wasn’t even condescending.

You sir have a nice day, dont trip on your ego on the way out the door.

Fuck 09’s

Of course your post wasn’t condescending, all you did was …

  1. Make an obscure fact out to be general knowledge and instruct me to search before posting. (Very definition of a superiority complex)

  2. I reply, albeit with tongue in cheek, that it wasn’t obvious to me.

  3. You retort with profanity, and imply I should have read a certain thread in its entirety before posting.

  4. I bring to light the absurdity of suggesting I read a 600 page thread.

And now you’re upset, and somehow think my registration date correlates to anything worthwhile.

Whatever, those of you who were helpful, thank you very much … I’ll try my luck with the SE, and depending how it goes I might replace the stick with a Sanwa one.

for the Sanwa jlf you would be looking at around $30 shipped and then the push buttons are about $3 each which brings it up another $24. so for about $60 in parts (there is not really a reason to replace the start or back buttons) you should be pretty much all set.

if there was an option to get the TE at $150 i would say to go with that (i know you said you are already getting the SE model, but jus’ sayin’) rather than the SE. you would be getting all of the parts installed without voiding the warranty (and as with all mad catz shit i would try and keep that as long as possible), a bigger and seemingly nicer box to play on (i have gargantuan hands so i am a little biased), and a storage compartment for the pretty long cord.

personally i would not spend more than $200 for the TE though. i can wait and they will make plenty.

i forgot to mention good luck getting arcade parts in the current market. that will take some time especially if you are going to try and find a Sanwa stick…

If a 09er (like me) had replied with this answer he would have his head on a stick by now while the rest of the veterans point and laugh, a 02er that is just ignorant will go however go unpunished. Sigh.

A 4-way or 8-way gate has absolutely nothing to do with how many corners it has. Both the square and octagonal gates are considered 8-way, and so is a round gate that has no corners at all. The 8-way designation describes the fact that the shape of these gates allows you to register up to 8 directional inputs (4 cardinal directions and 4 diagonals). A 4 way gate (usually shaped like a plus, sometimes a rhombus) restricts diagonal movement outside the dead zone and thus only allows you to enage a single microswitch at a time so that you are only allowed the 4 cardinal directional inputs and never can go diagonally. One of the most famous example of an arcade game using a 4 way gate was Pacman where diagonal movement was forbidden. A 2-way gate also exists which allows you to only move left-right. This gate is shaped like a rectangle. You would need such a gate for a game like Space Invaders.

That’s a lie. It’s more like ~$55.

JLF = $25
LS-32-01 = $15

OBSF-30 = $3 x 8 = $24

$49 without shipping. Shipping doesn’t cost $21.

In any case, You might be able to get away with replacing just a few parts at a time. Even just the buttons makes for a much better experience. and really, you only need six of those. The stock black buttons are “good enough” if you’re just using them in the menus.