Bad PCB in MVC3 stick


#1

I recently installed a PS360 into my PS3 MVC3 arcade stick. While soldering the wire to the “home” button the gold circle came off the circuit board. I turned the board over and soldered to a point on the other side. After I got everything done and hooked it all up everything worked but the “home” and “turbo” buttons. I think I fried the circuit board in the controller. I searched online a little bit and couldn’t find a place that just sells the circuit boards. Any other options? Is there a aftermarket product that would work? Thanks.


#2

When you pulled the gold circle out, you effectively broke the circuit at that point. You must solder to a point in the wire that is connected to the central chip! You have two options, here: either solder to a point upstream of the torn contact (between it and the chip), or use a craft knife to scratch off a little bit the insulation and reveal a little copper on either end of the damaged point, and bridge the gap using a small bit of wire and some solder. You should hot-glue over the wire to keep it safe, should you choose this route. I had this problem myself; torn off a point on a SIXAXIS PS3 controller right next to the chip. I had to solder right to the chip to get it working again!


#3

Thanks for the reply. I’m a bit of a noob at soldering. Should have practiced a little bit more. I used a exacto knife to scratch up the surface below the copper circle I removed and tried to apply some solder but it wouldn’t stick. I’m not sure if thats what your referring to or not. I guess my only option now is trying to find a replacement board.


#4

No, that’s exactly what you’re supposed to be doing. Solder to that copper you exposed. Using flux will likely help. Or you can watch this soldering video I made, it might help your technique. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wX1dZIC0Gp0


#5

ok I will get sum flux and try that. Like I said I’m a noob at soldering. If that doesn’t work I will try and cut the trace and solder to that. Great video BTW. Helped me alot.


#6

Nerrage can I link your You Tube Video on my How to mod like a pro guide?


#7

Absolutely! I’m all for spreading the knowledge.

Just keep on practicing, you’ll be able to get it. I remember when I thought the space between the pins was impossibly small, but now it’s a nicely sized gap to me. Heh.


#8

Okay, that’s not exactly what I meant. The circle you pulled out was the wire itself–there’s nothing under it besides the bare board. You want to scratch off the light green insulation of the wire on either side of the circle to expose the copper underneath. You want to expose copper on either end, then bridge the gap where the round test point was with a small bit of wire, and solder the wire on both ends. The reason your solder isn’t sticking is because the board itself violently resists having any solder attach to it. You don’t solder to bridge gaps, you bridge the gap with something else and solder to secure it. I just did this yesterday, so if you’d like, I can send you a picture in a couple of hours when I get home.


#9

Oh, I got confused. :(. I thought you meant solder to the trace. I should read more thoroughly.


#10

Here we go–a quickie picture. I realized that the gap that I bridged was being covered by a pair of resistors I added in, so I flipped the PCB over and went and destroyed a test point for illustrative purposes. The brownish-gray round spot is the the exposed PCB board from where I “accidentally” tore off the test point. Things like this happen pretty often if, say, the insulation of your wire is really stiff or you use a glue gun too close to the solder point and you have to peel it off later. There’s nothing left there at all–just plain board. You have to scratch away the light green insulation from either side of the contact point to expose some copper wiring, and bridge the gap with a bit of wire. Good luck figuring out how to hold the wire in place. Then you simply solder the thing onto both sides and voila, a rescued circuit. Of course, if you still have some wire upstream to the processor, you can simply reveal some wire and solder somewhere along there, instead.

Any questions?


#11

Appreciate all the help. But after countless tries getting this to work I think my PCB is beyond repair now. I should have practiced a bit more with my soldering skills. I’ve contacted Madcatz and they say they do not sell the PCB’s seperatley. What are my options now? Would I have to padhack a PS3 controller and add two buttons for the home and turbo. Any after market accessories that would work?


#12

Padhacking a PS3 controller is pretty difficult–the test points are very close together and quite fragile. You can’t, say, scratch the large contacts for the buttons like on other controllers because the button switches are floating on a separate sheet that you have to remove. Not to mention that the PS3 controllers use three separate common lines. In other words, you need to use thin wires for this job, and prepare a detailed wiring scheme before you even start. And on top of all that, you still need to install a bunch of resistors since the buttons are all analogue. It’s oodles of work.

You might try hacking one of those PS3 Fightpads that came out back around SFIV Vanilla. Those might be common ground, but I’m just guessing here, honestly. Another solution might be to hack a PS1 or PS2 pad and use an adaptor, but the PS2 pads have the same all-my-buttons-are-analogue problem.

Oh, hold on, I just realized something. You popped off the home button test point, you said, but did you damage the one connected to the actual buttons at the top of the stick, or did you damage the main board? Because if you didn’t damage the main board, it’s probably possible to simply re-route the connections. I could take a look in my SE for you later if that’s the case.


#13

Totally off topic, but I love that the promoted video on the page is for male breast reduction.


#14

Ya the main board is damaged. Im thinking i could just add two 24mm buttons on the front of the stick and wire it up to the PS360.