Oh baby, time to put blue leds in everything. brb.
It was why the PS3 was my console of Choice, out of the box PS3 had wireless, a HDD and free online standard. All those are extra on the Xbox 360.
Other news, I got my stuff from akihabarashop. I been playing around with the LS-56-01. I might start to prefer this over the the Sanwa JLF.
I tried to put the Ascii shaft from my HSS-0136 in my LS-56. I had to use the Ascii pivot and actuator for the e-clip to go on. Although the Ascii shaft by it self could fit one of the LS-56 parts on its own. It was a terrible, the Modded LS-56 was not responsive and only very deliberate movements was picked up, changing the LS-56 back to stock corrected everything. Reason I tried to put the Ascii shaft in the LS-56 was that the LS-56’s stick was higher than the Ascii stick.
I guess I have to use spacers to mount the LS-56 closer to the correct height.
I will post comparison pics later
I was looking at two red Sanwa balltops that I have and their colors seems way different. One is a deep Red and the other is a more Orange-ish red. Is there that much variance in one batch to another or is one of them like a vermillion balltop?
Edit: after doing some google-ing I think that’s exactly what I have.
I got into modding because I wanted something only I could be comfortable playing. Since I have Duchenne’s MD, my hands are very weak. So I need my sticks super duper sensitive to the point that I use modded Zippy microswitches to get rid of any play and a single LS-33 with a PA hallow titanium shaft (for weight reduction and not the wires) with a heavy Steel ball or aluminum Toggleme bat (depending on if I play shoto or charge) to use a bit of force to my advantage with one of Toodle’s circular restricting plates/gates. Sticks are my main nitch. I love making them float in place. I have yet to mess around with a flash. Someday…
So I basically had to teach myself how to mod so I could play the way I wanted to. Once you buy all the tools (if you want to build your own stick) then you have everything you need if you ever wanted to mod anything else or help a friend out. I don’t speak out all that much but I do read quite a bit to see whatcha’ guys are up to. I just wanted to say that once you pay for everything you need to build a stick, you’re pretty much all set. Knowledge and experience then become the only thing you accumulate. That and a bunch of supplies and parts to change art or whatever.
I’m particularly really picky with my wire strippers and microswitches being smooth and quiet. My strippers (not the ones at the bar) have to be accurate because I don’t have the strength to accurately make a clean cut to expose the thread. I love to solder and enjoy the whole superglue/wire art thing (thank you for inspiring me, JDM). Mastering a new PCB is just hard to resist. I just like finding new things to make a good arcade stick perform better and better. Practicing different fighting techniques based on what you’ve done to your weapon is kind of like a spiritual ritual between man, machine and skill. I just got the modding bug in my blood. I don’t care if I’m bound to a wheelchair. I always find a way to have fun doing what I love and don’t let it stop me. Modding. Sorry if I’ve blabbed too much. I saw an interesting subject and had to respond. lol!
Andy we got a couple of problems here.
A toodles circular gate is made for the Sanwa JLF not the Seimtsu LS-33.
Paradise Arcade only carry hallow titanium shafts for the LS-32 and the JLF, not the LS-33. The Weight reduction you get is minimum at best.
The LS-33 is already the lightest joystick you can find. Only joystick that is lighter are the joystick found in Neo Geo AES arcade stick Controllers or the Innovation Dreamcast stick Both joysticks are discontinued, but you might beable to find them online resellers like eBay or Amazon. Work Log: Dreamcast Innovation Arcade Stick Repair and Mod
Metal ball top/ bat top is ill-advise with stock springs, with a heavier top you need a stiffer spring which will last longer, unfortunately you need a lighter spring not a stiffer one.
If you have any actual questions with your joystick build please direct them to the appropriate thread.
Check the Stickies, Most useful threads have links in theIntro and Rules thread
Additional questions can be asked here Absolute Question and Answer Thread (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)
Anyways Welcome to SRK. I am glad to hear you are willing to overcome your physical disabilities with a positive additive and a willingness to learn about tech and the skills it requires. I wish you good luck on your modding endeavors
I’m sorry. I’m talking about the LS-33 spring. lol!
Let me explain further. I think there are some things you didn’t understand. I’ll try to be more clear. Duchenne’s muscular Dystrophy is a muscular disease that deteriorates your muscles. I can barely move my hands. So adding a lot of weight at the top of the stick (not the bottom) causes a gyroscopic effect, therefore causing me to take advantage of the centrifical force of the added weight in the metal balls and bats. The reason I don’t use a stiffer spring is because I want it to be really, really sensitive. So sensitive that it doesn’t return to the neutral position right away. I’m a perma-grabber. So my hand never leaves my stick.
I’m sorry I didn’t make it clear I meant an LS-33 SPRING. Not the STICK. Haha! There’s no way you’d get a circle gate on an actual Seimitsu LS-33 stick. I hope I didn’t cause a bunch of confusion or confuse anybody. I said I had Duchenne’s MD for a reason so people would understand I’m not a normal player. My muscles are very weak.
Oh yeah! I am using the JLF hollow titanium shaft. Just an LS-33 spring. Not the stick. I know the titanium might not seem like a lot of weight to take off. But trust me. When you can barely move your hands, and you play at a high level, you can definitely tell the difference. I can play with a regular JLF stock. Even with the Square gate. I can just play better with the setup I play with. Once again. I apologize for the miscommunication.
Your thinking of using a LS-33 spring in a JLF? …
A stock JLF requires about 185 g of force while a stock ls-33 requires about 160 g of force.
So yes it has a lighter spring
The LS-33 also have a shorter throw and can use the octagonal LS-56 restrictor plate
[S]I also recommend cherry switches if you want a softer switch, as Zippy isn’t known for quality.[/S]
Scratch that I forgot that Zippy makes the one of the few 20 gram micro switches
He has no questions.
First paragraph is his current Joystick setup.
Hence the key words
Wasn’t trashing him on questions, just that I was not following how is actual joystick set up was.
I understood a toodles round gate on a LS-33 with a Paradise arcade hallow shaft and a heavy ball top/ bat top.
Apparently He only meant the LS-33 spring.
I am thinking you can save alot of cost and time modding by skipping the JLF all together and going for the LS-33, assuming the JLF is his stick of choice.
You’re not the boss of him. Andy speak your mind bro. Fight the power!
And I spoke my mind
Right! The 20mg microswitches. It’s not a joke. And I’m not thinking of putting an LS-33 spring in a JLF. I’ve already done it and have for a while now. I seriously do use an LS-33 spring with a Toggleme aluminum bat in my JLF. Is this something unheard of? I’ve never heard of it mentioned in this forum but I can show a video of how I play if you think people would be interested. Maybe it could allow more advice for me or for others who can’t move their hands well? I’m really glad to hear there were more sensitive sticks than the LS-33 stick. I wonder if those springs would work in my JLF. I haven’t found anything to use in place of a spring to actually make my JLF springless but haven’t ever found anything. I have an LS-33 Stick but I didn’t like the way the levers made it handle. I can even show the way I modded my JLF to use the LS-33 spring and how I put tape on the actual plungers of the Zippy 20mg microswitches to get rid of the play so there won’t be problems down the line. I can do it tomorrow. I don’t really do anything else. I can’t get out much from being bound to my home in my motorized wheelchair. I have to sleep now. I’m very tired. If you’re interested in seeing how it’s possible to use such a loose setup, I’d be glad to demonstrate.
Have a good night!
Shouldn’t an aluminium bat top be lighter?
I never tried one, but solid aluminum doesn’t sound like it could be lighter than plastic with a brass insert. Anyway, I might be wrong. :razzy:
I wonder how lighter/responsive this LS-33 + heavier (assuming it is so) aluminum bat top setup is. Hmmmm…
Just came back from an out of town convention for work. Hell’a tired, but having to lock a thread has brought my spirits up.
I was worried a lighter spring with a heavy top would just wear out the spring too fast. But I have been proven wrong before. Still I like to see what your end product looks like, photos are awesome, video is a bonus but I don’t want you to think i am forcing you to make video.
I do see your logic of using a hallow titanium shaft, titanium is lighter than iron/steel and being hallow makes it lighter still.
Is this setup going into a custom stick or a modded retail/ store bough stick?
Do we have anyone that has/used a toggleme aluminium bat top to confirm the weight of the thing? Although Aluminum is a light metal I understood the are still heaver than ether Sanwa or Seimtsu 35mm ball tops. For maximum weight the Sanwa 45 mm ball tops are quite heavy and needs a bat top adapter to fit on normal joysticks.
I use the LS-33 springs with stock JLF springs all the time to adjust tension… Cut them in half and use them with stock spring it makes for a tighter feel…cutting the length of the 33 spring adjusts the tension when used with the stock spring…great for adjustments with the optical boards toodles sells for the jlf…and aluminum ball/bat tops are heavier than the standard…takes some getting used too…
I’m really, really starting to like my optical JLF. First time out I though tit was much too loose. Never underestimate the tension those microswitches give. I may try a LS-56 spring in there, but not much more. I could play around with R/C shock springs, but the feel isn’t that far off. Any tighter and you start to get into diminishing returns. Adding springs to try and make a JLF feel like, say, a JLW, or a JLW feel like a Happ just doesn’t work in the end.
I think the deal with a bat top isn’t so much the weight but the additional leverage you have verses a ball top. That would make a spring feel different as well. One of the reasons I didn’t use my aluminum bat top on El Guapo. The stock JLW string didn’t seem stiff enough, and the replacement spring just didn’t work too well.