Best Ultimate Tech Talk Hang Out Loud Edition Season V


To quote rtdzign:

“Seimitsu is only for manly men who have too much power in their button presses. Men who use Seimitsu tend to be the men that open jars for the girlie Sanwa men. Real men like us also like to crack open pistachios that have no crack in them with only two fingers.”



So Mad Catz hates me. On my MvC2 TE the Seimitsu Joystick mounting bracket doesn’t have the hole drilled like my SE. YAY


Seimitsus are for drunks with shaky hands without the wherewithal to avoid pressing buttons they didn’t mean to press, but who are too girly to step up to manly Happ buttons.


Happ buttons aren’t manly, they are for cheap bastards, what do you expect from microswitched buttons. The whole debate between Sanwa’s sensitive SW-68 switch versus Seimitsu’s switches is retarded. TBH, I love both and I would prefer them any day over microswitched buttons. Momentary contact buttons ftw.


So I bought an NES Max Controller at swap meet for $5 yesterday.

I clean it today.
Took it apart.

Placed into nail polish remover.
And now the plastic eaten. :sad:

I’m so sad.

I can use the Cable for Multi-Console Cthulhu.
And the PCB for Turbo B and Turbo B.
But that is all.


Poor jdm. I would send you one if I had it. What was the nail polish remover supposed to do? Clean it?


Oh man jdm714, that’s awful! I recommend you try getting yourself a bottle of Goo Gone to get rid of any grime you might need to remove. One 8 fluid ounce bottle lasts a LONG time, I’m telling ya! I’ve used that stuff to remove even the toughest adhesives. Once, i used it to remove super glue I accidentally spilled on one of my Sanwa buttons!


Acetone is active ingredient in nail polish remover.
It is a solvent to certain plastics like polystytrene you know.
That is why can dissolve stryofoam cups and packing peanuts.

I couldn’t find any alcohol, so I went for acetone.

I wanted to clean off the yucky.

I put some nail polish remover on cotton swab, then wipe on controller.
It is funny because where the liquid touched plastic, it turned lighter.

Then I placed all parts into small container of acetone!

I saw the the liquid turned slight color.
Thought it was dirt at first.

Then I saw yellow color where the red buttons were.
Then I see that the buttons were dissolving.

I have a small bottle of that somewhere.


how does putting LEDs in a button sacrifice performance?


So my gaming PC has been out of service for some time, due to a bad motherboard. Well, I finally upgraded, but when it came in it was bad too.

So I had a bunch of parts all over my table, testing out different configurations to troubleshoot. For giggles I hooked up the board that wasn’t working. While looking up the beep code to see if it was complaining about the same thing that the “new” bad board did (power issues) I found a section in the manual that mentioned 3-pin and 4-pin CPU fan configurations, and noticed the jumper was set to 4-pin. I figured what the hell, and switched it to 3-pin. Computer booted up with no problems.

… so yeah, my busted computer actually works – I just had one jumped pin in the wrong place. Go figure.

(and yes, I’m returning the new board, as it really is broken)


I’m thinking there should be a thread guide on general troubleshooting of sticks or at least a read-this-thread-before-asking-a-question thread about sticks malfunctioning.


That is random. Random and stupid. What manufacturer was your mobo from?


Hey now. Some people like the tactile ‘clicky’ feel of a mircoswitched happ button. One of the main reasons I didn’t bother with getting a stick before is that there weren’t many good options for a happ based stick. Considering the cost of making the stick, I wouldn’t exactly call myself a cheap bastard. To each his own though.

I have toyed with the idea of using a JLW and some OBS-30B buttons for the closest thing I could get to a happ stick using all sanwa parts. But I’m not even sure the total outlay would be worth it (or what colors I could work out). I need to see what the depth of those buttons are to see what case they could fit.

As for lights, I don’t see how they degrade performance at all. It’s just more a ‘wow, look what I can do’ thing more than anything. I’m wiring up a switch to cut the lights of if I chose.


You’re right, it’s really random. It’s an ASUS.

Strangest thing, though… I’d never have thought that’s what it was in a million years, especially since it did work at one time. I just turned it off one day and it stopped working. Two years later, it suddenly does. Oh well.


The amount of money I’ve wee’d down the drain fixing issues like this with my pc’s over the years, is shocking. Partly the reason that I don’t game on the PC any more.

Re Buttons: I find myself flicking between sanwa’s and Seimitsu clears. Sometimes I want that sanwa feel and sometimes I want the reassuring and solid ‘SNAP’ of hitting a seimitsu. I don’t think I would cook my beans in either camp indefinately.


Just picked up a HRAP 3 today for use a project box. Now for some paint/dye, buttons and plexi. In a week or so my mini Versus City should be complete.


Which buttons do i buy to put images on the inside of them, are they the

Seimitsu PS-14-KN 30mm Pushbutton

also what is the URL for shinjin’s mod-ing tutorial.


I picked up the 2 slot Neo-Geo cab I’ve been trying to get for the last few weeks. The monitor was out so I ended up ghettofying it with a humble 21 inch SDTV. It makes it easier for console use since my broke ass can’t afford a $300 replacement monitor. :rofl:


Man I’d kill for that. Love the MVS style


nice american mvs cab kyle. They are incredibly cheap at this one vender in PDX. I’m thinking about picking one up in a couple months and turning it into a… MAME CABINET[COLOR=Black].

nah just kidding :rofl:

btw, does anybody have the file for “Seimitsu inside” graphic?