Best Ultimate Tech Talk Hang Out Loud Edition Season V

Thanks! I was just actually reading through those. They seem legit, and have some rare things I want, not to mention FedEX shipping.

Looks like they are legit, but I use them as last result as their prices can get ridiculous.

You can also throw kunai in the direction of your movement. Using the RS simply focuses the camera in that direction.

New people in the forums are alot like a horse.

You can lead a horse to water but you can’t make them drink.
I pretty much explain to this one guy how the Info thread works and how to search the forums.

I even posted Kyle’s hint on searching via Google

Then I told him what to exactly time to find his results and he said he found NOTHING.

You make the effort to learn and I return that effort, you want to be lead by the hand and your SOL and on your own.
I am like GOD, I help those who are willing to help themselves.

VLX owners: Do you ever use the stabilizer board? Searched around the net and didn’t see many cases where people were even talking about it.

Bonus question - I’m curious which version has stood the test of time; OG Red or Diamond. And by that I mean either structurally and color preference?

try here

PS ive been meaning to get back to you aboutmy vlx sale… will msg you soon

So I just bought a sealed PS3 VLX for $275 shipped off ebay…hope it actually shows up.

Damn…good deal.

I knew it! You all doubted me when I said Dark was God! Proof!

No, Lukas just has a bit of an ego that folks like me and Ed need to knock down every now and then.

So after all the stuff I’ve written, I’ve finally gotten someone to quote me to promote their product.

Yep, it’s my good pals at XSplit.

Now if only some arcade stick companies would do the same thing as well. I recall adding some flowery prose in the review of a certain “Korean Edition” stick a few months back.

Does anyone here have experience implementing HID protocol on hardware? I’m trying to interface a bluetooth module with my laptop so I can make my own bluetooth game controller, but as I’m writing the drivers, I’m having a couple questions about the command order.

I already have the joystick connecting over bluetooth and sending data serially to the operating system, I’m just confused about how I’m supposed to encode button presses and their clear signals.

You’ll want Bluetooth HID for that. To my knowledge, it’s basically the same as USB HID with some extras for telling the bluetooth radio what to do.You also have to have a compatible module, like the RN-42 HID or the Adafruit Bluefruit (doesn’t send joystick packets but you can make do).

RN-42 HID: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10823
Sixaxis command spec (for reference): https://web.archive.org/web/20120126123934/http://wiki.ps2dev.org/ps3:hardware:sixaxis

Wait, are you using a serial BT modem to transmit, and then adapting the signal from a serial stream to a virtual HID device? Or are you actually using a different bluetooth profile with a radio that supports such? If the former, you may actually be able to re-use someone’s solution from when people were using Arduinos to build serial-based virtual-HID controllers (before Arduino got an actual USB chip on-board).

On a unrelated note, I going back to a Phat PS2, and man the Swap Magic Flip Top cases are a major PAIN-IN-THE-ASS to Find.
I keep running into shaddy sites or the PS2 Slim replacement shells.

I also going to do the HD Loader softmod, the Fliptop is for PS1 imports which the HD Loader can not take account for.

Please don’t use HD Loader, it’s rather outdated. Use Open PS2 Loader, it is open source, has better game compatibility, and supports USB, SMB fileshares(networked storage), and Internal HDDs. No other loader does.

Why not use a slide-tool? You can Cogswap PS1 games, so the disc won’t be spinning when you do the switch, and a permanent slide-tool seems far easier to locate than a flip top. Of course, this is tech talk, so you could also make your own flip-top or equivalent. I like this option, it sounds fun.
Personally, I have a slim, and I don’t need to swap enough to justify doing anything, but if I did, I’d just add a switch that when flipped, says the lid is closed.

I tried the slide tool once, I have a burning hatred of the cogswap. What a easy way to ruin your PS2.
Too much hassle, a flip top once installed has zero hassle and it allows easy access to the DVD drive even when the power is off.

I ended up finding a flip top, from the manufacturer of all places.

I’m using the BlueSmirf HID, which is based on the RN-42 HID. I actually got my code working about an hour after I posted on here, at least, I got the button press/release portion working. Another hour of coding got me a much much cleaner solution. Originally, I wasn’t able to have simultaneous button presses, but I figured that out, and then I was able to add reliable debouncing.

I’m specifically using the Keyboard designations instead of gamepad/joystick, as I’m going to try and adapt the control for motion impaired/disabled use. I figured with keyboard designation, I could map W,A,S,D to a joystick (which I did) and then someone would be able to control either emulated games, or more modern games using a joystick and button combination. Because the raw HID reports can act as mouse/keyboard hybrids, I was thinking I could use some OBSF-30s or some other pushbutton to control cartesian mouse co-ordinates and left/right click plus keyboard keys. That way someone could probably control keyboard/mouse with something resembling an Astro City setup.

Now that I have the control working, next step is to find a form factor that is comfortably wearable; move my bluetooth module and wiring from an Arduino Uno to a smaller micro controller platform (Arduino Pro Mini, or ATTiny); and then prototype a few housings that can store/protect the controller. Ultimately, my goal was to have something for Mac/PC/iOS/Android that is HID compliant, and easy to get parts and assemble. I even found iCade’s developer notes, so I could write a profile that makes this compatible with any iOS app that iCade is compatible with. Fun! Right?

Neat stuff Spanky. If you’re using the keyboard exclusively, you might want to use the Bluefruit (http://www.adafruit.com/products/1535) in later builds, it’s around $30 cheaper and you can use it without a microcontroller for up to 12 keys (although I don’t think you can use it standalone to mimic an iCade). Also check out http://thecontrollerproject.com/ , there’s a pretty decent forum and repo of techniques for building accessible controllers.

Thanks for the advice! The Controller Project was actually the place that inspired this build. I got interested after seeing Thomas’s controller on Kotaku and Hackaday. http://hackaday.com/2013/06/20/building-custom-game-controllers-for-people-with-physical-disabilities/

The iCade, if I’m reading their documentation correctly, actually uses keyboard HID reports to manage button press/release states. I realized last night that the only difference between the code I have right now and the iCade code, is that I pass 0x00 when a button isn’t pressed, but the iCade expects me to pass one char when a button is pressed, and then a different char when the same button is released.