Best Ultimate Tech Talk Hang Out Loud Edition Season V


Hello all

I have a quick question about diodes if you don’t mind. I am currently modding a hori mini wired gaming pad and all is going well. Ps4 works just fine but in xbox mode it isn’t recognized and all buttons are held so from what I have already gathered I am gonna need diodes.

I currently have my setup wired as such

Buttons wired to front of ps4 pad then on the back side of the ps4 pad i have wires going to the xbox one pad

Can I simply wire the diodes in like this

Buttons to diode then diode to front of the ps4 pad and then back of the ps4 pad wired to xbox one pad

Or do I have to wire them as I am currently assuming which is having the ps4 pad last so

Buttons to front of xbox pad and from back of the xbox wire to diodes to ps4 pad.

Hopefully this makes sense. Thanks for any help.

EDIT: found my answer


So, in the time since my last post; I was offered two jobs. One locally working collections for a small agency; and the other is the government contract (preliminary background check came back clean), I took the government contract one because it pays more as a base; and I get government benefits on top of it. However; I don’t start until the 26th and I’m working days 7am - 4pm during training (night shift training was until 2am; starting at 5pm but my wife works until 8pm Mon-Thurs and 6pm Fridays). Gonna get bodied every day by getting up at 4:30am and going to bed at 6pm. Whether or not I get the job permanently is gonna depend on the results on the e-QIP check the govt has to do to clear me in order to do my job. So, for the next 30 days at least starting the 26th; I do have a job.

I also have an appointment on Tuesday to look at a potential residence to move into.


Took the pad apart and gave it a thorough cleaning, Star button works better and everything more responsive. But the D-pad is still god awful, not Xbox 360 d-pad awful but its not good for quarter circles.


work stuff is getting real. I went and did my drug test today; and next week I go to have my PIV made to start on the 26th. I have decided for now to commute from my mom’s house to work until the e-QIP comes back and I get cleared or turned down based on stuff. Once/If it clears; I’ll move closer to work; but for now I’m gonna do my thing and have fun with this job while I have it.


I was disappointed that street fighter 30th anniversary was not being released on ps3, not like it’s a hardware intensive game.
Having to buy a next gen console for 20 year old games is taking the piss.

But after upgrading my ps3 hdd to 1TB and downloading everything in my download list, I notice that I have PSOne Classic versions of SFA 1, 2, and 3. As well as PSOne Classic versions of SF 2, SF 2 CE and SF 2 HF.
So together with the PSN HD remix and 3rd Strike on my PS3 I have already got majority of the collection.

I’m just missing SF1, SSF2, the first two SF3 iterations and online function in Alpha and Hyper Fighting.

Looks like im still not going next gen.


My bunny chewed my stick’s cable. Gonna have to repair it now. Lucky I had a spare.

Already so busy…fml.


@anzhar the game will be on Steam. No need for next gen.


I’m gonna start the process of upgrading my tech toolkit probably in the next month or so after the stuff clears. I’ve been using two separate USB thumbdrives for Windows and important programs and all that. Looks like a trip into Dallas to Micro Center is in my future; because each of those thumbdrives is 16gb; and I was thinking of getting either a 128gb drive or going for broke and getting either a 256gb or 512gb thumbdrive and loading stuff like DBAN, a universal Windows install image (with updated drivers and copies of Arcade Edition/Tekken 7 already installed), and the programs/games.



So back in 2011 when I started building Japanese-style sticks (with my Sylvia- and Neptune-sticks), I went to a local plastics factory and bought a large sheet (4’ x 8’) of 1/16" plexiglass.
I finally ran out of that sheet a few months ago, so yesterday, I went out to the same plastics factory to buy some more, and got another sheet of the same size.

Unfortunately, I realized today after starting to work on it that the previous sheet I got in 2011 was polycarbonate/Lexan, while the sheet I got yesterday was acrylic (I simply asked for “plexiglass” both times).
I got used to the flexibility of polycarbonate, and still trying to figure out how to do the same work in acrylic, since their physical properties are obviously very different…



Online play is the biggest draw for me, honestly. I still have my copy of SFA:A, which I love (and is one reason I’m still thinking about getting a BC PS3 for cheap one day). Would probably rather of had a HD version of an Alpha game, but the collection works fine.


So I decided to make a bracket out of ABS to mount on the VESA mounts on the back of my BenQ RL2455HM to put in the standard Japanese 10"x7.75" instructions marquee.
No fancy 3D-printer for me, so this is all hand-cut and hand-assembled out of ABS sheets.

The bracket from the back:

What you can see from the front:

Made a DBFZ instructions marquee to go with it, with the basic game mechanics/inputs.
I don’t actually have DBFZ running off of this screen at any point, but anyhow. :slight_smile:


Just got around to putting a Power LED into my PC Duo.
I mounted the LED the frosted window the CD drive activity light is also located.

I made the Power LED Red, and swap out the CD Light got swapped out for Blue, otherwise the two LEDs would blend together.

I felt the Blue LED was too bright, so I added a 75 ohm resistor to lower the brightness.
The RED Power LED has a 470 ohm resistor and takes power from one of two 7805A voltage regulators.
In hindsight 470 ohms was too much resistance for the Red LED as the Blue LED still overpowers slightly

Also, Why Blue LEDs are so fricking bright compared to Red?


Annnd I’m officialy a home owner. <3


Congrats! Enjoy it before the property tax and mortgage bills start sinking in :wink:


Oh here the pics to the mod I mentioned

Here the inside of my PC Duo

I had accidentally pulled the solder pads for the CD activity LED.
I had the Replacement LED leads a lit long on purpose to preposition the Light, and moving the LED caused the pads to lift. Hence you see the repairs made with kynar wire to reroute the LED.

Here is the Power LED in action

The Red gets washed up more in Photos than in person, but here is the Blue CD drive indicator light in action.


That looks badass. Nice job!


Hell yeah! But my monthy mortage bill will be lower than my current rent. :wink:


Dude calls it “a 4-way joystick” because it has a square restrictor gate… :

What makes it worse is that even when corrected, he contends that I’m not correct.

What amazes me is that with all of the arcade-focused stuff he’s posted, he hasn’t read Slagcoin.
Sadly, this kind of silly ignorance is rife within the retro-gaming community. Hopefully ETA PRIME digests Slagcoin’s information.


Looking at the guy’s channel, he not what I call a core retro gamer at all.
Lot of Retro Pi and Emulation stuff, thats all surface/beginner level stuff.


I have been having some issues with my PC recently; frequent BSODs for no reason. I traced the BSOD source back to an update Microsoft pushed out for windows when Spectre/Meltdown were first identified; then pulled because it crashed AMD systems. Looks like it was doing that to me; so I’m currently reinstalling Windows on my slow-ass tether; downloading all of my programs and everything. Once the programs get installed and updated; then I’m gonna patch Windows again and hope I don’t start having issues again with BSODs. Luckily, my games drive survived; so I shouldn’t really have to do anything except re-verify my games and all that.

On the job front, I went to have my PIV card made yesterday; I get that Monday morning when I arrive for training. Also found a “new” comic book store (used to live an hour from their other store) 15 minutes from work and proceeded to drop $50 on comics on top of the almost $45 I spent yesterday finding the Frank Miller Dark Knight trades at Barnes & Noble.