Best Ultimate Tech Talk Hang Out Loud Edition season VI, it still burns


I really need to do this.


@FreedomGundam I’m really curious how it’s going to turn out, because I’ve read so much stuff and its opposite on the Retr0bright that I don’t get it.
From the original website, it’s say that you need a specific wavelength which is hard to get with artifical lights. The closest one should be the lights for reptile vivarium. However, some people says it’s working with a standard UV lights, but from what I understand it’s more bleaching rather than actually revert the bromine chemical reaction.

From 8-bit Guy, heat is making a better reaction than the UVlight itself.
Here’s some guys who tested that with succes:


Interesting. I’ve never heard of anyone saying that “heat” is a better activator than UV light.

I’ve caught a few Youtube videos (primarily on computer parts/casing restoration) where they use hydrogen peroxide cream and a UV lamp.
I also come from a toy-collecting community (mainly Transformers), and many vintage toy collectors swear by using hydrogen peroxide and UV light as well (see this forum thread done up by a friend of mine).


If I remember from watching a slew of 8-Bit Guy’s videos, it ends up being a combination of UV and heat (which makes sense why he leaves his retrobrite parts outside either plastic wrapped with the HP cream or in a tub of HP outside in the sun). I’m sure a UV light and time will do the trick, but I"m sure the warmer temps help quite a bit.


While I don’t really buy retail sticks much anymore, putting in a reminder for myself here to keep these three on my “be on the lookout for”:

  • HSS-0130 (I love me my Sega CPs)
  • VSHG (one of the classiest retail sticks that you can buy)
  • Dreamcast Agetec (saw one recently at a local gaming show; didn’t think to pick it up then)


been busy with various things. PAX South was awesome, and I came back with a decent haul of tech (no Virtua Stick sadly), which included a Sceptre C27 144hz Monitor (which does overclock to 165hz very easily) and a pair of Lucidsound wireless headphones.

I’m also taking a break from playing fighting games at the moment and have put my travel plans to EVO on hold barring what happens with my wife and her job. Her employers are being total shitstains about something they already knew about before they hired her, and it’s taken everything I’ve had not to call in my favors with her company’s upper management.

In conclusion, here are a few pics from my PAX South trip.


ASCII love for my game room.


unzips pants


Nendo getting all the Cool stuff


Finally re-assembled my yellowed Dreamcast controller and VMU.
For reference, this is what they looked like before:

This is what they look like now:

Had them coated in a 30 volume hydrogen peroxide cream and plastic saran wrap, and had them under my el-cheapo UV floodlight for about 24 hours.


Nicely done.
Cant tell that anything been done, which is the best kind of restore.


Link to which flood light you used? I need to do this to my dreamcast.


I got this one off of (I’m sure the selection is better on other Amazon regions):

I got the smaller 10W one at $32CAD.


This arrived today.

Dan Henry 1964 Gran Turismo chronograph. Uses a Seiko meca-quartz movement. While it still uses a battery, the chronograph is mechanical so hitting the pushers gives a nice click.

Gawd I do love pushing clicky things, both on my keyboard and my watches.


I’ll be re-having the conversation with my wife tonight about attending either Evo or Combo Breaker if I can get off work for either one.

The company that does her employer’s annual background checks basically said “lol we fucked up” and her employer agreed and let her return to work today. I’ve also been going through a rough patch where I’ve not really wanted to go to work and have been battling depression.


Look for me whichever one you end up going to. I should be at both.


@d3v, I’m not liking you right now. Congrats on the watch; very lovely piece.


Posting this here as it fits nowhere else.

Broke an alarm clock.

Here it is after I gut it for it’s parts. The shell cracked right in half.

So I shoved all screen, pcb and transformer into a project box. Got a left over arcade button to to replace the snooze button and some 12mm push buttons as the other controls.


How hard did you smash the original snooze button to destroy it like that?..


I actually dropped it, its old and the case shattered