You know what I hate the most? When I don’t have money for stuff that I need for projects. Finding out you need more parts is fine if you can afford it. When it goes out of budget however…
The exchange rate isn’t great between USD-CAD or JPY-CAD at the moment, so that’s additional cost on my end as well.
I need extra pushbuttons and stuff for my current project, but instead of ordering them online, I’m going to be in Tokyo in about 3-ish weeks, so I’ll just pick them up in-person; I’m assuming they’ll be cheaper than at US-based online retailers, and I’d at least be saving on shipping costs…
Forget about exchange rates. I’m technically broke since I’m in between writing gig and stuck sending out applications.
Now imagine you have the money, the idea, but NOT THE FREAKING TIME. I have tons of project on my shelve, but 0 time to do them. I could do one project per month at best, and at the same time 5 mores are added to the pile. HDMI for N64, DreamCast, Wii, Gamecube, Repair+TV-Out for Virtual Boy, McWill screen for GameGear, etc. You name it.
I bought my house last year, still have some stuff packed.
Good lord thank you I don’t have kids, I understand now why my friends are all aging faster than me.
Totally hear ya.
On top of stick/gaming/arcade mods that I do and share on this forum, I’m also a big Gundam-builder as well. Who has time for all that? Definitely not me!
2018 was not a good year for projects; only got 2 Gundam kits completed (both only High Grade kits, and they weren’t even kits that I bought intentionally; they were in a big lot of assorted used Gundams and I had some custom ideas) and only 1 arcade stick modded. I’ve already planned out the projects that I want to complete for 2019, and so far I’m more or less on track. Gotta keep it that way.
I still have the Gundam Front exclusive Real Grade Unicorn sitting unbuilt on my shelf.
Your cabinets are cool! Were did you get them?
They’re modded Ikea Detolfs.
Detolfs in their stock form are too narrow normally to fit in too much wider items, so I made my own tops/bottoms to double up their width and added legs to make them taller. I have custom lighting in there too.
Here’s a pic of the my full set of the three of them from 2018/08/18. Filled with my non-gaming collection stuff. There’s definitely been a bit of addition/rearranging since then.
placed my order earlier for the Brook EZ Mod for my Obsidian, 8 of the new Crown buttons and placed a separate order for my artwork and plexi from Focus Attack along with some e-clips for my Crown 309. Next to order is a new tensioner from Arcade Stick Indonesia along with some Omron switches.
looks like I found out the reason for my recent problems that I was planning on posting about. My Obsidian’s USB cord is frayed and needs to be replaced, since it is disconnecting during SFV matches online. Gonna place a order next week for two or three, so I’ll be set for the next couple of years. Bad thing is that this is gonna push my EZ Mod upgrade back a few days, possibly another week.
Thats why I regard most stock USB cables as cheap crap and install a USB Pass-though of some sort
Something I can readily replace at a moments notice. Full sized USB B is the best choice, as rugged USB Printer cords are found almost anywhere. But Jasen’s Pro cables aren’t bad ether, just bring spares.
I’ve got some electrical tape to hold over until Wednesday, when I can order the replacement cords. That should allow me to flash the UFB without any problems.
Welp. Looks like my second (and last) Paewang from 2011 is pretty dead.
It was acting up last August 2018 when it suddenly stopped working in my arcade cabinet when I had some family over. Didn’t have time to troubleshoot, so I just left it there.
I tested it again in November 2018 and it was still not working. Again, didn’t have time to troubleshoot, so still left it there.
Tested it again in January 2019 and it surprisingly worked. Had some friends over that week, and it was still working… at first… then it died about 30 minutes into playing some SF4.
Tried it again this morning; it semi-detects on my 360 in my cabinet (it’ll turn on the system, but the LED ring won’t register a controller, and nothing works in the console dashboard; tested the cabinet with another known working PCB (PS360+) and it was fine).
Plugged it into my PC to test: pretty much the same thing; Windows Device Manager detects the controller as an Xbox360 controller, but no inputs work. I can’t even switch to PS3 mode to see if that’ll work either.
Oh well, it’s had a good run. Now to try to scrounge another X360-compatible PCB.
Fucking pissed at USPS. My EZ Mod and buttons were supposed to be delivered today, but they fucked up and kept the shipment in Coppell for 5+ hours, only to turn around and send it to the distribution center in Shreveport.
Next time, I’m just having the stuff put in my PO Box, since it’s literally attached to the distribution center.
so, I spent about 5 hours doing my EZ Mod install and swapping out the art and buttons. Turns out Qanba makes fucking garbage USB cords, so you were right @Darksakul. I’m headed to Walmart tomorrow afternoon to pick up a USB-A printer cord and plugging that directly into the UFB board.
On a side note, the Crown SDB-202 buttons will fit in a Obsidian, but they are screw buttons; and the plastic rubs against the controller PCB in a spot or two. Otherwise, they’re fine and look really good.
It isnt just Qanba, Mad Catz and Hori makes some awful USB cables too.
Been kinda quiet on my front … But I apparently screwed up my EZMod install by stripping the screws that screw into the post, then apparently breaking the bottom board on the assembly .
Looks like I get to buy another EZMod kit in the next couple of days.
I was going to work on a 8Bitdo N30 Arcade Stick mod.
I am just going to settle for a nice button and joystick swap as I decided to keep the design ascetics as they are. No Top panel art swap.
I am looking to get rid of that dumb USB A out port. I want to swap it out for a USB B out so I can use more readily available cables
That’s a really weird design choice, to go with a USB-A port on the stick-side.