Blog about buliding sticks -


I’m currently blogging a work log about building a stick

Part 1: Building the case

Part 2: Primer the Case and button layout

Part 3: Painting, Countersinking, Assembling

Hope you like it,


What brand of corner clamps are those?

cool stick!
but yeah…from the distance of the stick from the edge…i guess your hands are pretty big lol

Its for another person, who specified these “extreme” measurements :slight_smile:

Yes, the measurement was a requirement. Though they’re very creative :wink:

The brand of the clamps is “Wolcraft”. They’re good helpers for getting the right angle.

I’m using MDF.

Stick looks good and sturdy.

Very nice. I dont know why but those buttons always look good on plexi without artwork applied. Case looks strong, does it move around at all?

Looking forward to seeing the finished product

Sure, people wondering about the big measures. But the case is very strong and doesn’t move at all. The MDF innerplate is 16mm (0.63 inch) thick, bottom plexi is black and has a thickness of 5mm and top panel plexi is 3mm.

Part 4: New assembling technique with countersinking screw nuts and threaded caps.

Little Preview:

Complete Blog

Nice arcade stick Bencao, I really like the work. The only thing I think would work out better would be to center the buttons and stick a bit more. But that’s just my take.

Also where do you get a circle cutter tool from? That looks like a very useful tool compared to an x-acto knife for this sort of stuff.

Thanks. :slight_smile:

Yes, the stick could be more in the middle, sure. This is/ was my opinion, too. Measurement was given by my client. He focused the positioning of the stick by the artwork. So the figure and logo supports the layout. However it’s more practicable when the stick is middle.

After failing to cut some real circles I’ve ordered this little helper on ebay

good buy

Very nice clean case!
But yeah, the controls being so far to the right is crazy…

Thanks Bencao. I ordered one of the cutting tools.

Buliding is one of my most favorite things to do on my spare time.

excellent blog and yes the stick is quite large

yeah, I’ve compared the size of this stick to the handling of the smaller ones.

This stick is boss size. Some people say at first sight they want nothing else: Matter of taste :wink:

Part 5: Pad Mounting, Wiring and Finish


Hello bencao, your work is pretty awesome… i’m very interested into make a dual mod for psx and xts but i have a microsfot xbox 360 gamepad with no common ground, and so i been looking through your blog and i feel very happy to see there exist a way to convert a “no cg” gamepad into a fully “cg” one, so i trying to figure out some things with that… can you help me a little?

Looking at your last stick made it, i see a picture showing the “cg mod” with the optocoppler, so basically i want to ask two things (i really hope you don’t bother with this).

1. Can you show me a picture of the other side of your “cg mod” (the breadboard)?
I want to be sure to do the things right

2. Can you tell me where i can buy in a online store some of the components to make this cg mod (i think in my country nobody sells the optocoppler that you show in your picture, i only saw resistors and breadboards here)?
Of course this question isnt only for bencao if anyone knows were i can buy online the optocopplers in a store with worldwide shipping (i live in Chile, S. America) i will be very glad, thanks for now…

Best regards for you bencao!


yeah, sorry for the posting delay. I’ve wrote a little tutorial about this in my blog. Check out it out.

Step 1: Soldier the pcb. Locate the GND and Signals of the directions with a multimeter. I’ve marked the GND Points with a pencil. Summarizing there’re 8 cables going from the PCB:

PCB 1 - Signal Up - White
PCB 2 - GND Up - Black
PCB 3 - Signal Down - Green
PCB 4 - GND Down - Blue
PCB 5 - Signal Left - Purple
PCB 6 - GND Left - Grey
PCB 7 - Signal Right - Orange
PCB 8 - GND Right - Yellow

Then on right hand side USB VSS and USB GND


Step 2: Assemble 4 resistors and optocoppler on breadbord

Pin 1 - 1K Ohm - USB VSS
Pin 3 - 1K Ohm - USB VSS
Pin 5 - 1 K Ohm - USB VSS
Pin 7 - 1 K Ohm - USB VSS

Pin 16- PCB 7 - Signal Right - Orange
Pin 15 - PCB 8 - GND Right - Yellow
Pin 14 - PCB 3 - Signal Down - Green
Pin 13 - PCB 4 - GND Down - Blue
Pin 12 - PCB 5 - Signal Left - Purple
Pin 11 - PCB 6 - GND Left - Grey
Pin 10 - PCB 1 - Signal Up - White
Pin 9 - PCB 2 - GND Up - Black

Pin 2 - Black - Right
Pin 4 - White - Down
Pin 6 - Grey - Left
Pin 8 - Purple - Up

Cables are then connected to luster terminal (right hand side)

Port 1 - Black - Right
Port 2 - White - Down
Port 3 - Grey - Left
Port 4 - Purple - Up
Port 5 - BLACK thick - USB GND

Use this connector for the Sanwa Stick Cable.

Try to read the schematic

Hope this helps

Higher Resolution

Wow, there it looks very simple to do it! i asume that it will work using more optocopplers to make cg for the button signals right??

My only problem still is where to find on Chile those optocopplers :S

I really apreciate your help bencao!