Bounty: Everlight PT958 (Was TI 01CJ4CK HC14)


#1

This bounty has changed, please read the whole thread!

Um…okay. I guess I need to give some background on this:

http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=125026

At some point, chippermonkey, and I imagine others have looked into fabbing an “upgrade” board for Sanwa JLF sticks to make them FLASH sticks. The problem is that the optical encoder seems to be scarce.

I’d like to place a bounty on this part. What we need is a reliable, repeatable source of this part that we can other make group buys on, or order in small quantities. The key word is reliable. Here’s the info I have on it off hand:

Texas Instruments 01CJ4CK HC14
http://focus-webapps.ti.com/general/docs/sitesearch/searchdevice.tsp?partNumber=hc14
http://eecue.com/images_archive/eecue-images-24157-Furby_Opto_encoder_TI_01CJ4CK_HC14.html

I’ll personally kick in $50 to this bounty, paid upon confirmation that we can actually get the optical encoder required to make Sanwa Flash upgrade boards.


#2

Good luck on this. It’ll be amazing if you manage to pull it off.


#3

If anyone else wants to kick in on this bounty please do. I think everyone would appreciate having a ready supply of FLASH upgrades.


#4

I’m on it. I won’t let a free $50+ pay check get away from me.


#5

Go for it man. :slight_smile: I’m going to add the requirement that chippermonkey et al can verify that we have the right part.


#6

Can you verify the part number? I know someone who regularly orders TI stuff and he hasn’t been able to find that part number. The HC14 portion yes but the preceeding numbers, no.


#7

Can you give some more information on what this part does and how the Flash stick works it would be helpful to me. Does it work like a Happ 49 way stick? I have some Midway 49 way sticks if that is any help.


#8

Read the first link in my first post. From what I understand, this is the optical encoder that detects light from an LED to determine movement vs. pressure on a microswitch, thus no clicking.


#9

in other words just like the 49 way sticks. I’ll look at one of my 49 way sticks at home tonight and see if I can shed some light on the optical encoders used on them. Maybe this will give us an optional part that we can use.

Here is an exploded view of the Midway 49-way stick…

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=81906;image


#10

I think that this may be what you are looking for, a Photointerrupter See fig 1 or 3 in the upper right corner of this DigiKey PDF file.

http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T072/P2087.pdf

Or are you looking for the IC that inturpruts the signal from these?


#11

We need to get chippermonkey’s attention on this thread. I’ll edit the title.


#12

Actually, if someone with a FLASH could confirm the part number, that might help too. It appears that Chippermonkey wasn’t 100% certain that this was even the correct HC14 chip.


#13

i think chipper is in china or something. not sure if he is back yet.


#14

Numbski, maybe you were around for my flash thread, but ya shoulda talked to me, man.

Because I’ll be happy to snap that $50 up.
Digikey part number :296-1577-5-ND
51 cents a pop. That’s the DIP version, if you want the surface mount version like the original, I can get that, too:
SOIC: Digikey: 296-1194-5-ND
TSSOP: 296-8234-1-ND

You know my Paypal. :slight_smile:

Now when you get to finally identifying the receivers or transmitters pieces, make another bounty, cuz Im hungry. :slight_smile:
Damn, I think I already told Chipper the part numbers, if not, its prolly in my thread.


#15

Nice. :slight_smile:

I didn’t see the thread. So…what’s the story then? We know all of the parts, we just need someone to fab the boards?


#16

Now, just to be a good sport, Ialso opened up my flash and got a nice picture of the chip for you:
http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/3387/dsc02788jpgwebko5.th.jpg
I dont know how much can be made out, but the lettering on the chip is:
5CC622K
AC14

The datasheet for TI’s line of AC14 chips can be found here:
http://focus.ti.com/docs/prod/folders/print/sn74ac14.html

I even whipped out the digital calipurs to be 100% certain which of the packages was being used on the chip, and its the plastic small outline package on page 15 of the datasheet, or at least so the 8.76mm length of the package tells me.
I believe that is SSOP, which makes the digkey part number: 296-4299-1-ND

Hmm, not so much. Its much simpler than that. Each direction has a transmitter IR LED, and a two prong IR phototransistor (or is it a photodiode? I dont recall, but it acts the same: the two prongs of the sensor allow current to pass if its getting light.)

The leg connected to one of the input gates on that chip is also tied low with a pull down resistor (before you ask, its a 4.7k ohm resistor on the original :slight_smile: and the other leg is connected directly to power.

If there is no light on the sensor, then current cant flow, and the voltage on the input of the gate remains low. If there is light, then the current can flow, and the voltage on the input put increases.

The physical placement of the sensors is so that the actuator, in neutral, blocks all four light source. Moving a stick one direction un-breaks the light on the opposite side.

The chip has two main properties:

  1. It inverts the high or low coming from the input.
  2. It uses a ‘shmitt trigger’. This helps protect against random fluctuations; the gate won’t go low until its below a very low amount, and wont go high until its above a very high amount. If the voltage from the input was wishy washy and around the middle, the output would seem random.

So, what else ya wanna know about the flash? :lol:


#17

Nope, I got a pile of the boards here 4" thick. That’s not the problem.

The problem is all of the ones I’ve assembled and tested were finicky and flaky. They weren’t reliable. For instance, up might work, but it would stay at up until I pressed down. My conclusion was that it was because I wasn’t guiding the light. The black housing on the flashes makes sure to protect the inside from dust and keep it the right width for the sanwa assembly, but also has slots in the inner circle, and walls between the parts. This prevents light polution and cross talk.

In other words, I need to make a similar plastic piece, and boy howdy is that a bitch. I even bought a CNC machine so I could try and fab one out of a cutting board, but the tools for drawing the part and using the mill are complicated and will take some time to learn. I have to have a prototype of some sort, because getting a mold made for injection molding and be upwards of 6k$


#18

Well crap man. I had no idea at all you were that far along. I thought it had been tabled because no one knew what opto encoder chip was being used. !!!

I’m all about owning up to my word, but dang…I didn’t expect to be handing $50 over to the very people I was trying to help…oops.

Well. How about this then, if you’re game, I’ll put the $50 up toward someone coming up with a cheaper solution to make that enclosure. It’s up to you man. :slight_smile:

Also…I owe you a DC controller that I still haven’t shipped out. I’ll get that over to you, and if you tell me how much for one of those boards, I can work on a housing here as well.


#19

It’s possible we’re making this harder than it is. The housing on your flash…does it come apart easily without damaging it? The reason I ask is that you could whip up a plaster of paris mold of the thing, and hit a hobby shop for some cheap molding plastic along with some black dye, and literally cast a housing. I don’t know how long that would take to do, but it couldn’t hurt to try.


#20

I haven’t researched it fully but it should be possible to make suitable molded prototypes, at least suitable for use. It would answer whether or not the light restriction solves the flaky problems I’ve been seeing, but that’s all it would do; I’d still have to draw up a protoype to be milled or otherwise fabbed so I could verify the measurements are perfect before having a mold made. I can’t do an exact copy of the original because my layout is different, and the through hole components Im using take up a lot of room compared to surface mount. So I’d have to make an initial Sculpy piece to make the molds with.

You could change the bounty to find a source for the receiver piece, that’d be cool. The transmitter I’m using is, as far as I can tell, the exact same one used in the original, but the matching receiver I can’t find without getting a quote for a HUGE number of them. I did find a suitable replacement, but it’s not exact; having the proper one would be a load off of my mind because they are designed to work together, by the same company. whips out folder labelled “Projects - Flash”. No joke. Let’s see. The parts are made by Everlight. The Manufacturer part number for it is “PT958”. The matching transmitter is part number IR958 and can be bought from Mouser (part no. 638-IR958-8C). The information after the dash deals with package color, and isn’t a concern. Any part manufactured by Everlight that’s “PT958” will do nicely.