Box is complete, but signals are iffy

Hi everyone. I modded a Gamestop brand PS2 controller into my first stick, but…

On the PS2’s browser screen (the one you see if you don’t have a disc inserted), I can use DOWN and X, but the rest of the buttons work.

Using a regular controller on Player 2, I tested GGXX:AC and got myself past the title screen and into Versus mode. For about say 5 minutes, I was only getting input from my box in the Button Config. Afterward, I was suddenly able to use all the buttons except for Start and Select.

I went back to the PS2’s browser menu to make sure it was working, and once again I could only use DOWN and X.

I used different types of wire (multiple strands in one, solid, etc) for my connections. Aside from solder blobs causing short-circuits and poor wiring, any pointers on how I should fix this?


get a psx controller they’re better

The PS2 pad is difficult to work with, a PSX one is way better. They come cheap from ebay.

  1. So even though I’m not using the official Sony PS2 Dualshock, because it’s both PSX and PS2 compatible, it will ultimately fail?

  2. If so (I have a spare PSX controller), is it still alright to use different sizes of both solid and stranded wire in the connections? Or should all my wire be uniform?

Different types of wire shouldnt matter.

it would help if you posted a pic of the pcb btw

also did it have some sort of silk screen on it when you extracted the pcb?

Though I’m not sure what to check for in terms of a silk screen, I don’t believe it had anything on it.

This is what I have so far. Anything look bad from what you guys can see?

sorry i meant a ribbon face

an official DS2 controller usually would have a ribbon face with the controller which also contains 1 resistor. You may need that resistor maybe for some reason (go down to Solderless Extracted PCB section)

I’m terrible at looking at the traces, but you said start and select didn’t work so that could mean that start and select have their own ground line. First remove the start and select lines and see if the directions and buttons still work. If that doesn’t do anything then i don’t know what i can tell you about the buttons not working. After that grab a paper clip and short the start with the ground it normally uses if it was a pad. Same with the select button and see if that works. If they work then you gotta solder the ground start and select to their perspective ones

It seems that UP and LEFT are stuck. I plugged in 3rd Strike and I kept jumping left.

Actually, the PCB was originally connected to the pair of vibration motors and the analog sticks. I severed those three connections; would that destroy continuity?

i read analog sticks, that would make analog stuck at up and left

although this is for piggybacking a 360 pcb, it also works marvelous for explaining what to do if you decided to take off em variable resistors(the analog sticks)

Assuming this is correct, I’m going out this afternoon to buy another one.

BUT before I do that, I want to make sure I understand this right:

Assuming I don’t want to follow that guide since it’s a different PCB…

The analog sticks should NOT be removed, and there’s a good chance that will fix the problem, right?

In addition, is it alright if I removed the vibration motors and the connections to R1/R2, L1/L2?

This is how the PCB looked before I did anything:



Dont remove the analog stick, that is the problem.

You can remove the rest however.

…well if you looked at the guide you can just grab some resistors and solder them on to the pcb. Or if you haven’t thrown them away, reattach the analog back on

this is for sure to help the up left problem but i’m not sure about the lol only x button working or w/e. It’s a good idea to fix all the problems that can easily be fixed first to see if they’ll correct the bigger problems(or make it easier at least).

unfortunatly looking at the picture you’ve taken i can’t figure out where you would add the resistors onto the pcb. It’s hard to tell/trace(not to mention i’m bad at tracing)

maybe someone else can help you trace it. Or you can grab some resistors. Get yourself to gameplay screen and start randomly testing the points on the main pcb itself(where the analog part is soldered btw). If you stopped jumping, that’s a place to solder, and if you stopped moving left, that’s another place to solder

Edit: try mixing and matching the resistors as circled on this pic, i’m not too sure of them(not to mention there’s also resistors on the analog part itself and those resistors might be important)

omg. I reconnected the analog sticks, and the joystick and main buttons are perfect!

The only things left now are START and SELECT.

I don’t get input for SELECT, but maybe thats due to the games I’m testing that don’t even use it.

The main problem is START - it works fine on menu screens leading to the main title screen (i.e. in SFAC, when selecting either 3rd S’ or Hyper SFII). But once you get to the title screen and anytime else during the game, START will soft reset the whole game. Any ideas?

Seems like imma have to quote myself

In other words

1.) DON’T daisy chain the ground for start and select, they should have their own lines

I undid the daisy chaining on START and SELECT before this; no changes. Though the main buttons are daisy chained to ground; should there be no daisy chaining in the whole thing at all? Also, I severed the connections to L1 and L2 and left them like that; would that cause any problems?

Both START and SELECT go to the same ground. Even if you don’t daisy chain them, they end up going to the same node:

(img courtesy zerolionheart51)

That doesn’t matter if the pad is common ground. If it’s truly common ground, daisy chain everything.

well if you look at the picture the ground for start and select was labeled of a different color than the others and it says “Ground Start,Select”

it might be a good idea to send a pm to zerolionheart51 as he took the picture(imma guess he also hacked it as well)

you can try plugging your stick in and shorting the connection for start and see what happens, if you have a ps2 > ps3 converter you can check you your pc what buttons does it press when you short it

heh. I just said eff it and bought the same PCB again. Removing only the casing and nothing else, I carefully rewired it and everything seems to be good. I will run more tests, and if it really is solid, I’ll finish up and post some pictures.

Thank you for all your help thus far everyone!

Done! Thank you so much once again everyone!