Brook PS3/PS4 "Fightboard" PCB Thread


I shorted the ps4 fb form the secondary socd function… have now disconnected to go back to original socd function but it has stayed in the secondary function even though I cut the wire shorting the board. How do I fix?


Never mind… wire was still making contact on the board


Please open or close ADC_Ry to select SOCD function, as below picture.


There is still chips on that board, and without proper power those chips still detect the signals and send false/ error inputs.
Providing power but not data to those chips keep them from sending junk inputs.


I was thinking about accidental home button presses in tournament etc., and was wondering if it be possible for Brook to make an “Emulate button” combination for the “Home/PS” button on these PS3/4 PCBs instead of a button itself being required, similar to how share button shortcut works on PS2>PS4 converter, or touchpad button emulation on these boards? Maybe something that has to be deliberate like X+Trainge+R2+Options? Just an idea, but it would be awesome to avoid accidental presses and also free up a button on my stick


Or you can put a On/Off Switch on the Home button’s Signal line. That all the tournament lock does on a Mad Catz Stick.
Do it on to just the ground wire the Start, Home and select buttons and you can deactivate all 3 buttons


Is that why Gummo’s Mad Catz board does that, that lock switch is actually for the Home Switch? I’ve been using it as a Mode for a PS2 PCB.


Yeah, I just thought if the firmware could do it (and it seems it can, because Brook emulates a lot of functions on their boards and converters already) there’d be really no need for a physical home button at all, and for sticks with limited holes/buttons available, the physical (currently “Home”) buttons could serve as an R3/L3, “Turbo” or maybe a touch pad button with no extra hole drilling or wire cutting necessary. Just an idea


Well Im buying one of the brook touchpads for the ps3/ps4 fightboard online since I accidentally forgot to get an extra hole drilled into my custom case and I cant help but wonder how the hell I’m going to put it on my stick. I mean I don’t want just a green board sitting on the top lol. Any ideas? Or should I just drill an extra hole on top and use a button…or is that touchpad I’m buying meant to be a replacement for commercial joysticks?


So, my previous problem was resolved with the next ps4 firmware which magically fixed everything. But this time it’s something different.

So, i use the ps3/ps4 pcb, and the random inputs started to happen again, but less frequent, and again, only on ps4. Since i was just in my hometown for two weeks, i decided to not give a damn about that and just use my ps3 for a while. But it hasn’t been updated since summer probably. Before installing the new firmware it was ok, but i needed netplay so i installed it, and after that the fightstick stopped working on the console completely. I tried plugging it into my pc, where it worked for like half a minute, and then just died, no response again. It happened like 5 times. I decided to try and update the firmware again, even though the last update was in summer and i already had that installed, but reinstalling it never seemed to make things worse. Before installing, i opened up the fightstick and made sure all the contacts were in place to not cause disconnects. But while installing, i got an error “FAILED to WRITE”. Then the fightstick became a brick. The PC only recognizes it when i plug it in while holding select and share buttons, and even then it sometimes just doesn’t. And when it does and i try to update the firmware again, i get one of two errors, either failed to write, or another one which happens earlier and it only happened two times. Sometimes the update programm doesn’t even recognize the device, it seems, giving some ID error right after i press the start button.

I need help. I already spent 140$ on this stick less than a year ago and i don’t want to get a new pcb/fightstick or switch to a pad this soon. And yeah, I’m 100% positive that the update file was the one i needed, i made sure to redownload it and to get the one i need.


Is it possible to do the cthulu trick of making start+select = home?


I plan on doing a similar thing with a board that’s has a Paradise Arcade breakout board installed, and I was wondering how I should go about doing that, considering the two holes in the board are already filled by pin headers. Should I simply solder the wire onto the pin headers, or is there some other way I could short them?


So I wired up the TP Key on my Fightboard and it isn’t doing anything in SF V AE (Steam Version) when im in Training Mode but I noticed that the r3 button bind on KB works and does reset. Im guessing TP KEY doesnt do anything on the PC Version? Maybe I’ll try to wire up the r3 button instead and see if that works. If anyone knows more info I’d appreciate a reply.


@DAyala I’m pretty sure TP Key on my Panzer works to reset training mode on PC version. AS well as the R3 key. Do you have a PS4 to test to make sure you wired up the button correctly? How do you know it’s working? Is it registering in Windows joy.cpl or whatever it’s called?


If you’re using PS4 Mode on PC you should get the button 14 light on… But if you’re just using the xbox360/xboxone mode, your TPKey wont do anything more than the back button, which is your case.

Try sticking to L3/R3 whenever you’re using xbox modes to reset the training mode


Yea its coming up as x360 mode which probably explains why, this PAS Breakout board doesnt seem to have a R3 button screw terminal so I guess Im going to have to solder straight to the board. Thanks for the replies guys.


Anyone know what the Input Delay is on this board? Is it comparable to the UFB or PS4 Boards?

EDIT: Disregard I found Teyah’s site


The methodology incorporated into the testing on that site is seriously flawed. Please forget that site exists.


Interesting, I guess what I am trying to do is find the board with the least amount of latency for PS4. I just read over his testing method which definitely seems off but im starting to wonder what the best way could be? Maybe @GOGO.Zippy can shed some light on this. Very curious to know how much input lag these boards have.


Pretty much all of the internal PCB products (including the one for which this thread is named) have essentially the same input delay. Which is to say, infinitesimal. There have been threads on this topic which discuss several of Brook’s products in depth as far as latency testing is concerned. Search is thy friend.